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Old 09-13-2008, 08:55 AM   #1
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I have an older TT with dual propane tanks on the front. The propane pressure at the appliances seems to be really low. It comes out enough to smell it, but it won't light. Is this a regulator problem? My regulator is a Marshall.
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:55 AM   #2
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I have an older TT with dual propane tanks on the front. The propane pressure at the appliances seems to be really low. It comes out enough to smell it, but it won't light. Is this a regulator problem? My regulator is a Marshall.
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Old 09-13-2008, 09:13 AM   #3
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Could be a bad regulator, mis-adjusted regulator, or a bad automatic switch over valve. Also could be a stuck OPD valve on the tank. If they're both full try opening both and switching the switch over valve to the other one.

It's a long shot but there may be a crimped gas line somewhere too.

Good luck, let us know what you find.
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Old 09-14-2008, 04:38 PM   #4
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I would first have a LPG certified technician insure your system is actually set to 11" water column gas pressure.
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Old 09-16-2008, 10:01 AM   #5
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Ditto that. If it were mine I'd have a propane guy (or RV guy certified in propane) test it.

If the regulator is that old, it might be worth replacing anyway, and your technician can set the pressure properly and check the system for leaks...
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Old 10-02-2008, 03:36 PM   #6
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Okay, I went and bought a new regulator and it says it is preset at 11"WC. I also tried several different propane tanks. I can get the pilot light to light in the hot water tank, but it only stays lit when I hold the dial open, as it says in the lighting instructions (manual hot water heater). I also replaced the thermocouple in the WH, but it still goes out. What now?
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Old 10-02-2008, 05:32 PM   #7
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ALAG321,

Are you having trouble with all LP appliances or just the water heater?

If I were troubleshooting your Pilot Model water heater problem, I would follow these steps.

1. Check for 11" W.C. LP Gas pressure at the line coming into the thermostat. The thermostat is the device that has the Pilot Light Knob.

2. I would remove the LP gas inline orifice for the pilot flame, (not the main burner orifice) and clean the orifice.

3. Once I was happy with the quality of the pilot flame, (and the flame engulfed the thermocouple) I would then verify the operation of the thermocouple and the ability of the thermocouple solenoid/magnet to hold the gas valve open.

You can apply heat to the thermocouple and see if it will generate at least 12 millivolts. Most thermocouples will generate 15-25 millivolts. Since you put a new one in, I would then take a look at the rest of the thermocouple solenoid/magnet circuit.

There is a high temperature (ECO) switch wired in series with the thermocouple and solenoid coil. The ECO switch is not visible so you have to be knowledgeable on how to test it.

The ECO is set to trip at 190 degrees and cannot be reset. (sad, but true)

Thermocouple generates a 12 millivolt output. The 12 millivolts passes through the ECO circuit and then on to the gas solenoid coil and then on to ground. If the circuit is complete, the gas valve will remain open without you holding the button down.

You could have a loose connection where the thermocouple nut attached to the ECO.
The ECO could be open.
The solenoid coil could be open.

Let me know if you need any more information.

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Old 10-03-2008, 05:54 AM   #8
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Jetcare,
You mentioned the thermocouple generates 12 millivolts and then it goes through the ECO and eventually to a ground. I am also having problems with my 12v lighting system where I suspect a ground issue because when I ground my test light to the battery and test the outlet, I have power. This leaves only a ground issue. I am now wondering if it could be related to the WH not having a good ground and therefore not allowing the gas to flow?
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:24 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ALAG321:
I have an older TT with dual propane tanks on the front. The propane pressure at the appliances seems to be really low. It comes out enough to smell it, but it won't light. Is this a regulator problem? My regulator is a Marshall. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> Do not over look the fact that when you have your tank disconnected for a time, a spider can get in the line thus cause a problem. Been there, done that! If you want to check for this... disconnect the main line from the regulator and then disconnect the line from the cook stove and use a air-compressor to blow from the kitchen side back toward the tanks. Needed is a high pressure air-compressor (90lbs. plus) This will blow out any obstruction, including bugs. I strongly caution you NOT to blow back through the regulator, it MUST be disconnected.
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:26 PM   #10
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ALAG321

I don't think the two problems could be related.

The voltage generated by the thermocouple must be high enough to energize the solenoid.

Test the thermocouple for millivolt output.
Test the ECO for continuity.
Test the solenoid coil to make sure the coil winding is not open.

All the connections must be tight.

Matt


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ALAG321:
Jetcare,
You mentioned the thermocouple generates 12 millivolts and then it goes through the ECO and eventually to a ground. I am also having problems with my 12v lighting system where I suspect a ground issue because when I ground my test light to the battery and test the outlet, I have power. This leaves only a ground issue. I am now wondering if it could be related to the WH not having a good ground and therefore not allowing the gas to flow? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 10-06-2008, 01:35 PM   #11
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How long are you purging the air out of the gas lines before you attempt to light anything? On any of my trailers it has taken at least two and sometimes more minutes before the gas flows and purges the air out.
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:47 PM   #12
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I have not purged anything. Not sure how to do that, but stove, oven, and furnace all light. How would I go about purging the lines?
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:40 PM   #13
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Let's see if we can define the problem again.
All the appliances work on LP gas but the water heater pilot won't stay light when you release the knob.
If this is the case, you have to find out why the gas valve solenoid is not staying energized.
1. Verify LP gas pressure at the water heater is 11 inches WC.
2. Is the pilot flame of good quality? Did you clean the pilot orifice?
3. Is pilot flame engulfing the thermocouple?
4. Is the thermocouple putting of the proper amount of millivoltage?
5. Is the ECO circuit intact?
6. Is the gas valve solenoid good?
7. Are connections tight?

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Old 10-14-2008, 05:19 PM   #14
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I ordered and replaced the gas valve...unit now works like a charm! Thanks for the input!
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