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Old 08-09-2011, 06:08 PM   #43
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Thanks to all who answered my questions re: black water. I have another new problem. The sink in the bathroom - the water just trickles out of the tap...any suggestions what is wrong and how do I fix it. The water pressure in the kitchen taps are fine, so not a pressure problem. Any suggestions....thanks
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:20 PM   #44
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Don't know if this will work, but it's worth a try. May have to modify the procedure with an RV setup.

How to Backflush Water Pipes
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:23 PM   #45
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Regular TP, no chemicals, LOTS of water.
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:37 PM   #46
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Thanks to all who answered my questions re: black water. I have another new problem. The sink in the bathroom - the water just trickles out of the tap...any suggestions what is wrong and how do I fix it. The water pressure in the kitchen taps are fine, so not a pressure problem. Any suggestions....thanks
You may have a screen in the faucet that is blocked. Sometimes they unscrew and other times you have to pull them out. I'd check this first.
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:03 PM   #47
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You may have a screen in the faucet that is blocked. Sometimes they unscrew and other times you have to pull them out. I'd check this first.
X2 the Aerator ( the piece the water actually comes out of has a screen and a flow restrictor) unscrew the aerator and carefully disassemble taking care to note how to reassemble or just take it to your hardware bigbox store and buy a replacement
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:18 PM   #48
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Sometimes they have a water-saver washer in them. You can sometimes remove it and get better flow and good aireration. (is that a word?)
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:49 AM   #49
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I see someone up-thread said "use chemicals to break down solids" the chemicals I've seen sold for black tanks do not do that, not a one of them.

However there are BIOLOGICALS, may be called "Waste Digesters" These are not chemicals they are.. Basicaly Yeast like bacteria.. One popular brand for home septic systems is Ridex. Watch their ads for how this stuff works.

Ridex, in fact, will work if you are parked long enough or use enough betwen dumps.

The biological products for RV's are somewhat more concentrated. How well they work I'm not sure. Some work better than others.

I recommend ots of water. and a good tank flusher.. Now "The Flusher" (TM) which the factory put in my tank is **NOT** a good flusher.

The Tornado, which with I repalced it, is better.

The RV-Twister (A toilet wand you shove down from inside with watter pressure aplied) is far better.


Depending on teh design of your toilet the Valterra Master blaster is #1 in my book

I built my own version of it which works well with MY toilet and tank.

Dump, close valve, re-fill with water via the rinse system if any is installed at least 1/2 full, dump again.


Finaly. DO NOT LEAVE THE VALVE OPEN.
Close the valve do not dump till one of two conditions is met

1: Tank at least 1/2 full (NOTE: Sensors do not work they will show full when it's empty)

2: Time to go. (Breaking camp)
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:57 AM   #50
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I see someone up-thread said "use chemicals to break down solids" the chemicals I've seen sold for black tanks do not do that, not a one of them.

...
Mr. "up-thread" here
From the Thetford website on Aqua-Kem (the product I use)

"Liquefies waste and breaks down tissue fast to prevent clogging"
"Powerful detergents clean tank walls and drain lines"

I have found the first claim to be true. With regular use, my effluent is completely liquid.
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Old 08-10-2011, 11:14 AM   #51
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I made a wand, but when I looked at the 5er I made it for, it had a dog-leg to the tank and the wand wouldn't work. Now, with my MH, I want it back. Just can't remember who I gave it to.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:49 PM   #52
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Mr. "up-thread" here
From the Thetford website on Aqua-Kem (the product I use)

"Liquefies waste and breaks down tissue fast to prevent clogging"
"Powerful detergents clean tank walls and drain lines"

I have found the first claim to be true. With regular use, my effluent is completely liquid.
and mine is too with no chemicals.
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Old 08-10-2011, 11:32 PM   #53
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After dumping I throw in about 5 gallons of water and some laundry detergent. About as much as you would use for one load of laundry. It keeps the smell down, cleans the sensors while on the move, and helps in keeping waste from sticking to the tank (similar to geo but no water softener). Works very well for me.
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:37 PM   #54
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We bought a device from camping world that hooks up to the drain valve. It hooks up a hose to it and has a separate valve i can close so that i can fill te black tank from outside. I fill and drain until it comes out clear (is partly clear plastic so you can see what is coming out - nice visuals). This really lets me clean it out thoroughly.
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Old 08-27-2011, 11:37 AM   #55
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Regarding the "Use chemicals" suggestion.

Biologicls (Watch Rid-EX commerical) will break up solids

Chemicals do not, IN fact some of them will interfere with the action of the biologicals (Which are part of what goes in the tank anyway) and preserve the solids.

I can't recommand brand of biological.. Though I will say this of Ridex.. IT's designed for LONG TERM use, and I hope you don't have it in your tanks that long.. BUT... The new Rid Ex packets just might do the job.


Normally I don't dump till I"m full or till I"m ready to "Hit the road".. I don't (So far) have a problem.
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Old 08-27-2011, 12:02 PM   #56
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Couple of points.. from MY perspective. Cuz this has been hashed to death. It's 'funny' too.. when you go to Camping World.. what is the aisle with the most people.. the poop shoot aisle. Makes ya wonder... Why? Other than to buy a new fitting or hose once in awhile.

1. Don't leave the valves open at the campgrounds.. asking for trouble.
2. When you need to take a dump.. fill the bowl at least 1/3 full.. like at home, relieve yourself and flush.. Don't skimp on water here.
3. Forget the chemicals. Some just keep odor down ( shouldn't be in a well maintained tank). Others are, as mentioned, bacteria that will digest the cr@p in the tank. In general, this is a total waste of money.. why? Because it takes TIME for the bacteria to multiply enough to be effective.. by that time you are already ready to dump. This might work very well if you have the "cone of death" in your tank and you are going to leave the rig parked for a while.

4. This MIGHT be important.. don't know form personal experience. I just got my new to me MH. Instructions say not to use AMMONIA (can't remember if it also mentioned Clorox type products) in the poly as it will deteriorate it. Now that.. could be expensive. Water is the answer. I have chemicals coming out the wazooo. Anyone can HAVE them at no cost. I no longer use them. and have no problems.

I have to admit.. I don't USUALLY dump at the park I'm leaving unless I have a lot of waste in them. I like to drive down the highway for an hour or so.. or even to the next campground and dump there.. It gives the "rockin' n rollin' " a chance to really mix the junk up for better flush. Then I add fresh water for about 2 minutes.. assuming about 5+ gallons per min.. and some laundry powder. Haven't tried Pine-Sol type products yet.. as I feel they are unnecessary.
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