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10-21-2016, 12:33 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 137
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Re-Packing Bearings
I am planning on re-packing the bearings on my 2 year old TT that has been towed ~5,000 miles.
RV Dealer is quoting me a price of $250 per axle. I haven't shopped it around, but was interested in hearing from folks here if this is in-line with their experiences.
__________________
2017 Grand Design Solitude 379FLS
2017 Ford F350 6.7L Power Stroke DRW
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10-21-2016, 02:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Monument, CO
Posts: 216
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Easy job, if you have spare time and a torque wrench you can knock it out yourself.
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2014 Fleetwood Discovery 40G -> '16 Yukon Denali
Mechanical and Electrical Engineer
"De Opresso Liber"
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10-21-2016, 03:10 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: La Verne, Calif
Posts: 3,649
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It's old school bearings and brakes. Find a buddy that knows and order pizza and beer. Always replace the seals.
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10-23-2016, 07:21 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Ontario
Posts: 128
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Price seems about right. It's a fairly easy job if you do it yourself.
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10-23-2016, 07:46 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway 4x4
It's old school bearings and brakes. Find a buddy that knows and order pizza and beer. Always replace the seals.
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x2.
It's easy but it's not simple. I wouldn't recommend trying it if you've never done it. Although you could Google it and go that route.
I've done enough of them that it's fairly easy for me. FWIW I just do one wheel at a time since my 5er is sitting on enough of a slope that I don't want to put the trailer up on jacks. Takes me about 30-40 mins per axle.
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10-23-2016, 09:03 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 982
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Repack wheel bearings
Just had ours done on our twin axle tt at a place where we have all our vehicles serviced. I like to watch the process so i know it was done right. Must replace seals and cleanliness is a must. Was charged $150 for total job. Don't like dealers that you cannot observe them doing the work. Not trusting, did they replace the seals?, repack bearings properly?, torque wheels to 100lbs?, etc..250 dollars time 2 axles is 500 dollars, crazy. I used to do it myself, now in my in 70's let someone else do it..my 2 cents FORGOT TO MENTION I CARRY A SPARE SET OF WHEEL BEARINGS, NEW SEAL AND GREASE. CHEAP INSURANCE SHOULD YOU HAVE A WHEEL PROBLEM..
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10-23-2016, 08:24 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 30
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I just had my twin axle travel trailer done, and with tax, parts and labor out the door my cost was $210.
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10-25-2016, 07:21 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 117
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One worry I have, about others doing the job, is how they lift the wheel to do the work. Most TTs do not want the unit lifted by jacking on the axle. Another thing... pretty easy to overtighten the hub if they don't do it the right way.
However, it is not an easy DIY unless you have pretty good mechanical skills. Do not expect to get it done in an hour or two if you haven't done it before. (Or for me, even if you have).
I would call this service... simple but not easy.
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10-25-2016, 08:08 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Highlands Ranch, Colorado
Posts: 313
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I found a mom and pop shop that did mine after 4 years / 8k miles and said it still had plenty of grease and still looked new for $215 total. Dealer wanted $420.
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John and Marion Bell
Highlands Ranch, Colorado
2013 Keystone Bullet 248RKS, 2013 Ram 1500
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10-25-2016, 01:17 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 137
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Thanks to all for the advice. On the mechanical scale of 1 to 10, I am a 5. I will do the brake pads for the disc brakes on my car, but this intimidates me, not to mention, I don't have a great place to work on the TT.
All that said, think I will pay to get this done, but I will shop it around. Some great questions to ask related to replacing the seals, torquing, and the source for the bearings.
__________________
2017 Grand Design Solitude 379FLS
2017 Ford F350 6.7L Power Stroke DRW
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10-25-2016, 02:21 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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One of my least favorite jobs on any vehicle but it is important that it be done correctly. If you can find a corner garage and an 'old timer', you might be dollars and skill sets ahead of many RV shop mechanics. It is dirty, time consuming and does take a middling amount of skills.
Not only do the bearings need to be repacked 100% with all new grease, they first need to be thoroughly cleaned of that old and potentially incompatibility with any fresh grease and inspected for signs of abnormal wear, over heating and any other damage. While apart, the brake system needs to be fully inspected with the brake shoes, drums and magnets checked. Even if your trailer is equipped with E-Z Lube hubs (which I dislike and refuse to use on our 5er), the bearings need to be checked and repacked at least every 12K miles and/or every couple years.
Good luck finding someone reasonable. $250 per axle isn't. For a complete 4 wheel job, it might be $250 or so in your area. Locally, RV shops are $100-110/hour and it's about a 2, and maybe a bit more, hour job by the time the trailer is jacked up, wheels removed and everything disassembled, cleaned, inspected then reassembled with fresh grease, new seals and back on the ground.
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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10-25-2016, 09:47 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: La Verne, Calif
Posts: 3,649
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I wish all things were this easy.
Jack up wheel.
Remove wheel
Remove dust cap.
Remove carter pin.
Remove 1 nut.
Remove drum
Inspect and clean brakes and spindle
Remove inner seal and clean inside drum and bearings
Pack bearings, install new seal, re assemble.
By the time you do the 4th one you can do it with your eyes closed.
Please don't tell me of the steps you do that are different, we all do it different. Yes, I did shorten up the instructions.
If I get the drum off and everything looks clean and the grease still looks new, I just inspect a little and repack and re assemble. It's not by the book but I like to live life on the edge. I have never had a problem with one I have done.
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10-26-2016, 04:39 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway 4x4
I wish all things were this easy.
Jack up wheel.
Remove wheel
Remove dust cap.
Remove carter pin.
Remove 1 nut.
Remove drum
Inspect and clean brakes and spindle
Remove inner seal and clean inside drum and bearings
Pack bearings, install new seal, re assemble.
By the time you do the 4th one you can do it with your eyes closed.
Please don't tell me of the steps you do that are different, we all do it different. Yes, I did shorten up the instructions.
If I get the drum off and everything looks clean and the grease still looks new, I just inspect a little and repack and re assemble. It's not by the book but I like to live life on the edge. I have never had a problem with one I have done.
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You did great until you got to one of the most important steps and that's reassembly. That large spindle nut needs to be snugged down then backed off at least one flat to install the cotter pin. Like you said, easy but really a grungy job. Living on the edge of wheel bearings potential life is a personal choice. I don't as static weight on a particular wheel can be 4000 pounds or possibly more on some of today's monster size 5ers. Dynamic load --- lots more and with only a few thousandths of an inch between safe driving and failure
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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10-26-2016, 06:21 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
That large spindle nut needs to be snugged down then backed off at least one flat to install the cotter pin.
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That's too much, see page 56: http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...d_Bearings.pdf
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