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Old 10-21-2016, 12:33 PM   #1
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Re-Packing Bearings

I am planning on re-packing the bearings on my 2 year old TT that has been towed ~5,000 miles.

RV Dealer is quoting me a price of $250 per axle. I haven't shopped it around, but was interested in hearing from folks here if this is in-line with their experiences.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:21 PM   #2
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Easy job, if you have spare time and a torque wrench you can knock it out yourself.
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:10 PM   #3
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It's old school bearings and brakes. Find a buddy that knows and order pizza and beer. Always replace the seals.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:21 AM   #4
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Price seems about right. It's a fairly easy job if you do it yourself.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:46 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Highway 4x4 View Post
It's old school bearings and brakes. Find a buddy that knows and order pizza and beer. Always replace the seals.
x2.
It's easy but it's not simple. I wouldn't recommend trying it if you've never done it. Although you could Google it and go that route.
I've done enough of them that it's fairly easy for me. FWIW I just do one wheel at a time since my 5er is sitting on enough of a slope that I don't want to put the trailer up on jacks. Takes me about 30-40 mins per axle.
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Old 10-23-2016, 09:03 AM   #6
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Repack wheel bearings

Just had ours done on our twin axle tt at a place where we have all our vehicles serviced. I like to watch the process so i know it was done right. Must replace seals and cleanliness is a must. Was charged $150 for total job. Don't like dealers that you cannot observe them doing the work. Not trusting, did they replace the seals?, repack bearings properly?, torque wheels to 100lbs?, etc..250 dollars time 2 axles is 500 dollars, crazy. I used to do it myself, now in my in 70's let someone else do it..my 2 cents FORGOT TO MENTION I CARRY A SPARE SET OF WHEEL BEARINGS, NEW SEAL AND GREASE. CHEAP INSURANCE SHOULD YOU HAVE A WHEEL PROBLEM..
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:24 PM   #7
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I just had my twin axle travel trailer done, and with tax, parts and labor out the door my cost was $210.
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:21 AM   #8
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One worry I have, about others doing the job, is how they lift the wheel to do the work. Most TTs do not want the unit lifted by jacking on the axle. Another thing... pretty easy to overtighten the hub if they don't do it the right way.
However, it is not an easy DIY unless you have pretty good mechanical skills. Do not expect to get it done in an hour or two if you haven't done it before. (Or for me, even if you have).
I would call this service... simple but not easy.
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:08 AM   #9
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I found a mom and pop shop that did mine after 4 years / 8k miles and said it still had plenty of grease and still looked new for $215 total. Dealer wanted $420.
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Old 10-25-2016, 01:17 PM   #10
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Thanks to all for the advice. On the mechanical scale of 1 to 10, I am a 5. I will do the brake pads for the disc brakes on my car, but this intimidates me, not to mention, I don't have a great place to work on the TT.

All that said, think I will pay to get this done, but I will shop it around. Some great questions to ask related to replacing the seals, torquing, and the source for the bearings.
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:21 PM   #11
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One of my least favorite jobs on any vehicle but it is important that it be done correctly. If you can find a corner garage and an 'old timer', you might be dollars and skill sets ahead of many RV shop mechanics. It is dirty, time consuming and does take a middling amount of skills.

Not only do the bearings need to be repacked 100% with all new grease, they first need to be thoroughly cleaned of that old and potentially incompatibility with any fresh grease and inspected for signs of abnormal wear, over heating and any other damage. While apart, the brake system needs to be fully inspected with the brake shoes, drums and magnets checked. Even if your trailer is equipped with E-Z Lube hubs (which I dislike and refuse to use on our 5er), the bearings need to be checked and repacked at least every 12K miles and/or every couple years.

Good luck finding someone reasonable. $250 per axle isn't. For a complete 4 wheel job, it might be $250 or so in your area. Locally, RV shops are $100-110/hour and it's about a 2, and maybe a bit more, hour job by the time the trailer is jacked up, wheels removed and everything disassembled, cleaned, inspected then reassembled with fresh grease, new seals and back on the ground.
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:47 PM   #12
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I wish all things were this easy.
Jack up wheel.
Remove wheel
Remove dust cap.
Remove carter pin.
Remove 1 nut.
Remove drum
Inspect and clean brakes and spindle
Remove inner seal and clean inside drum and bearings
Pack bearings, install new seal, re assemble.
By the time you do the 4th one you can do it with your eyes closed.
Please don't tell me of the steps you do that are different, we all do it different. Yes, I did shorten up the instructions.
If I get the drum off and everything looks clean and the grease still looks new, I just inspect a little and repack and re assemble. It's not by the book but I like to live life on the edge. I have never had a problem with one I have done.
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway 4x4 View Post
I wish all things were this easy.
Jack up wheel.
Remove wheel
Remove dust cap.
Remove carter pin.
Remove 1 nut.
Remove drum
Inspect and clean brakes and spindle
Remove inner seal and clean inside drum and bearings
Pack bearings, install new seal, re assemble.
By the time you do the 4th one you can do it with your eyes closed.
Please don't tell me of the steps you do that are different, we all do it different. Yes, I did shorten up the instructions.
If I get the drum off and everything looks clean and the grease still looks new, I just inspect a little and repack and re assemble. It's not by the book but I like to live life on the edge. I have never had a problem with one I have done.
You did great until you got to one of the most important steps and that's reassembly. That large spindle nut needs to be snugged down then backed off at least one flat to install the cotter pin. Like you said, easy but really a grungy job. Living on the edge of wheel bearings potential life is a personal choice. I don't as static weight on a particular wheel can be 4000 pounds or possibly more on some of today's monster size 5ers. Dynamic load --- lots more and with only a few thousandths of an inch between safe driving and failure
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Old 10-26-2016, 06:21 AM   #14
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That large spindle nut needs to be snugged down then backed off at least one flat to install the cotter pin.
That's too much, see page 56: http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...d_Bearings.pdf
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