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Old 10-11-2016, 01:27 PM   #1
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Rear passenger corner roof leak

Hi there, I recently purchased a 29 foot 2000 Fleetwood Terry travel trailer, model 27x. Love it so far, lots to still learn. Camping this past weekend my wife noticed condensation and then water dripping into upper rear bunk where my daughter sleeps. She was able to push her finger through the ceiling (not good.)

I've tackled a roof rebuild on a 1989 Coleman Popup but this is a different animal to me.

Someone mentioned to get the roof re-coated, it would take care of the leaks.

I'm sure there is some truth to this, the big question is how bad is the damage.

Here are a few pictures. Should i start with Dicor self leveling RV caulk?

Thank you.

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Old 10-11-2016, 04:38 PM   #2
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I'd start with a heat gun on low setting to soften the old caulk, and a plastic scraper to remove as much of the old, dried out caulk. Is the roof EDPM or something else? Dicor self-leveling caulk would be the best to replace the old caulk.
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Old 10-17-2016, 04:42 PM   #3
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Thanks BFlinn, I just removed old caulk, upon further inspection, it seems the rubber roof has shrunk/pulled away from the entire rear seam (sorry if lingo is incorrect). Should I just put a ton of dicor on or is this bigger than that? Getting ready to add pictures for clarity.
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Old 10-17-2016, 04:47 PM   #4
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:00 PM   #5
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Caulk can hide a lot of ugly, can't it?? Now it looks like you need some EternaBond Tape to make all that ugly hidden and waterproof for a long time. You'll probably want the black tape, perhaps 6" wide. Then use the Dicor self--leveling caulk along seam at the end cap and tape.
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Old 10-17-2016, 06:45 PM   #6
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You rock my friend, thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:37 AM   #7
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FYI to anyone who sees this thread, you can buy Eternabond from ebay by the foot so you don't have to buy a 50 foot roll for $80. I paid 25 for 10 feet.
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:18 PM   #8
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Eternabond is the only choice without major replacement of the area. But you need to do really good cleanup of loose stuff or the E won't stick. Get a good base, then apply the E.
And, having a partial roll to keep on hand has proven to be a good deal for me at various times, and giving some to friends to use.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:32 PM   #9
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Thanks Wingnut60, is there something recommended for cleaning the loose stuff or is it just scraping and sweeping it? Great info everyone.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:48 PM   #10
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You might want to look into this problem a little more before you try sealing it up. If your wife could push her finger through the ceiling, you have some rot, and possibly mold issues, you should address before just resealing the roof.
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:29 PM   #11
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does it not look like most of that roof material is not glued down anymore?
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:59 PM   #12
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Wanted to close this with an update and say thanks, I was trying to beat the rain so I didn't take pics. I did cut 4" along the entire width of the roof (rubber only), replaced a 4.5 inch by 5 inch piece of rot in the passenger corner using liquid nails and deck screws to hold it down. I then ran the 6 inch piece of Eternabond along the width of the roof, overlapping the old rubber roof by 2 inches. Finally I used Dicor to caulk the entire seam and end pieces. It doesn't look pretty per second but it's waterproofed. I bought a few more years hopefully and wanted to say thanks. If I get ambitious I will pull the ladder out and take pics.
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