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Old 09-13-2015, 05:00 AM   #1
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Refrigerator Removal

My tech guy says my trailer frige is finished and it would cost more to fix it than buy a new one. A new one is not an option so I'm going to get a small household fridge. My question is: before I start tearing the old one out and possibly doing some serious damage, does the frige have any value ? also, is it as simple to remove as locking off the gas line and pulling the 110 plug ? I'm a bit nervous as this is a 'no turning back situation' - any suggestions would be appreciated....
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Old 09-13-2015, 06:04 AM   #2
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My Buddy put a fridge in from Lowes in a Jazz trailer what we did was just buy a cap and seal off propane. Disconnect wires undo screws in back around fridge door jam pull her out. Had to re trim the opening.
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:49 AM   #3
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Fix your refrigerator for free

On two occasions in over forty years of RVing, I've "fixed" refrigerators I had been told were dead. Read on - this is NOT rocket science! From what I've learned over the years, if your RV frige. is leaking a yellow substance (the coolant), which appears as yellow stains at the bottom and on the coils, then yep - it's a goner. You can replace the cooling unit, but they usually cost nearly as much as a whole new unit. SOMEWHERE on IRV2, there was a referral made to a Omish company that builds cooling units that were said to be far superior to the original Dometic or Norcold units. If I see it again, I'll post it here.
What happens, is that the ammonia-type coolant crystalizes inside the cooling coil, preventing circulation of the fluid. The freezer portion worked fine on the last one, but very little cool in the refrig. portion. On my first one, nothing worked (I parked on a hill and left the refrigerator running - BAD IDEA!!!)
Here's "The Free Fix": get a piece of wood or a steel rod about 18" long (I used rebar) and tap every section of coil you can reach. Don't dent it, but give it a thorough whacking over every it of the coil you can reach! This can often break up the crystals and allow the coolant to flow properly. My refrig. now runs at 5 degrees on the coldest setting. Leave the unit running at the max cold setting - and cross your fingers - to flush any crystals through the system. I suspect they may dissolve. This "fix" has worked two out of two times for me. Good Luck!
Gary
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:02 AM   #4
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Thanks for advice - I searched several threads related to refrigerators and the overall advice was a preference for household frig. Safer,more reliable,more efficient.cheaper, etc . I don't plan any boondocking and I feel more comfortable with just plugging in.
So will just unscrew and disconnect everything I can and see what happens.
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:32 AM   #5
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I have installed the Amish unit and love it. Stays cold and ice cream is never a problem. It has a 5 year warrantee, and on the hottest days everything is cold. That being said, many that installed the home unit are as happy. It all depends on what your needs are. I wanted it working and if and when I traded no issues. In your case if your need is just to have a cold unit and cost is a issue by all means go for it as long as it serves your needs. Make sure there is no gas leaks after disconnecting, other than that your golden. Good luck.
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Old 09-14-2015, 11:27 PM   #6
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Bruce, Though I got mine running correctly, PLEASE give us all the contact information for "the Amish unit" you installed! I read about it the other day, but failed to document it!
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Old 09-14-2015, 11:36 PM   #7
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In the '02 Dutch Star we had I installed the Amish cooling unit sold by David Force. Worked well but I was running on borrowed time as the seals were breaking and could not be replaced without replacing the doors too. It was working OK but not getting as cold as it should have.
We repaired it the easy but costly way...replaced the whole motorhome!
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:58 AM   #8
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Gary, I as well, contacted David Force, Pines RV refrigeration. If you search, much has been written here, or google you'll find a contact phone number. As Mr D mentioned if the door seals are bad you cannot get replacements so cooling can be a issue. I replaced doors from a later coach which went with a residential unit. The replacement of the cooling unit was easy but tight getting it out and back in. I'm happy with the results. But as I mentioned either choice will get you a cold refrigerator. It all depends on your needs and how you intend to travel. I like the gas option going down the road without the extra cost and expense of residential travel, atleast for the moment. Glad to see your's is working.
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Old 09-16-2015, 03:32 PM   #9
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Bruce, Thank you for your reply! I have an idea for you. For nearly 40 years, I always traveled with our "fridge" running on propane - even though I was concerned about the explosion hazard, should I have a collision and rupture a propane line. Last year, it finally dawned on me (I'm NOT very good, but I AM slow!), I have an inverter, the chassis engine's alternator charges the house batteries as I drive, therefore I can run the "fridge" in 110V power, via the inverter - and it costs nothing to do so! Hope you have an inverter!
Gary
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:39 PM   #10
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That is what the new units with residential units are doing. I have 2 batteries, and the feed from my truck supplying the refigerator inverter while traveling. Propane is now shut off!
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