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Old 01-28-2005, 11:30 AM   #1
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Has anyone had any experience (preferably successes, but failures are always welcome) with replacing the valving on the Gray/Black dump valves -- specifically on the 7270 model (I don't think they make these narrow models anymore) but most of their TTs have a similar valving configuration.

The valving (and tankage) appears to be concealed within the seald undercarriage so you don't have ready/direct access to the actual plumbing and valving. A single outfall pipe extends through the sealed undercarriage, and the gray and black tank dump levers operate the concealed valving via some cabled mechanism.

Overall I love the rig, but this particular "feature" is most dissappointing. Naturally, I am currently stuck with a full black tank that refuses to dump so I must have the rig serviced. I would like to have a better valve system put in but I don't know what (if any) my options are.

My thanks in advance to an outstanding forum and RVing community.

NK
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:30 AM   #2
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Has anyone had any experience (preferably successes, but failures are always welcome) with replacing the valving on the Gray/Black dump valves -- specifically on the 7270 model (I don't think they make these narrow models anymore) but most of their TTs have a similar valving configuration.

The valving (and tankage) appears to be concealed within the seald undercarriage so you don't have ready/direct access to the actual plumbing and valving. A single outfall pipe extends through the sealed undercarriage, and the gray and black tank dump levers operate the concealed valving via some cabled mechanism.

Overall I love the rig, but this particular "feature" is most dissappointing. Naturally, I am currently stuck with a full black tank that refuses to dump so I must have the rig serviced. I would like to have a better valve system put in but I don't know what (if any) my options are.

My thanks in advance to an outstanding forum and RVing community.

NK
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Old 01-31-2005, 05:58 AM   #3
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I have changed my black tank valve once. This was on a MH and the valves were in the open inside the compartment. No problem, right? I cleaned the tank three times and I thought it was good and clean, but when I pulled the valve and the pipe was open a few surprises flowed out. So be ready.

I don't know what will be involved in getting to your valves, but here's an idea. You don't want to work on those valves with a full tank so maybe you could check with a septic tank cleaning company or a porti-pottie company to have a truck come by and suck the black tank dry before you start. Two gallons are a lot easer to deal with than forty!

Jim
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Old 01-31-2005, 11:53 AM   #4
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Cold Iron:
...You don't want to work on those valves with a full tank so maybe you could check with a septic tank cleaning company or a porti-pottie company to have a truck come by and suck the black tank dry before you start. Two gallons are a lot easer to deal with than forty!

Jim <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Amen to that! I'll start calling around to find a septic service that can provide me with a vac truck. That'll at least make it easier to figure out what to do next. I've got a close friend that has a similar Trail-Lite model and is having the same problem with valving/plumbing. We'll probably just have to tow em' in to Camping World to be serviced. I don't seem to have the time and tools necessary to get into the sealed undercarriage to get at the valvs.

Thanks for your reply and advice, CI.
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Old 02-02-2005, 11:00 AM   #5
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we choose to pay someone to replace ours for 100.00 better than cleaning the mess
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Old 02-02-2005, 05:19 PM   #6
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There should be a removeable cover that allows access to the valves from the underbelly. If not, they should be accessible from within a compartment. If not the whole underbelly cover would need to be removed (poor design). The valves operate with cables.

Once the valves are accessed you will may find that the cable has pulled out from the valve mechanism. Assuming you are hooked up to a sewer, you can pull the valve open with your fingers.
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Old 02-20-2005, 12:04 PM   #7
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I replaced the gray and black tank valves last summer. It was about a 30 minute job. There were 8 bolts to remove and replace. Ours is on a TT and was easily reached.

I flushed our tanks 2 or 3 times first and kept a 5 gal. bucket under the pipes when I removed the valves. I ordered the new valves from Camping World. I think the cost was around $25 for both valves.

Good luck.

Frank
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Old 03-01-2005, 07:03 AM   #8
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Hi NK
Kind of late with this reply....
I have changed a dump valve..
You have to remove the bottom panel , one near the dump handles.
Remove the screws from the rails , pull the rails down...Search for a few more screws in the putty , just holds the bottom panel in place.
Don't mix up these screws with the rail screws which are a different size..
It is possible to remove just one panel, remove a few screws on the panels on either side and let them hang down alittle.
The panels are interlocked but are workable.
Once the panel is removed , you will see the dump valve...
Follow the manufactures instructions when installing the new cable ( my new valve came with a new cable assy)...Most of the problems with these dump valves is the cable , not cut to the correct lenght , causes the cable to bind and break..
Really need two people to reinstall the panel, very difficult to hold the panel in place.
I think electric valves would be the answer , has anyone tried to install them in a TL..
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:20 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NoKarma4U:
Has anyone had any experience (preferably successes, but failures are always welcome) with replacing the valving on the Gray/Black dump valves -- specifically on the 7270 model (I don't think they make these narrow models anymore) but most of their TTs have a similar valving configuration.

The valving (and tankage) appears to be concealed within the seald undercarriage so you don't have ready/direct access to the actual plumbing and valving. A single outfall pipe extends through the sealed undercarriage, and the gray and black tank dump levers operate the concealed valving via some cabled mechanism.

Overall I love the rig, but this particular "feature" is most dissappointing. Naturally, I am currently stuck with a full black tank that refuses to dump so I must have the rig serviced. I would like to have a better valve system put in but I don't know what (if any) my options are.

My thanks in advance to an outstanding forum and RVing community.

NK </div></BLOCKQUOTE>If you can Pour in the toilet a heavy dose of Rid X and let stand a few days .You could use any other Enzymes they all work the same to reduce any thing in the tank to just water as all mater will be digested and gas vented to the stack and out the roof. as to the under side make a small opening to see what you have ,most likely valves are just the other side of the frame and rod controlling the valve is easy to see how to attach ,valve removal and new valve kit easy to install .water in tank could be siphoned by filling hose with water plug end of hose may take two people fill and plug other end with your thumb.Then inserted in the boal down to the bottom of the tank hose must be held high and filled with water slow go use a smaller end hose to insert to siphon hose for filling when full plug end with finger, lower the hose and unplug to start flow into an tank or drain or what ever you have open hole ,septic tank drain clean out etc. after tank is as empty cut or drill pipe to remove all water and repair. Make cut with metal cutter to give you room to work ,get a sheet of aluminum at least two inches all around larger to screw with metal self tap short and use some metal tape to cover ends of cover then use plenty of caulk your choice .I had to fix valves but tank was still draining . But I would have drained it like as above. Wish you luck .Skipper entry level over fifty years.
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:32 PM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by skipper:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NoKarma4U:
Has anyone had any experience (preferably successes, but failures are always welcome) with replacing the valving on the Gray/Black dump valves -- specifically on the 7270 model (I don't think they make these narrow models anymore) but most of their TTs have a similar valving configuration.

The valving (and tankage) appears to be concealed within the seald undercarriage so you don't have ready/direct access to the actual plumbing and valving. A single outfall pipe extends through the sealed undercarriage, and the gray and black tank dump levers operate the concealed valving via some cabled mechanism.

Overall I love the rig, but this particular "feature" is most dissappointing. Naturally, I am currently stuck with a full black tank that refuses to dump so I must have the rig serviced. I would like to have a better valve system put in but I don't know what (if any) my options are.

My thanks in advance to an outstanding forum and RVing community.

NK </div></BLOCKQUOTE>If you can Pour in the toilet a heavy dose of Rid X and let stand a few days .You could use any other Enzymes they all work the same to reduce any thing in the tank to just water as all mater will be digested and gas vented to the stack and out the roof. as to the under side make a small opening to see what you have ,most likely valves are just the other side of the frame and rod controlling the valve is easy to see how to attach ,valve removal and new valve kit easy to install .water in tank could be siphoned by filling hose with water inserted in the boal down to the bottom of the tank hose must be held high and filled with water slow go use a smaller end hose to insert to siphon hose for filling when full plug end lower the hose and unplug to start flow into an tank or drain or what ever you have open hole ,septic tank drain clean out etc. after tank is as empty cut or drill pipe to remove all water and repair. Make cut with metal cutter to give you room to work ,get a sheet of aluminum at least two inches all around larger to screw with metal self tap short and use some metal tape to cover ends of cover then use plenty of caulk your choice .I had to fix valves but tank was still draining . But I would have drained it like as above. Wish you luck .Skipper entry level over fifty years. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I have never seen a cable on a dunp valve how can you push a cable ? every one of this type I have seen has a rod connected ot the valve rod with a cotter pin or wire keeper ,think about it its like pushing a string. Skipper entry level over fifty years.
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:11 AM   #11
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Our inlaws had a Jayco with the remote valve setup. It had it's tanks covered, out of sight, and more importantly for them, heated for winter. There was a cable similar to a lawnmower throttle cable for dumping. Very stiff, that would allow yout to push and pull.

You may not need to replace your valves. The cable came undone from thier valves once, and all we had to do was use a cordless drill to unscrew about 5 screws, didn't even take the entire cover off, then reach up in there and snap it back on.

Hopefully it's not too late for this reply and you can try this. It was about a 3 minute task.
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:37 AM   #12
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Cable Observation.....
I looked at the old dump valve with cable and housing...
My term " CABLE " is wrong......
There is a rod inside the housing.....

Next time I change this valve , I am going to try an electric dump valve from CW....
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:53 AM   #13
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Now that you mention it, it was a rod. The handle had been unscrewed, and the rod was put in it's palce. Was your rod loose, or was your valve bad?
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