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Old 09-25-2014, 09:01 AM   #1
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Resealing the seals

We purchased our 2013 Timber Ridge 260RLS in May of this year. Early next spring I would like to clean and reseal all the seals around the windows and pull out. I'm looking for ideas on how to do this correctly as well as what products to use. Thanking everyone in advance for their input.
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:00 PM   #2
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I am going to contact ORV and see if they have something on this. I don't recall any specifics in the owners manual about this. A video on their websuite would be nice. My guess would be that you're looking for any cracks and pealing in the sealant.
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Old 09-25-2014, 02:45 PM   #3
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Shouldn't have to. The windows(unless leaking) are sealed with a ribbon(s) of Buytl Caulking which doesn't dry out(stays flexible) for many, many decades.

The Butyl Caulking comes in rolls that have different widths, but can be purchased at most any RV Center that sells RV products.

To fill different depths(after running one full layer down as base around perimeter), you just stack shorter pieces of the caulking on top of previous layer to get the depth you need. What the object doesn't need when tightening down screws/bolts will squeeze out, and you just remove to clean up and reuse elsewhere when needed.
I like using a small plastic spatula as it won't cut through paint/decals for clean sharp edges.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kayakcrazy View Post
We purchased our 2013 Timber Ridge 260RLS in May of this year. Early next spring I would like to clean and reseal all the seals around the windows and pull out. I'm looking for ideas on how to do this correctly as well as what products to use. Thanking everyone in advance for their input.
So glad you asked. My husband and I recently visited the ORV plant and this is what we learned. Dave had the person who seals their new trailers demonstrate the sealing process. First she cleaned the seal area with rubbing alcohol (she applied from plastic spray bottle) wiping off any dirt/debris with a rag. Then she used a caulk gun to squeeze out a thin bead of Geocel 2300 MHRV vehicle body sealant onto the the seal area. She then sprayed the seal with a detergent like Dawn dish washing detergent using a second spray bottle, she also sprayed a generous amount of detergent on her hands before running her thumb, not thumb nail, along the seal line. This removed excess sealant which did not stick to her hands because of the detergent coating her hands. She wiped the excess sealant onto a rag. Finally she ran the flat surface of her finger along the seal line to smooth it out. We were told that this process should be done at least yearly on all area with seals. Seals should be checked every 3-6 months. We were reminded to seal our windows only at the top so as not to seal the windows closed. Dave said this could save us thousands because if water gets into wall panels, the replacement cost is $3000 to $5000. He also was surprised we did not get this info in our walk through. I hope this helps.
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:42 PM   #5
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Resealng the seals

Note for the Canadians reading this - you may not be able to find Geocel 2300 MHRV in Canada. After many hours on the phone and Internet it seems we have been supplied a product called ProFlex Geocel. It's suppose to be the same product. Thank you Likes2Camp for the detailed instructions.
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Old 09-26-2014, 06:34 PM   #6
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I don't understand these statements from OutdoorsRV. (They told me the same thing earlier this year). I owned an Arctic Fox for 9 years and resealed nothing. Surely these seals will last several years.

If I have to do annual resealing of any seal on my rig I'll dump it at the first opportunity!

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Old 09-26-2014, 06:52 PM   #7
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I have a Northwood Fox Mountain 5th wheel, so should be made the same. I'm assuming that all exterior windows, door, vents and grills have the butyl tape behind them. I'm in the process of checking my caulk on the roof as well as every other penetration. Some of the windows are so tight to the wall that there's virtually no way to get any caulk in the gap.

Are you saying there's no need to apply caulk? My 5'er is in it's second season and does show some cracking in the caulking on the roof. The sides look fine. I'm doing the roof caulk this weekend.

I've always wondered why we need to caulk so often since there's butyl tape behind the window trims. I suppose if they messed up the butyl then you could have an issue. Hard to take it for granted when you can see the butyl.
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:20 PM   #8
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Dave told me the same thing when I showed him the trim that runs horizontally on both sides of the trailer that were coming loose (after being resealed by the dealer two months prior). I pointed out to him that this trailer was 9 months old and this was the second time the seals were coming loose, Dave's answer was it was a common issue. I check the seals on our trailer often but for the factory to say they should be resealed every year (and sadly it appears some will need it more often) is not a testament to the materials used & workmanship.
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:45 PM   #9
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Dave told me the same thing when I showed him the trim that runs horizontally on both sides of the trailer that were coming loose (after being resealed by the dealer two months prior). I pointed out to him that this trailer was 9 months old and this was the second time the seals were coming loose, Dave's answer was it was a common issue. I check the seals on our trailer often but for the factory to say they should be resealed every year (and sadly it appears some will need it more often) is not a testament to the materials used & workmanship.
Which horizontal trim? My trim on the driver's side forward lower skirt is coming loose, which is apparently part of the skirt. Currently at the dealer for repairs. The have told me that they ordered a new part? (Skirt?)
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:19 AM   #10
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I can expand a little more on why a manufacture will tell you every three months..it's a way they can get out of paying for their failure to do quality control..
My 2014 evergreen I-Go was nine months old and I noticed ripples under the fiberglass laminate and had it checked ...water was seeping around the trim and making the wood swell...the trim was pulled by a dealer close by and I was told the trim had only been sealed half way down with the sealer.. They called Evergreen and explained what was going on for warranty reimbursement... Evergreen said it was a maintenance issue and would not pay a dime...So it's a cop out to get away from their poor quality control at Evergreen anyway..
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:29 PM   #11
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Which horizontal trim? My trim on the driver's side forward lower skirt is coming loose, which is apparently part of the skirt. Currently at the dealer for repairs. The have told me that they ordered a new part? (Skirt?)
Looking at your picture I think we are talking about the same trim, maybe a better term would be "moulding"? The moulding on our trailer has separated in several places, several inches long. This is not a matter of just resealing the edge, the trim actually "bubbles up" away from the side. I did know this strip was to seal the lower skirt. Dave at ORV did not seem concerned, said it was due to the contraction of the material (heat, cold & flex of the trailer) no mention it could cause any issues. Our trailer has been at La Grande since Aug. 18th, hope to get it back this week. I will ask Dave at ORV about this issue, especially since it has been on going problem.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:41 PM   #12
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I can expand a little more on why a manufacture will tell you every three months..it's a way they can get out of paying for their failure to do quality control..
My 2014 evergreen I-Go was nine months old and I noticed ripples under the fiberglass laminate and had it checked ...water was seeping around the trim and making the wood swell...the trim was pulled by a dealer close by and I was told the trim had only been sealed half way down with the sealer.. They called Evergreen and explained what was going on for warranty reimbursement... Evergreen said it was a maintenance issue and would not pay a dime...So it's a cop out to get away from their poor quality control at Evergreen anyway..
That was the inference I got, it was a maintenance issue, but that they would take care of it this time. So far we have experienced a poor workmanship & quality control on our trailer, We hope this time around (warranty repairs) the workmanship & quality control is better.
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:35 AM   #13
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Looking at your picture I think we are talking about the same trim, maybe a better term would be "moulding"? The moulding on our trailer has separated in several places, several inches long. This is not a matter of just resealing the edge, the trim actually "bubbles up" away from the side. I did know this strip was to seal the lower skirt. Dave at ORV did not seem concerned, said it was due to the contraction of the material (heat, cold & flex of the trailer) no mention it could cause any issues. Our trailer has been at La Grande since Aug. 18th, hope to get it back this week. I will ask Dave at ORV about this issue, especially since it has been on going problem.
My trailer was built in 02/14 (winter). It wasn't there when I picked the trailer up in May. I believe that it was installed during a very cold period in Oregon. The heat in the high desert in July reached 108+ degrees. Plus that side gets full sun in storage.
I believe it shouldn't have come loose, but it did.

Note: I did not look at how it was attached. After warranty, I'll just use some decorative screws to reattach it and run a bead of caulk across the top. The curb side skirt wrinkles a lot in the heat, but straightens out in the cool of the morning.
Hope this helps.
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