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Old 02-26-2016, 10:32 AM   #15
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BTW, you can get this on Amazon for $250.00 I don't work with the guy or anything like that. But it does work.
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:01 AM   #16
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Since I started full timing, I have noticed that many things can affect the amount of shaking of the trailer from one day to the next.

First thing I noticed with the "scissor" type stabilizing jacks is the they can loosen after a day or three. Maybe they just get thousands of tiny little wiggles that back the main screw off a little bit. Other times the ground under the jacks compressed and the pressure on the jacks was reduced.

In both cases, taking a hand tool like the wrench that come with my BAL X-Chocks to tighten them back up resolves the problem until the reduced pressure comes back again.

I also bought an eight foot long pressure treated 2x6 and had it cut into four equal pieces. I place those under the jack feet in order to spread out the pressure. This is especially helpful on soft(er) ground, but I still use them even on harder ground.

I use the BAL X-Chocks two help reduce shaking and to help prevent theft. They might be truly worthless for preventing theft, but I boondock a lot, and want to make a first impression on any sketchy folks that they will find easier pickings somewhere else. They do work well for reducing shaking as they hold the tires tight and they simply cannot roll any further than the suspension system will allow them with the wheels locked up.

I hope some of that helps you. You can't get rid of all of it, but you can cut out quite a bit of it.
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Old 02-26-2016, 02:03 PM   #17
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I use X-Chocks on the wheels and steady-fast/jt strong arm type stabilizers on the leveling jacks. These two together have taken almost all shake out of the trailer.
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Old 02-26-2016, 10:03 PM   #18
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How do you use the
steadyfast system with scissor jacks
I have a shaky
starcraft launce that i need to steady
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Old 02-27-2016, 02:11 AM   #19
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Look at his website. Mounting to scissor jacks is easy. What is fun is once someone at the trailer park asks about the struts you can reach down and loosen the clamp and push on your trailer and show them how much it moves. Then tighten the clamp and have them try to move the trailer. It's like a light bulb goes on. They always ask where I got it.
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Old 02-27-2016, 10:26 AM   #20
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I DIY'd my own for our TT and current 5th wheel. Took some time but I'm retired and love tinkering with stuff.
Front

Rear
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Old 02-27-2016, 10:32 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Bob1340 View Post
LOL We had the same issue with our 31' Keystone Springdale. We would just about get seasick in it. It drove me nutz! There is a guy local to me who builds a really good stabilizer setup called "Steadyfast". I went down and spoke with him and he gave me some pointers on getting more stability with the trailer.

A 31' TT is a long trailer and built pretty light weight these days. He told me to think of it as a bridge. The bridge supports are at the ends (jacks) and a lot of space between those supports. If you move the supports inboard the span is a lot less.

Now you may or not be able to do this on all trailers, but I moved my front and rear jacks towards the center of the trailer about 18". I also added a third set of jacks just in front of the front tire. I have all scissor jacks on mine. This was a good thing as my jacks were mounted too low anyway and the rear jacks would get close to hitting on curbs ETC. The fronts were mounted on the rear of the hitch a frame and the rears were mounted on the bumper support frame. So the jacks got moved in 18" and raised about 5-6 inches.

I then installed the "Steadyfast" system. It uses 2 struts on one of the front jacks to anchor the front of the trailer. And one strut on the rear to keep the rear from moving side to side.

I also built 4 large 10" X 16" X 3" wood pads for the corner jacks to sit on. The pads for the center jacks and the tongue jack are a bit smaller.

It isn't like my house, but it is a 100% improvement over what it was. Don't need to take Dramamine to watch TV anymore.

Steadyfast link: http://tinyurl.com/zjel3se

Video of what it is. I met with this guy. He knows what is what with trailer shake.

https://youtu.be/2Hd7QxA6FIs
X2 on the Steadyfast! I actually fabricated my own, but it was a phenomenal difference! Heavy winds and we barely noticed!
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Old 03-14-2016, 08:03 PM   #22
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Dog Flops

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My dog weighs 120 pounds. When he flops it's about a 4.2 quake and there is nothing going to stop that.
We have a 115 pound Catahoula mix and when he flops you know it, and you WILL NOT move him unless he wants to be moved.

But we love him.
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:53 PM   #23
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A 115 lb dog never equals a 7 year old grandson. No way.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:14 AM   #24
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I found that if I overinflated my tires about 10 lbs more from 50 to 60 psi along with the x chocks and the stab jacks on 4 homemade wood pads that are about 8 inches thich I get quite a bit of stability. I make sure as part of my leave checklist i defalte the tires back to 50 before leaving. It works for me...
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Old 03-23-2016, 06:52 PM   #25
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Something I discovered today while repairing (motor switch, motor cover) my Barker VIP3000 tongue jack. The frame on my Flagstaff TT has 2 1/4 holes for the jack post, but the Jack post is smaller in diameter so that there is some slop where it goes thru the lower hole. I noticed on the parts diagram that there is a "Post Adapter" or bushing available to fill the gap. Slop = wiggle, so when I ordered parts I ordered one of those too. Takes out another source of wiggle. Don't know if it was never installed, or the previous owner removed it for some reason, but there is definitely less wiggle with the post adapter installed. As always YMMV.
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:31 PM   #26
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Something I discovered today while repairing (motor switch, motor cover) my Barker VIP3000 tongue jack. The frame on my Flagstaff TT has 2 1/4 holes for the jack post, but the Jack post is smaller in diameter so that there is some slop where it goes thru the lower hole. I noticed on the parts diagram that there is a "Post Adapter" or bushing available to fill the gap. Slop = wiggle, so when I ordered parts I ordered one of those too. Takes out another source of wiggle. Don't know if it was never installed, or the previous owner removed it for some reason, but there is definitely less wiggle with the post adapter installed. As always YMMV.

You are on the right track. If anyone wants to see what JimBob is talking about, just grab a front corner of your trailer and push on it side to side while watching the top of the tongue jack.

I added a bottom plate to the tongue jack so that it can't sway side to side or front to back. I also added a spacer inside the jack foot so that it isn't supported by the pin. With the jack post supported above and below the frame it becomes an effective "pin" and keeps the front on location. I also added stabilizer jacks just in front of the wheels. By putting only a little pressure on the front stabilizer jacks, the "pin" carries most of the original load and is more effective. The rear jacks are cranked down rather firmly and the center jacks are loaded with a pressure about half way between the front and rear jacks.

If you add a bottom plate it will be useless if it doesn't fit the jack precisely. Just 1/32" of clearance would render it ineffective. I made my own and bored the hole for a snug fit. Here is a photo looking up:

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Old 03-23-2016, 11:16 PM   #27
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Now go to the back of the TT and push on the corner sideways. Look at the tire sidewall flex.
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:18 PM   #28
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Now go to the back of the TT and push on the corner sideways. Look at the tire sidewall flex.
Right. My tongue jack is pretty sloppy as well. Once I tighten my 3 Steadyfast strut arms there is zero slop.

One thing I did to my Keystone which is great and also a curse was to move my scissor jacks from the tongue frame and the rear bumper sub-frame to the trailer main frame. Moving the jacks inboard a couple feet really helped to lessen that long 31' bridge effect and it also gave me a lot more ground clearance. My rear jacks would hit on occasion. But now, being I raised the jacks 6', I need about 3 tons of blocks so my jacks aren't fully extended. I need to figure out something strong and lightweight that is easy to store.

Any ideas on this?
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