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Old 06-04-2012, 04:49 PM   #15
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Glad I found this thread.....Thank you for your input. I am sure there are a lot of threads on this website about this, but I am new to MH's and don't even know what a BDS is? So, my question I have is this: It seems like when connected to shore power (30 or 50 amps) we get fault errors and overheating error lights up on the main control panel. Then the battery level indicator goes red, then the charger kicks in and starts to recharge. This damn thing goes all night long. Is this normal? Also, when extracting the levelers should we us ethe shore power? We unplug and then try to bring them up and they are slow and get stuck. Thx
Don't have all answers, but others will.... BDS = Battery Disconnect Switch, primarily used when storing your rig.

Battery indicator going red might indicate low water in batts -- they won't hold or accept charging without proper water level.... Need to check, maybe monthly.... I run my slides and levelers with the engine running to use the alternator for additional 'juice', otherwise everything slows down and works the batts too hard. Hope I've helped a little. You'll hear more from others. Happy trails
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:37 PM   #16
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Smile Shore power

In regards to my initial post, I have an Everlite 35 RL_DS travel trailer and I do
not have a battery disconnect switch. The reason for my inquiry is that my spare tire was recently stolen this past weekend ( I better never find a stranger "snooping" around my trailer when I arrive) and they left the battery alone. Just easy pickings on their part, so, if I don't need battery connected if I'm on shore power 100% of the time why should I have if out there for potential theft??
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasdad
In regards to my initial post, I have an Everlite 35 RL_DS travel trailer and I do
not have a battery disconnect switch. The reason for my inquiry is that my spare tire was recently stolen this past weekend ( I better never find a stranger "snooping" around my trailer when I arrive) and they left the battery alone. Just easy pickings on their part, so, if I don't need battery connected if I'm on shore power 100% of the time why should I have if out there for potential theft??
Eventually you will tax the converter enough to fail.
Then you will have no 12 volt.
Battery is required for slide movement.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasdad
In regards to my initial post, I have an Everlite 35 RL_DS travel trailer and I do
not have a battery disconnect switch. The reason for my inquiry is that my spare tire was recently stolen this past weekend ( I better never find a stranger "snooping" around my trailer when I arrive) and they left the battery alone. Just easy pickings on their part, so, if I don't need battery connected if I'm on shore power 100% of the time why should I have if out there for potential theft??
If you are worried about theft when you aren't there, by all meams take the battery with you, just make sure you fully charge it at least once per month. If you do decide to take the battery home, there is no need to keep shore power hooked up to your trailer.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:39 AM   #19
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I keep shore power on to keep things in my fridge cold year round
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:39 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by clyon51

Really? If you have a BDS, turn it off, if not, pull one of the battery cables. Now tell us what you have with shore power.
Mines not hooked up at all and we have 100% power when hooked up to shore power. We don't even have a BDS. The only thing we use our battery for is the slides.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:45 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Eventually you will tax the converter enough to fail.
Then you will have no 12 volt.
Battery is required for slide movement.
And you only need the converter if you plan to camp where there is no shore power. Otherwise you will not ever use your converter. The battery on the other hand will be used every time you use an electric slide. You could just keep it in your truck and hook it up as needed to extend your slides if your worried someone will steal it. if you are not boon docking that's the only thing you'll need a battery for. Converter won't even be in use. We do not boon dock and just recently realized our converter is pretty much useless to is as we get 100% power in our TT without converter while hooked up to shore power. that said, we really didn't need such a large battery to power something as simple as a slide. :-/
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MamaKim

And you only need the converter if you plan to camp where there is no shore power. Otherwise you will not ever use your converter. The battery on the other hand will be used every time you use an electric slide. You could just keep it in your truck and hook it up as needed to extend your slides if your worried someone will steal it. if you are not boon docking that's the only thing you'll need a battery for. Converter won't even be in use. We do not boon dock and just recently realized our converter is pretty much useless to is as we get 100% power in our TT without converter while hooked up to shore power. that said, we really didn't need such a large battery to power something as simple as a slide. :-/
I'm not trying to start a debate here. although it "seems" you only need your converter to charge your battery when boondoocking it "really" is a good idea to use it in conjunction with a battery when hooked to shore power as a buffer. If you are hooked to shore power with no battery and you turn on several 12v items, your running your converter at "Max" and will lead to premature death of your converter.
Your battery absorbs some of these amps in conjunction with the converter. Therefore applying less "stress" to the converter.

Your battery should not be disconnected from system when plugged in to shore power during use.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:23 PM   #23
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I'm not trying to start a debate here. although it "seems" you only need your converter to charge your battery when boondoocking it "really" is a good idea to use it in conjunction with a battery when hooked to shore power as a buffer. If you are hooked to shore power with no battery and you turn on several 12v items, your running your converter at "Max" and will lead to premature death of your converter.
Your battery absorbs some of these amps in conjunction with the converter. Therefore applying less "stress" to the converter.

Your battery should not be disconnected from system when plugged in to shore power during use.
Very good points.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:38 PM   #24
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Very good points.
I totally understand where your coming from and understand your method.
And while you are %100 right, I trully
Believe battery and converter used together is the "best " option while hooked to shore power.
Cheers!
And have fun this summer!
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:34 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
It "seems" you only need your converter to charge your battery when boon docking it "really" is a good idea to use it in conjunction with a battery when hooked to shore power as a buffer. If you are hooked to shore power with no battery and you turn on several 12v items, your running your converter at "Max" and will lead to premature death of your converter. Your battery absorbs some of these amps in conjunction with the converter. Therefore applying less "stress" to the converter.

Your battery should not be disconnected from system when plugged in to shore power during use.
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
I totally understand where your coming from and understand your method. And while you are %100 right, I truly believe battery and converter used together is the "best " option while hooked to shore power.
A good comparison is a wall wart. If you have an 12 volt tool, the wall wart usually puts
out somewhere around 15+ volts when not connected to a load. Do you really want to
put 14-15 volts to your lights and other 12 volt appliances?

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Old 06-05-2012, 05:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner

A good comparison is a wall wart. If you have an 12 volt tool, the wall wart usually puts
out somewhere around 15+ volts when not connected to a load. Do you really want to
put 14-15 volts to your lights and other 12 volt appliances?
Good comparison!
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:14 AM   #27
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Here is some more food for thought. If you remove the battery, you also remove the power source for your electric brakes should you have a breakaway. Without the battery, your trailer ain't got no brakes. Period. That would be a hard one to 'splain.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:50 AM   #28
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Do I need my battery connected if I'm attached to shore power 100% of the time??

Ummm...
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