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Old 07-08-2016, 08:22 AM   #43
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We have an 80 gallon tank in our new trailer. In our previous ones the capacity was half that and we travelled with it full with no issues. This past weekend we took our trailer on a 270 mile trip one way. We were going to arrive late so I travelled with a full tank. Drove into a headwind most of the trip and got 10 mpg (imperial). I can't say that I observed a noticeable difference travelling full. On way home I emptied the tanks and got 11 mpg in a slight cross wind. I couldn't feel any difference in ride or handling from travelling full.
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Old 07-08-2016, 10:55 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Off Road View Post
Your fresh water tank is really only 70 gallons. They take into account the 10 gallons in the hot water heater as part of your "80 gallons fresh water capacity." We have the same trailer, I've yet to pull it with water in the tank so I am no help.
I have a Creekside and it too is the same. They advertise 80gal fresh water capacity but it's actually 70 plus 10 in the hot water tank. A bit of a slight of advertising if you ask me as fresh water capacity was on the top three list when I was shopping for a new camper
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Old 07-08-2016, 11:23 AM   #45
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I drink from the fresh water tank in my trailer. Safe water in, safe water out. Water doesn't become unsafe just from sitting in a mostly closed system for a couple of weeks or even months.

What is a furl tank?
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Old 07-08-2016, 11:24 AM   #46
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A bit of a slight of advertising if you ask me as fresh water capacity was on the top three list when I was shopping for a new camper
Not really, when you consider that the plumbing and hot water heater is holding water for you. It may not be true usable capacity, but it's not there because it does nothing for you at all.
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Old 07-08-2016, 11:32 AM   #47
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Actually, the only water capacity you should care about is useable capacity. The capacity advertised is a mathematic capacity, the volume of the tank. All that water in the hot water tank is unusable if there is no water at the pump to push the hot water from the tank. But, along with a long list of immoral behaviors and general boofoonery demonstrated by the rv manufacturers, the lies about capacity are rather mild.
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:26 PM   #48
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Our home base (Anacortes, WA) has always ranked in the top five water quality rankings nationwide, since we moved here 16 years ago. One experience of a very skanky CG water system put us off using CG water for cooking or drinking. I think our rig's tank was 50 gallons and it was always full when we started out from home.

I always checked the CG supply quality when there was a risk of running the tank dry and a couple of trips we switched to bottled water for drinking/cooking.
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:39 PM   #49
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Curious after reading these posts. How many drink from there water systems and how do you tell if your water system is good to drink? We bought a 2005 national, 30,000 miles, also if you use it for drinking, how do you treat it each year?
We use ours for everything except filling the coffee pot. For the coffee pot I use bottled spring water.

I sanitize the FW tank and plumbing system every year with bleach, change the water filter every 3 months.

If we are hooked up to city water we don't use the tank.
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:53 PM   #50
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What is a furl tank?
They only exist inside an iPhone.
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Old 07-08-2016, 03:19 PM   #51
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I drink from the fresh water tank in my trailer. Safe water in, safe water out. Water doesn't become unsafe just from sitting in a mostly closed system for a couple of weeks or even months.


+1
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Old 07-08-2016, 03:22 PM   #52
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My DW and I live in the northwest rain forest and have been spoiled by having wonderful drinking water at our S&B. The motorhome is always full of water (100 gallons) and pantry shelves all filled with provisions. One never know when one will decide to hit the road at a moments notice.

Traveling with a full tanks of potable water is really important if you boondock and also when traveling into unknown water quality areas. East of the mountains we have run into some skanky water issues in towns and villages all over North America. The water you bring with you is what you get to use in these situations. In a couple of places in the midwest band south I paid to fill our fresh water tank at a water bottling plant. Our basic rule is to test the campground water supply before hooking up.
Run the CG tap for a couple of minutes and then fill up a glass to see the clarity and then do a sip test. If you don't get a terrible taste then hook up the water.
Liken it to being a wine conoisier, a gourmet even!! Said in my best snagglepuss voice.
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:12 PM   #53
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They only exist inside an iPhone.
Good to know. I only let Google snoop in my private life.
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:02 AM   #54
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The DW and I usually just fill the tank. We tried half and third tank-fulls but did not notice a significant difference. Our fresh tank holds 46 gallons.
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:15 AM   #55
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What is the correct ration and procedure for sanitizing the FWT ???
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:21 AM   #56
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What is the correct ration and procedure for sanitizing the FWT ???
Be sure to note the different bleach amounts to be used based on the sodium hypochlorite concentration. Most bleach available in stores is 8.25%. The procedure below gives you the dose required for both 5.25 and 8.25%. Too much bleach can be harmful to the plumbing system.

Use the gravity fill to perform this task. Remove cap from the gravity fill. Add the solution. When finished, secure the gravity fill cap. If you don't have gravity fill use the winterizing pick up tube to introduce the solution to your system.

1) Remove the water line connections and connect the bypass hose to the water lines on water filter. If you don't have a bypass just remove the filter and replace the housing or pump it through the city water fill line.

2) Prepare a household chlorine bleach solution of 1 gallon water and 1⁄4 cup of chlorine bleach (see not at bottom concerning bleach strength). Use 1 gallon of solution for every 15 gallons of tank capacity. E.g.: Add 2-2/3 gallons solution to a 40 gallon tank. This mixture puts a 50 ppm (parts per million) residual in the water system, and acts as a quick-kill dosage for harmful bacteria, viruses and slime- forming organisms. Concentrations higher than 50 ppm may damage the water lines and/or tanks.

3) Turn the water pump OFF.

4) Close the water heater bypass valve. The bypass valve is located behind the water heater. This ensures that none of the prepared disinfecting solution enters the water heater. Refer to the water heater OEM instructions on ushing the water heater.

5) Drain the fresh water tank. Water tank drain is located in the roadside water service center. Close the drain and pour the solution into the fresh water tank using the gravity ll and a funnel.

6) Turn the water pump ON. Open each faucet, in turn, and run the water until you smell a distinct chlorine bleach odor. Do not forget the hot water, tub and shower faucets. Allow the system to stand for 4 hours.

7) Drain the system and ush with fresh water. The water tank and low point drains are located in the roadside water service center. Flush with fresh water repeatedly until the water system no longer smells or tastes like chlorine bleach.

8) Install new water filter.

9) Remove bypass hose and store. Reconnect water lines to water filter.

TIP
Use the same hose labeled for potable water to introduce the chlorine solution into the system. This will disinfect the potable water hose at the same time. Several flushes are required to remove chlorine residue from the potable hose.

INFORMATION
Household bleach is 5.25% Sodium Hypochlorite. Higher concentration will increase PPM ratio. If using 8.25% Sodium Hypochlorite (typical to laundry bleach) reduce from 1/4 cup per gallon of solution to 2.5 tablespoons per gallon of solution.

As noted earlier by 007 you can skip bypassing the water heater and sanitize it as well.
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