Stabilizing jacks

[ffmd212]

I am a little new to RVing and need a little advice on using my stabilizing jacks. I have a 32' TT with a scissor jack on each corner. We bought this trailer used last year and it is my first RV. When I set up I get the unit level first then I set my four jacks. My problem is that I still have a lot of movement in the trailer. As I have looked around the camp sites I have been too I see other campers using large pieces of wood to put their jacks on. The guy I got mine from gave me four landscaping blocks to use. I was wondering if these blocks are not wide enough or do I need anything at all. Would I be better off putting the jacks straight to the ground?

[Grumpytrkr]

Do you use wheel blocks on both axles?

[Ray,IN]

I think using a piece of wood under the stabilizing jacks is only necessary on soft ground and where required by the CG/RV park to protect their blacktop from being ruined. I have found that a between-the-tires type chock works well to reduce fore and aft movement. They however do nothing for side-to-side movement, or up/down movement,which is the main function of your stabilizing jacks
I make my own between the tires chocks from two tapered blocks of wood 4x4, 2' of 3/8" all-thread, 3 flat washers and 3 nuts. They work just as well as the retail ones, except cost about $4 for one.

[ffmd212]

I use scissor type chocks between the wheel.

[mhs4771]

Short of putting the rig up on cement blocks, you will have some movement. Wheel chocks and jacks help, but will not eliminate movement. Remember you'r mounted on wheels and springs. Most jacks are poor stabilizers, to help stop movement, you would have to get some of the weight off the wheels. I have had an auto leveling system installed on my 5er and it takes weight off the wheels and makes a much more stable unit. There are products on the market, such a JT Strongarm stabilizing bars which I understand really help alot, but more things to adjust and tighten when setting up. Good luck and best wishes

[NLOVNIT]

You should expect some movement, but not a lot. We had scissor jacks on our previously owned TT & 5-r. We would crank them down until they touched the ground, then another half to full crank to set secure. We used wood blocks only when on soft ground or gravel & on asphalt (but only if it was really hot outside making the asphalt soft). We used the rubber wedge chocks for the wheels on the TT, but used Rotochoks between the tires on the 5-r.

Lori-

[Dutch & Diana Irrgang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ffmd212 I am a little new to RVing and need a little advice on using my stabilizing jacks. I have a 32' TT with a scissor jack on each corner. We bought this trailer used last year and it is my first RV. When I set up I get the unit level first then I set my four jacks. My problem is that I still have a lot of movement in the trailer. As I have looked around the camp sites I have been too I see other campers using large pieces of wood to put their jacks on. The guy I got mine from gave me four landscaping blocks to use. I was wondering if these blocks are not wide enough or do I need anything at all. Would I be better off putting the jacks straight to the ground?

The closer you get your jacks to the ground the better off you'll be. Just use an inch or so thick pieces of wood maybe 8 to 10" square. If that doesn't help your interior movement, you can go to one of the permanently mounted stabilizing systems out there. We've been using our Plug It Right stabilizers for over 5 years and have no movement. Diana

[ffmd212]

Thanks for all the tips! I will try them out next month on our maiden voyage of the season. I was not sure if the movement of the trailer was normal or not, so thanks for that info too. I am defiantly getting rid of the blocks and just going with some wood pieces for ground support, those blocks are a lot of weight I do not need to carry around. Thanks again and Happy camping everyone!

[Roy W.]

My experience has been to block up under the jacks and keep scissors jack extension to a minimum. The more the jack is extended the more play it has. Try this: run your scissors jack down about 12-15 inches (but not contacting the ground) and then grab the bottom of the jack, moving it fore and aft. Just due to the nature of the way the scissor jack operates, the more it is extended, the sloppier it gets. I use 4 X 4 blocks about 12 " long. The smooth planed surfaces assure their stability and they have an adequate footprint for most locations. A BAL between the tires chock that expands tightly between the tires goes a long way in stopping fore and aft movement of the trailer. Also taking some weight off the tongue jack after the trailer is level and the stabilizer jacks are down helps some.

[albertaborn]

I have a 34 ft trailer and movement was an issue. I also put a bottle jack under frame right in front on front tires / both sides, and take it up 1 inch. this takes some weight off of tires and suspention. since doing this it eliminated some rocking and bounce in trailer.

[larrydp]

Great answers! thanks! helps me, after one season of camping in our 1st TT, understand why i was still getting some movement and wondering if that was normal of if i was not doing something correctly. now, another question....is there a proper sequence to lowering the scissor jacks???

[Roy W.]

Here's the sequence I use on our 32 footer. While backing the trailer onto your campsite, make an effort to make it as level from side to side as is possible. Then using your tongue jack, level it lengthwise, then DROP the tongue end another inch or so. Now go to the back and crank down the stabilizer jacks until they contact the ground. Then go to the tongue jack and raise the tongue end a small amount ABOVE level. Crank your front jacks down until they touch the ground, and then drop the tongue jack back down until the trailer is level. This procedure will put more weight on the stabilizing jacks than you could ever put on them cranking them down by hand. The more weight you put on the stabilizing jacks, the less rockin' and rollin' your trailer will do. One more hint, if your trailer is not level from side to side when starting this procedure, leave the rear stabilizer jack that is on the high side a little bit off the ground. Now when you raise the tongue end, the trailer will level itself as the jack that is already contacting the ground will tilt the trailer over to the other side.........Lots of methods out there, this is just the one that works for me.

[wa8yxm]

Well, I have a 4=jack leveling system, Good soild hydraulics, and I put as much weight on them as they will take.

I go sit and think a while, Wife gets up to go use the main head (I use the aux) bath and a half model) and it feels like an earthquake.

What can I say.

[larrydp]

thanks Roy W. those ideas make LOTS of sense!!!