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Old 08-02-2009, 01:56 AM   #29
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Location: Walker, LA USA
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The tank was removed so that complete access could be provided; this was done by a large RV dealer in Hammond, LA.

The tank had to be able to be inverted and the contents attacked by plumbing "snakes" and high pressure water.

I understand it took three men to shake and roll the tank to break up the clogged mess. Must have been real fun.

Camping World and this dealership share the same area and building.

Camping World has always been of great service to me for a long time and I was comfortable with their recommendation.

I can now put 5 gallons of water in the tank and get 5 gallons out when I dump. The level sensor now works as intended.

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Old 04-05-2017, 10:26 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Forget the homebrew stuff that likely will never work anyway. I have used a twist-on valve and a RV hydro-flush fitting. Mated together with the RV hydro-flush on your sewer outlet, then the twist-on valve. This way you may use a water hose to pressurize your sewer plumbing (be sure to open the RV's black tank dump valve first). Use a water pressure regulator to reduce water pressure to about 35psi or less to avoid valve damage or blowing too much water too quickly into the tank when the blockage eventually gives way. I can't guarantee this will work every time but it did the one time I tried it. These fittings may be purchased from RVUpgrades.com, one of this forums sponsors.

If you are hesitant to try this there is another possibility. TST heavy duty cleaner, it is used commonly to loosen and remove wallpaper, but does a good job of cleaning black/grey holding tanks too. Keep in mind that everything you put in the tank must come out. Once you get the blockage opened, even slightly, then you can add plenty of water and TST to soak things to a more liquid state. Whatever you decide, do not add drain cleaner (acid or caustic) to the tank. Plumbers and service people will not be pleasant or forgiving.
What is TST? Could you mean TSP (tri-sodium phosphate)?

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Old 04-06-2017, 05:03 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Dan Paymar View Post
What is TST? Could you mean TSP (tri-sodium phosphate)?
Tank treatment/cleanerClick image for larger version

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Old 04-06-2017, 05:23 PM   #32
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Putting bleach into your tank would probably help kill bacteria in your tank, but you would have to be careful where you dump your tank. If it was a public sewer system, it might be ok. If it was a campground that had a septic system, bleach is the worst thing you can put into a system. It kills the bacteria that does the job of sanitizing the effluent going into the system. Just like in your home, if you have a septic system, you dont put bleach down the drain. As far as the dry tank goes, I have also read you should never leave your grey water tank valve open at a rv park for the same reason. Scum can be left behind as the water drains away and dries to the sides of the tank. I prefer to drain both tanks when they fill up, then close the valves again.
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Old 04-06-2017, 08:53 PM   #33
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What you can do now is every so often is out a bag or three of ice cubes in your black tank as you leave a camp gound. Towing the bouncy trailer with Ice cubes in the black tank help clean it.

Also use your black tank flush. I let mine run 15 - 20 minutes.
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:26 PM   #34
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My grand daughter flushed a plastic cup down the toilet. Every thing was fine for 2 months of full timing until the last day. Yup, cup stuck in the drainage pipe! God bless the RV teck who got it out. Nope, don't want the cup back!
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Old 04-11-2017, 08:21 PM   #35
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Cleaning a black tank with ice cubes is a myth. Watch the video it does very little.

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Old 04-11-2017, 08:31 PM   #36
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Ice Cubes in the trailer black tank mixed with water will swish around more than in the bed of a truck.

To me, the ice cubes kinda worked. That is good enough for me.
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Old 04-15-2017, 02:01 PM   #37
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One thing I do know! As stated the tank in an RV is a storage tank for crap. Nothing more nothing less.

But I lived on an acreage for most of my life. We never did any maintenance other than every 5 to 10 years we would get the septic tank cleaned out. It was the bell type discharge system.

My dad used this product once a month.
Septonic - Stimulates Action in Septic Tanks, Septic Tank Cleaner, Treatment, Solution, Enzyme Cleaner

We went on holidays for a month and I put it in the toilet and flushed it down. We found that there was a lot of agitation going on when we got back because of the chemical reaction that was taking place.

My recommendation for people that have issues such as stated by the OP would be to use this product or some similar product used in septic tanks for a one time solution.
But you will have to give it some time to work.
It works believe me. It will break any crap down to liquid state.

I also use Ice! But with Rum and Coke!!
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:05 AM   #38
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Enzymes are catalysts: they increase the rate of a chemical reaction. They do not cause a chemical reaction. Without some reaction, an enzyme is useless.

Thus, I am sceptical to claims about enzymes applied to feces, because specific enzymes must be used for specific reactions. Meat tenderisers work by specific enzymes [proteins in the case] acting upon the protein in the meats to render the protein molecule smaller and thereby render it more tender to our pallete. The same is used to help dissolve fatty proteins: fats contain water and, by reducing the fat, the enzyme can cause release of water to thus suspend the smaller fat proteins in aqueous solution.

Human feces are a cornucopia of chemicals and biomass, having a high protein and water content, and thus can be reduced by enzymes engineered specfically for this. But enzymes do not magically cause the biomass to disappear: that can be done by bacteria only, an example of which is yeast consuming sugar to produce alcohol in aqueous. You will always have biomass residue.

Thus any claim that TST etc can magically clean your black tank is simply a fraud: it cannot. All it can do, at the most, is chemo-reduce your feces by some amount and suspend them in water, but the heavier solids will settle to tank bottom, and you will have a smelly, sticky, dense sludge remaining. You will need to flush your tanks the same as before. You may need more cleaners, enzymes, or lubricants to remove the sludge, which may require agitation. Lastly consider this: the remaining sludge stuck to the bottom of your tank could very well be MUCH more difficult to rinse away than your regular poop.

To a bacteria cell, this is food for thought.

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