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Old 04-17-2013, 09:00 PM   #15
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I took the Regulator to a propane store and they said nothing is wrong with my Regulator. They told me to open the valve real slow which I will do. In the past I opened the valve real quick.

I checked for leaks with soap and water and found none.


Thanks.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:48 PM   #16
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you may have gotten some moisture in the tank. Had that problem with a 20# bottle a few years ago - could not keep a camp stove going without freezing up. Had the tank purged and filled and never had a problem again.

On the manometer suggestion - couldn't agree more! I carry one all the time.
Do a google search on "using a manometer to test for leaks" and you will see a couple of youtube links showing how to build and use one.

I am not an expert by any means but a manometer is very simple to use.
1) Turn the gas OFF at the tank.
2) With the stove top controls turned OFF, raise the stove top to gain access to the gas plumbing.
3) Remove one of the burners - usually a single screw.
4) Connect the manometer hose to the burner control valve outlet.
5) Turn the gas ON at the tank.
6) Turn ON the burner gas control on the stove. The manometer should read around 11 inches of pressure.
7) Leave the burner control ON and turn OFF the gas supply at the tank.
8) Watch the manometer reading. It should not drop at all over a 15 minute time period. If you have a leak someplace, it will drop.
9) After 15 minutes with no drop shown on the manometer, turn on a different stove burner to bleed the pressure to ZERO.
10) Turn the "different" burner control OFF.
11) With the main tank valve still turned OFF watch the manometer for 15 minutes to ensure the pressure DOES NOT return.

IF it shows an increase in pressure, this means your main tank shut off valve IS NOT shutting OFF completely and all the testing you just did IS NOT valid. You will need to fix the main tank valve and repeat all the above. What is happening is the tank is still supplying pressure when you are doing the leak test so regardless if there is a leak or not, the pressure will remain at a normal level. I have been bit twice due to a leaking main shutoff valve so I always make that last test to be sure! I guess you could do step 11 after step 4 if you want but I always save it for last!

Be careful dealing with propane.

Lenp
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:53 PM   #17
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I'd like to echo the statement to check for leaks often. I have a few nights of camping so far this year since the beginning of the season and I store my trailer in the driveway. I turned on the gas last night to precool the fridge and went inside the house. I came out a bit later and smelled a very strong gas odor. One of my pigtails between the tank and the regulator had sprung a leak at the regulator end. Of course, I'm headed out today and didn't have a spare. Fortunately my dealer had a couple in stock, so I replaced the pigtails and bought an extra one for the spare parts box. I would have been boned if I had gotten to a campsite and had that happen.

The trailer is a 2012. The hoses were Chinese and are already starting to dry rot. I'm checking and replacing all the rest of the soft lines in the propane system when I get home!

I have a toddler so I borrowed her bubble solution to do the leak test. It made it easy.
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildbob52 View Post
I took the Regulator to a propane store and they said nothing is wrong with my Regulator. They told me to open the valve real slow which I will do. In the past I opened the valve real quick.

I checked for leaks with soap and water and found none.


Thanks.
Just a heads up to say that while I too use soapy water to check known connections, a whole-rig LP system pressure/leak test at my local RV place only costs around thirty bucks. I get this done every season for peace of mind and highly recommend it.

If the test indicates a problem they can find it, too.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lenp View Post
I am not an expert by any means but a manometer is very simple to use.
1) Turn the gas OFF at the tank.
2) With the stove top controls turned OFF, raise the stove top to gain access to the gas plumbing.
3) Remove one of the burners - usually a single screw.
4) Connect the manometer hose to the burner control valve outlet.
5) Turn the gas ON at the tank.
6) Turn ON the burner gas control on the stove. The manometer should read around 11 inches of pressure.
7) Leave the burner control ON and turn OFF the gas supply at the tank.
7.5) Open up any other burner on the stove top, and bleed off pressure until your manometer reads 8"/Hg. If you don't do this whatever is left in the regulator at high pressure will just replenish anything lost in the system. Also, by doing this, you can also see if the system gains OR loses pressure.
8) Watch the manometer reading. It should not drop at all over a 15 minute time period. If you have a leak someplace, it will drop.
9) After 15 minutes with no drop shown on the manometer, turn on a different stove burner to bleed the pressure to ZERO.
10) Turn the "different" burner control OFF.
11) With the main tank valve still turned OFF watch the manometer for 15 minutes to ensure the pressure DOES NOT return.

IF it shows an increase in pressure, this means your main tank shut off valve IS NOT shutting OFF completely and all the testing you just did IS NOT valid. You will need to fix the main tank valve and repeat all the above. What is happening is the tank is still supplying pressure when you are doing the leak test so regardless if there is a leak or not, the pressure will remain at a normal level. I have been bit twice due to a leaking main shutoff valve so I always make that last test to be sure! I guess you could do step 11 after step 4 if you want but I always save it for last!

Be careful dealing with propane.

Lenp
In red, my reply.
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Old 04-22-2013, 12:22 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartlettj View Post
I'd like to echo the statement to check for leaks often. I have a few nights of camping so far this year since the beginning of the season and I store my trailer in the driveway. I turned on the gas last night to precool the fridge and went inside the house. I came out a bit later and smelled a very strong gas odor. One of my pigtails between the tank and the regulator had sprung a leak at the regulator end. Of course, I'm headed out today and didn't have a spare. Fortunately my dealer had a couple in stock, so I replaced the pigtails and bought an extra one for the spare parts box. I would have been boned if I had gotten to a campsite and had that happen.

The trailer is a 2012. The hoses were Chinese and are already starting to dry rot. I'm checking and replacing all the rest of the soft lines in the propane system when I get home!
I remember reading about a recall for the Chinese pigtails a few years ago, but can't remember more details.

I have a toddler so I borrowed her bubble solution to do the leak test. It made it easy.
Can't be too careful with LPG.
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Old 03-28-2016, 06:00 PM   #21
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After reading this thread, I still had questions about how the high flow protection device works. I found this article helpful to explain some of the basics: Propane 101-The basics
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:18 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by MichelleKry View Post
After reading this thread, I still had questions about how the high flow protection device works. I found this article helpful to explain some of the basics: Propane 101-The basics
Hi, Michelle, and
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