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Old 11-15-2017, 05:45 PM   #15
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Lots of opinions. Go to the shows and visit the dealers. Go to the campgrounds and talk to campers, we are a friendly lot and we love to talk about our rv's. We will be honest with you about the faults and the great stuff about our rigs. Use your head and find the floor plan you can live in with the lifestyle you enjoy. To pull what I imagine you will find acceptable for FT, I believe that you will want at least a 3/4 ton truck, and I believe you will be happier long term with a diesel. But we don't FT, yet so that's just our opinion. When we do FT, we will buy a MH and a Toad, but that's us.
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Old 11-15-2017, 05:49 PM   #16
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If you want to boondock you need to get out west where you can boondock on BLM land for $180 / six months. There are other places but they a few and far apart. Like trying to boondock in Ohio, not sure where to try it as most land is private.

I still say a truck bigger than a 1/2 ton would be best. Put a cap on the bigger bed and you have plenty of storage.

To boondock for months at a time you will need solar power, a generator and lots of battery capacity. That would be a whole new discussion.
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Old 11-15-2017, 07:13 PM   #17
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Again thank all for your help.
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Old 11-16-2017, 05:44 AM   #18
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I put in my two cents worth. How do you plan to travel. Will you move or sit? Big rigs are much harder to travel with. Will you stay commercial or do you want public parks? Again large rigs are more difficult to get into many of our public campgrounds. If you plan to travel, can you get to the refer with the slides in? How about the bathroom? Where is the water pump switch?

You need to do lots more research. It sounds like you may be a newbie, if so, I really recommend you go to shows, dealers and walk around some campgrounds in the evening and talk to folks. You won't buy your perfect rig. It doesn't exist. Consider buying used to start. You'll loose way less money that way. Enjoy the journey.
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Old 11-16-2017, 06:05 AM   #19
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With 14K you will need to look at used, probably about 3 years old or older. For best built look at NASH or Outdoor RV or Lance. But your budget limits you and you may need to go older with those brands.



You should visit the various TT sites and find a floor plan you like and then try to find a used one.



You don't need a F250 for a 29' TT but might need it for a 5th.



For boondocking you will probably need to spend in the area of 1K-1.5K for solar and new batteries.


I second Lance, AF, or ORV for this. Of the three, I think only Nash has a non slide <30' bunkhouse. I walked through a new one for $23k this summer. These are niche brands so finding a good used unit may be an exercise in patience...

http://northwoodmfg.com/wp-content/uploads/N-23B-3.pdf

My 2013 SCREW FX4 EB winds up with about 800 lbs of GVWR left with me sitting in it, fully fueled, with my tool box. That gets awful skinny for TTs of any size: a F250 is a good choice.
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:30 AM   #20
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For your budget, decent quality, and in your area, here's a few to consider:

A little out of budget, maybe a cash deal would get closer, but it's a Sunnybrook, Remington, right after Winnebago bought them out to get into the travel trailer market. Remington line not a well know brand/model, but still has the Sunnybrook build quality and features.
Sunnybrook 2014 2750 BHS

Hey, they appear to have a 2550 RKS as "new" also:
Sunnybrook 2014 2550 RKS Remington

This would be good quality, well insulated, near the budget, but it's at the salt lake city General RV store, maybe a transfer to the Wixom or North Canton location?
Used 2012 Outdoors RV Creek Side 26BKS Travel Trailer at General RV | Draper, UT | #165680

Sunnybrook Titan, 30' heavy, but very well built:
https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/200...FKS-5000247514

Titan brochure, check out the specs and features:
http://www.coltonrv.com/wp-content/u...n-Brochure.pdf

Now this is a Keystone, (some love them, some don't) but it's the Cougar line, if it has been well maintained, it might be worth a look: (it certainly looks nice in the pictures).
https://www.hatfieldrv.com/2012-keys...-ohio-129.html

Edit, I'm on the Sunnybrook train today: Here's an Edgewater model, (more of an entry level), with aluminum siding, but still a decent build quality, comes with the weight distribution hitch included.
https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/r...386258527.html

Good Luck!
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Old 11-16-2017, 09:04 AM   #21
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First off, Thank you for all your responses. My wife and I in 2 years are selling it all and boondocking. Don't want to spend our retirement in the same old place doing the same old thing. We would like to stay around 29' and under. We will have a budget of about 14k and want to buy out right. At that time we will up grade our truck from a F150 FX4 to a F250. We're not going to try and tackle the country all at once but will travel a bit. Just want any ideas as best built for the road. I know Air Streams are solid but I'm sure will be out of our budget. We'll be staying toward warmer climates and like a bunk house design. We don't need slides. Thank you again for your thoughts and ideas.
As a retiree, I don't think I could see me climbing up into a bunk bed every night to sleep, so I'm not sure about the bunkhouse idea, unless the plan is a queen bed with a bunk room for grandkids?. Also, a 29' RV without a slide will get small really quickly, especially in full-time use mode. Course, some folks are quite happy in an R-pod, so to each his own. But I would look at a lot of models before making a decision.
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:44 PM   #22
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IMO this would be about as good as it gets.
https://www.granddesignrv.com/showro...rplans/315rlts
WOW, what does that gentleman cost???
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Old 11-16-2017, 01:34 PM   #23
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I can't thank all of you enough for your responses. We have a great deal of research to do. Thanks for all your help and ideas.
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:38 AM   #24
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My First question is this: Do you plan to travel a lot or park for months/years on end in one spot?

If you plan to move often then consider a Class A pulling a Mini-Van or car

One more suggestion at the end of this but WHY a Class A

Multiple reasons
1: Easier to back into a back in site
2: Class A or comparable 5ER or TT with big honking Truck to tow your MPG going down the highway is about the same.. But when you park the House and drive the Truck to the store for Milk, Bread, Coffee or To Church to sing in the chior.... Well... I get like 25 MPG with my 2001 Neon v's about 16 for the big honking truck.

Next: I just finished my semi-annual Major "Hike" of 800 miles, about 400 of them in RAIN.. No I travel on the Diabetic Travel plan (Diabetes is a Greek word meaning literally "Water Flows Easily") So what is the Diabetic Travel plan.. NEVER, EVER pass a rest stop unless it's within 5 minutes of your last Rest Stop (IE a couple miles from the flying J where I just refilled by coffee cup.....after "resting")

So you feel the need for the Rest Stop but it's pouring down rain.. Pulling that trrailer you gonna get wet.. Me in my Class A.. Not so much (Pull off, Go back to the head.. return to the driver's seat, never set foot outside)

Next: I once blew the engine in this beast (Ok so it was murdered but that's another story) I had a "Spare" vehicle.. Now I got lucky when the Engine went BOOM (And I mean BOOM!!!) My phone worked.. But I've beein in many places were NO SERVICE was the rule.. No matter who your carrier was NO SERVICE (I had both T-Mobiler, which can use AT&T Toweers, and Sprint when I had an issue.. Both did not work and Verizon as well.. A passer by went for help since it was the Towed that "Crashed" (Long story) I could have parked a passanger with the towed and driven the Motor home but the passer by sent a tow truck saving me the tribble)

Now the other suggestion I mentioned.

Again this applies more if you plan to travel.. I drink a lot of water (See "Diabetic travel plan" and though I'm still on the same wells I have been drinking from all summer just now (I just finished the "hike" have about 50 gallons left) when you move any distance the water changes.. This can lead to.... What I call "After effects" (Frequent and urgent trips to the "Little Room" or "inner office" as I call it also known as the Reading room, and of course the room where the paperwork is always finished)

A bath and a half model.. 2 holes, no waiting.
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Old 11-17-2017, 03:17 PM   #25
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[QUOTEWell... I get like 25 MPG with my 2001 Neon v's about 16 for the big honking truck.[/QUOTE]

I get up to 22 mpg in my "big honking truck" when not towing, lol. They aren't that bad. Course I don't do much honking.
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Old 11-17-2017, 04:04 PM   #26
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Wife and I are in the same scenario. We have a 1996 F20 7.3 TBD and bought a Coleman that we really liked the floor plan. The 250 will need a few upgrades like tranny rebuild and cooler but she's pretty much good to go. We have a Rampage lift to haul the Harley in the bed so on site travel is taken care of.

The Coleman is a work in progress. Lights will be upgraded. Mattress already done. TV installed and speakers upgraded. Brakes and suspension on the list. And the list goes on. But it will become exactly what I want and still keep the all aluminum frame and solid fiberglass exterior. And I can get it serviced nationwide.

Good luck to you and the missus. See you on the road
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Old 11-18-2017, 09:58 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by JUS1MO View Post
WOW, what does that gentleman cost???
I was at a dealer in Michigan's UP. I had already told him I wasn't looking to buy until next year. Without me asking he said (I'm paraphrasing) "of course, next year the price will go up. We'll probably sell it around $35,000 and the LT297rlts for around $32,000." I went right to my car and wrote those numbers down for future reference because I had expected the cost to be more.

I've not had as much experience as some on this forum. My first rv was a Jayco 28' (floor length) bunkhouse (kids were young) that was, probably, 32' overall length. By the way, most of the information you read will be overall length not floor length. That was 30 yrs. ago. I pulled it with a 3/4 ton Dodge pickup that I also used as my daily driver. (although, at my age now, I may need electron assistance to mount a 3/4 ton pickup)

My next rv was a 32' Bounder motorhome. I had six kids at the time and we had a blast. I can't think of a better way to go, if you have kids, than to have a motorhome. I was still working, but usually had two weeks off in the winter. The minute we left the driveway, the fun started for the kids. The 4 girls started playing board games around the dinette and the 2 boys went directly to the back bedroom to play computer games. In addition, we could get from the very cold Northern Michigan winter to the very warm, for us, Florida weather in one day. We would drive straight through with the wife and I taking turns driving and sleeping. One day later we're sleeping at our campsite in Florida. The big downside to a motorhome and a toad was maintennace, set-up, take-down and parking. It becomes a real hassle over time.

The next, and last, rv was a 22' Lazy Daze with no toad and no generator. We had 2 100w solar panels and a 225ah battery bank. We bought the motorhome because all the kids were gone and we wanted to spend a lot of the winter out of the cold. The 22' motorhome was easy to park (even parallel parked it a couple of times) and when in the west, with all their sunshine, never had to plug in. The battery bank never went below 78% that winter. It was a great coach, but was too small for long term. We sold it 3 yrs. ago and have been rv-less since.

I'm shopping now for a travel trailer under 30' total length. Why a travel trailer under 30'? Three reasons, in order of importance.

1. Maintenance and repair. This is a biggie. The advantage of being able to get your truck engine maintenance anywhere, as opposed to finding, and taking your motor home engine to a place for maintenance and repair is huge. I can do most maintenance on a trailer -- not so with the engine on either a truck or motor home -- especially a motor home. Also, I can leave the trailer in a nice campsite while the truck is worked on.

2. We like to boon dock or stay in state/provincial campgrounds that often have length restrictions and no hookups. I've done extensive motorcycle camping in the last three years and have always enjoyed these small campgrounds.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...4&d=1511022647

From Northern Michigan I've gone from the Saguenay Fiord in Northeastern Quebec to Alaska/Yukon in the great Northwest on my motorcycle. Always the small state and provincial campgrounds have had the most beauty and wildlife. A small trailer which is self contained is much easier to find nice campsites and boon docking sites. Also, boon docking in a relatives driveway becomes much easier when you can separate the length of your rv package.

3. A truck pulling a trailer will allow me to throw my motorcycle in the back of the pick up. Read number 2 above.

I know this has been long, but it would seem that bboy's needs are similar to mine.

I would suggest that a trailer that is under 30' in overall length will put you in the 24' to 26' floor length. I have found many this size that I, personally, could be comfortable for long term. I was the same as you in my thinking that I didn't need a slide out. None of my RV's had a slide out. There seems to, often, be maintenance problems with them. However, one slide creates so much more comfort, it has become a priority now for long term use. I wouldn't want more.

On the top of my list right now is the Highland Ridge MR2401RLS. I would only consider this, however, if I can add more grey water tankage. If I could get that done for under $1,000 or if I think I can do it myself, that unit would be my first choice. If you think about it, grey tank size is the most limiting consideration when camping in non-hookup situations. It's easy to add fresh water capacity and the black water tank, even if small, lasts a long time.
I know many times you can drain the grey water on the ground. But, there are many places that you cannot by law. Highland Ridge's above average customer service (notice I didn't say excellent customer service -- a real low in the rv industry) and light weight make me lean towards that model. It is legitimately pulled by a half ton pickup -- albeit, with possible modifications to the suspension of the half ton pickup.

The other trailer to make my list right now is the Denali 2462RLS. This trailer has great tankage and floor plan (subjective, I know) but is a 1,000 lbs. heavier than the MR2401RLS and, in my mind, puts it out of the half ton realm. Although, I'm sure many have pulled this amount of weight successfully with a half ton. The possible "con" with this trailer is the average, at best, (it's a low bar to meet don't ya' know in the rv indstry) customer service of Dutchmen products. I've heard, recently, that Dutchmen has improved their customer service. I've heard, don't really know if it's true, that Dutchmen has opened a facility in the last 2-3 years so than do a pre-delivery inspection on each unit instead of checking a few units each week.
And, since I'll do most of my own maintenance, this may not be as much concern.

That's the thought process I've been going through bboy. Hope your search goes well.

Be Well! Words of wisdom from KORKORO.
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Old 11-18-2017, 01:42 PM   #28
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Thanks for the responses and pics. I hope to cross paths with each and everyone of you. Have a great Thanksgiving everyone.
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