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Old 05-10-2016, 05:57 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Highway 4x4 View Post
The races need to be pressed in all the way,first, not by the bearings.
Absolutely with no exception. This is why I have bearing race drivers made just to do this. It would take a whole lot more than 50 ft. lbs. torque on a spindle nut to move a bearing race in a hub.
These races have to be set in place then the bearings go in.
Lynn
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:44 PM   #30
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Curious how you purchased a bearing without the race? They always come as a set. I would not take a trip with the bearing set-up that you described.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:18 PM   #31
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Absolutely with no exception. This is why I have bearing race drivers made just to do this. It would take a whole lot more than 50 ft. lbs. torque on a spindle nut to move a bearing race in a hub.
These races have to be set in place then the bearings go in.
Lynn
If course they should be pressed in place, but the torque will provide 1-3/4 tons of force and that will move the race.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:11 AM   #32
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LOL 50 ft lb of side pressure on those bearings is really not much. You curb your front wheel on your car and the shock load is probably higher. If the cup/race is not seated that 50 ft lb will probably no move the seat in the bore in most cases. Tightening the nut to seat the bearing is to just let the bearing find it's home and move the grease away. 50 ft lbs won't gall the races or damage the bearing. But 50 ft ls isn't needed to seat the bearing either. I would guess when I snug mine down with my channel lock pliers I am putting 20-30 lbs torque on them depending on what I had for breakfast. I normally snug the nut down and turn it a bit to move the grease around then loosen and set it where it needs to be.

LOL, now we need videos of guys with torque wrenches on those nuts! People get anal like that don't ya know.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:19 AM   #33
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On another note-----I managed to contaminate my brakes changing my wheel bearings. Gosh almighty I though I was super clean but obviously not. I know it was oily stuff on the surfaces of the drum I didn't get off, had to be. Next time after I clean them with brake cleaner to a spotless condition I'll sand the friction areas with 100 grit emery paper. I haven't torn it apart yet but my only guess is I failed to get possible grease out of the recessed lug nut bores at the surface the magnetic puck contacts. Oh well, these 8 year old brakes probably needed changing anyway. $50 a wheel gets me auto adjusting units from etrailer.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:55 AM   #34
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LOL 50 ft lb of side pressure on those bearings is really not much. You curb your front wheel on your car and the shock load is probably higher. If the cup/race is not seated that 50 ft lb will probably no move the seat in the bore in most cases. Tightening the nut to seat the bearing is to just let the bearing find it's home and move the grease away. 50 ft lbs won't gall the races or damage the bearing. But 50 ft ls isn't needed to seat the bearing either. I would guess when I snug mine down with my channel lock pliers I am putting 20-30 lbs torque on them depending on what I had for breakfast. I normally snug the nut down and turn it a bit to move the grease around then loosen and set it where it needs to be.

LOL, now we need videos of guys with torque wrenches on those nuts! People get anal like that don't ya know.
What part of 1 and 3/4 tons didn't you understand?
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Old 05-11-2016, 12:45 PM   #35
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What part of 1 and 3/4 tons didn't you understand?
?? Explain
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Old 05-11-2016, 12:49 PM   #36
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What part of 1 and 3/4 tons didn't you understand?
I just don't see seating the races via tightening the nut, they should already be seated. I was just saying tightening the nut ain't gonna damage the races with that small couple tons of pressure.
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Old 05-11-2016, 01:26 PM   #37
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I just don't see seating the races via tightening the nut, they should already be seated. I was just saying tightening the nut ain't gonna damage the races with that small couple tons of pressure.
Yes, we already said that they should be seated, but Dexter and others need to cover their south end so the instructions will insure the races are seated.

There are calculators online to determine force when torquing a fastener.
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:39 PM   #38
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If course they should be pressed in place, but the torque will provide 1-3/4 tons of force and that will move the race.
When a race isn't properly seated it is usually because it is not straight in the housing. I have seen these before where a 20 ton press had a struggle getting it to move. If someone brings a hub into my shop with a race only partially seated I drive the race out, check for galling of the hub and reinstall the race properly.
If anyone ever got a race to move with only 50 Ft. Lbs. on the spindle nut they had better play the lottery that day.
Lynn
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Old 05-11-2016, 04:14 PM   #39
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If anyone ever got a race to move with only 50 Ft. Lbs. on the spindle nut they had better play the lottery that day.
Lynn
Or buy new hubs.
Back years ago I worked on a F-250 for a guy who just bought it and it had a very slight front tire wobble. We swapped the wheels and spun them to see if it was the wheel, nope. So I took the hub off. Someone had J-B Welded the inner bearing race in as at some point the old race had spun in the bore. The bearing and race looked great, but it was offset just a tad. Went to the wrecking yard and got a new one. Good to go.
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