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Old 09-25-2016, 07:54 PM   #1
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Travel Tralier Weight Question

I'm thinking about buying a new TT but would like to get some thoughts on the weight of the TT and my vehicles GTW in Colorado (higher altitude).

TT:
31ft
Dry weight: 5,600lbs
Full Loaded: 7,600lbs. I wouldn't ever pack out that much. My average tow weight loaded would be around 6,300lbs

Tow Vehicle:
2015 Ram 1500
Crew Cab short bed=short wheel base
Max Tow Weight: 8,050LBS

I wonder if I'm pushing the limits of the truck due to high altitude. I've heard you want to subtract 20% off of the trucks max tow. If that's the case then I'll have a 6,440lbs max tow. Seems excessive to me, but I'm unsure and would like some advise.

Thanks in advance,
Paul
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Old 09-25-2016, 08:43 PM   #2
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Paul, don't believe that maximum tow weight for one second, it's just marketing hype. What counts is available payload of your tow vehicle, and you should base your figuring on the trailer's GVWR of 7600 pounds. Between 10 and 15% of the trailer's weight is going to land on the hitch of your tow vehicle. Just for fun call it 12%, so that's 912 pounds. What's your truck's maximum payload? (See the stickers on inside of the driver's door.) Remember, the payload includes all passengers, luggage and other stuff, fuel, etc., AND the trailer's tongue weight. You should not exceed the truck's rated payload capacity.

You'll find many, many tow capacity discussions here on IRV2. Do a search for them, they make for interesting reading.

Roger
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Old 09-25-2016, 08:58 PM   #3
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Roger, thanks for the reply. My payload is 1,600lbs. Seems I might be pushing it. Factor 2 adults 2 young kids 912lbs ish tounge weight and junk.
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:19 PM   #4
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Roger, thanks for the reply. My payload is 1,600lbs. Seems I might be pushing it. Factor 2 adults 2 young kids 912lbs ish tounge weight and junk.

YEP.....1600# payload gets eaten up REAL fast.

2 adults/2 kids.......ALL the stuff in cab (door pockets/seat pockets/under the seats/backpacks etc) plus weight of anything in truck bed, plus weight of hitch (stinger/drop shank--ball) and then the trailer tongue weight.

Also don't forget trucks RAWR (3900#) and trucks rear tire max load ratings
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:51 PM   #5
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I live in Colorado and had a similar setup. 2014 Ram 1500, Crew Cab, 4x4 with the factory air suspension. It had the same payload capacity & towing as yours. I towed my Arctic Fox that it's loaded weigh was 6,400 lbs. the truck had no issues at all, even crossing a few 12,000+ feet passes. Just ensure to use a lower gear for those grades.

Even though the 1500 did the job, I decided to upgrade to the 2500 6.7 Cummins. Double the torque and the exhaust brake is a nice option.

Your truck will be fine, just take it slow on the grades.
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:15 AM   #6
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The 20% deduction is more of a rule of thumb for power not weight. If you have the Hemi you should be just fine.
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:34 AM   #7
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Heck... I saw on TV a Toyota Tundra tow the space shuttle. Pullin' often is not the issue.... it's stopping. I prefer a 20% margin for towing up and down grades and if it's flat I see no reason to tow at the max.

Some minor suspension aids help control the sphincter factor.
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:46 AM   #8
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Any time your travel trailer is 50% heavier than the truck, it starts to get a little questionable.
Sure, it can pull it, but you want solid control. Tail wagging the dog is no good.
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:16 AM   #9
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I live in Colorado and had a similar setup. 2014 Ram 1500, Crew Cab, 4x4 with the factory air suspension. It had the same payload capacity & towing as yours. I towed my Arctic Fox that it's loaded weigh was 6,400 lbs. the truck had no issues at all, even crossing a few 12,000+ feet passes. Just ensure to use a lower gear for those grades.

Even though the 1500 did the job, I decided to upgrade to the 2500 6.7 Cummins. Double the torque and the exhaust brake is a nice option.

Your truck will be fine, just take it slow on the grades.
Thanks for the reply. It's good to know this information from someone with the same experience I'm about to walk into
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:26 AM   #10
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The 20% reduction figure is about loss of power due to lower oxygen levels at higher altitudes. Modern computerized engine controls do a fine job of managing the lower oxygen, but the reduction in power is still real. It has nothing to do with weight capacity of the vehicle, and you are already clear on how important those numbers are.

This is a pretty good discussion about the power loss at high altitude.
https://community.cartalk.com/t/what...rformance/7024
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:44 AM   #11
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Everyone thanks for the responses! Seems I need to do some more thinking......Hopefully I hear a few more thoughts on the matter
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Old 09-26-2016, 02:20 PM   #12
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Everyone thanks for the responses! Seems I need to do some more thinking......Hopefully I hear a few more thoughts on the matter
Look at adding RAS. https://www.activesuspension.com/
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Old 09-26-2016, 03:18 PM   #13
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A properly spec'd and adjusted weight distributing hitch with sway control is a better idea.
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Old 09-26-2016, 03:50 PM   #14
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A properly spec'd and adjusted weight distributing hitch with sway control is a better idea.
I agree. Get yourself a Equalizer, Husky Centerline, or any other hitch with trunnion bars. Some people swear by Andersen's weight distribution hitch (there were a few long term reliability complaints that steered me away this hitch but I suppose that could be found of any product). Just make sure either you or dealer takes the time to properly set it up and you'll be ok. IMO stay away from hitches with chains or separate sway bars that have to be constantly tightened/adjusted or removed just to back up or turn tightly.
I'm at my upper limit of the towing capacity of my tow vehicle (many here would accuse me of technically being overweight). I have a 4 point Equalizer brand hitch and I've never encountered sway or squireliness with side winds, passing trucks, going down steep grades, or sudden braking.
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