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12-06-2015, 09:33 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Alton, IL
Posts: 37
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TT sealant condition
Hello all,
I'm a newbie that just bought a small TT that have some leaks. While I do not see any evidence water damage in the interior, the seat/bed cushions do get wet where they touch the corners of the the front wall. I bought a few tubes of the Dicor 502LSW Self leveling sealant for the roof.
My question is regarding the sealant on the roof and does it need to removed & replaced? I have read the you can just apply the sealant over the cracked old sealant unless the cracks are too bad. With no experience at this, I am not sure how bad my sealant is. If I need to remove it or can I just clean it an seal over it. Attached are few pictures of the sealant condition around the roof vents.
I've have a few other question about the exterior corner trim, but I will save that for another post.
Thanks,
Paul
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12-06-2015, 09:39 AM
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#2
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Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Home of the 2015 Stanley Cup Champions
Posts: 35
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I've done it both ways before. Your gonna have to clean the area with mineral sprites or acetone.
__________________
2014 LaCrosse 323RST-TE-C
2009 CHEVY 2500HD Silverado Z71
2015 25 trips 73 nights
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12-06-2015, 09:43 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Gypsum, CO
Posts: 22
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TT sealant condition
Clean the complete roof to remove the sap & mildew. Then remove all the old caulk and clean the mating surfaces before reinstalling the new caulk.
A pressure washer will make the job go quicker, but if you are not experienced with a pressure washer use a bucket and brush. A pressure washer could cause more problems if your not experienced with them.
Before resealing the vents and exhaust fans inspect the curbs and plastic for cracks or rust.
If the plastic is very brittle than replace them now as removing the old caulk is the hardest part of the job.
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12-06-2015, 12:16 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Alton, IL
Posts: 37
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So you're suggesting I remove the old caulking? I have been keeping the roof dry by covering it with a tarp. I've read you should use a plastic putty knife with rounded edges to remove the caulk. the temperature is in the 40's right now, is it best I wait till spring or warmer weather to remove the old caulk? The caulk is very tough. I know it's going to be a hard job, but any tips to make it easier?
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12-07-2015, 04:53 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,580
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Warm it with a hair dryer.
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12-07-2015, 06:40 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Alton, IL
Posts: 37
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Thank you. I will try that.
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12-07-2015, 10:41 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Nowhere, now here. Freedom!
Posts: 4,602
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While you should redo that sealant, I am curious if the wetness you notice is not condensation. When I was in the Pacific North Wet on cold nights, the condensation could get bad, and it took coming to the desert to get the corners of my mattress to finally feel dry.
Try this, if you like: Take some newspaper and plastic film, like plastic wrap or "saran" wrap. Lay a layer or two against the wall where you think it's leaking. Put a layer of plastic film down, then put a layer or two of newspaper down, and replace your cushions and/or mattress. let it set like that for a full day or two, then check which side or sides have the moisture and how much. Might be interesting.
Or not.
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ORV 19B Full Timer from '15 to '20, '14 Ram 2500 Diesel and a GSD. Vancouver, WA
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12-08-2015, 07:25 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 5
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Sealer
Looking at your pics, the sealant appears in bad shape. So I would try to remove as much as possible by heating it with a hair dryer as posted above. On normal maintenance of the sealer, Dicor recommends cleaning the roof of all dirt and sap and only needing to remove any loose sealer. Then before applying the new sealer, wiping the old sealer with denatured alcohol, being careful not to spill the alcohol on the roof.
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12-08-2015, 08:04 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palm Coast Florida
Posts: 12,995
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I had my roof resealed by a dealer that used some really good stuff that almost looks like it was self leveling. I would not use normal chaulk from Home Depot or Lowes.
I read thru most of posts and did not see the really good sealeat mentioned.
I agree that all the old chaulk should be removed.
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12-14-2015, 09:37 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 293
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That last picture looks like a refrigerator vent, it is supposed to have a cover over it.
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12-14-2015, 08:01 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Alton, IL
Posts: 37
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I took off the old cover before I took the picture and to clean the the moldy sealant.
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12-15-2015, 08:06 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 293
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Great. I didn't mean to insult your intelligence, but I didn't know what a refrig. vent was when I got my TT...
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12-16-2015, 04:08 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 29
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............You really need to determine if the plywood under the rubber roof has been compromised due to moisture infiltration ! Also , I have just started using a Product called.........Flex Seal.......available at Wal Mart for ~$13 a can . It is an excellent product for sealing RV roof leaks , works and cures above 60F . The self leveling caulks don't do well when applied in moderately cold conditions .
.............Any , petroleum based product will , literally dissolve an EPDM , rubber roof , if applied too much ! You'd be much better off cleaning your roof with a soap like DAWN in warm water . Good luck with your trailer ! , santex
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12-24-2015, 07:41 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 310
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I would clean with acetone or mineral sprits. Use a product called Eternabond.
It is like a tape you can put right over the old caulk. Good for over 10 years.
Never worry about it again. Google Eternabond. There is a lot of good info on their web site. Very easy to apply. But prepping and cleaning good a must.
__________________
2015 Flagstaff Super V Trailer
Model 26VFKS
Towing with F150 Crew cab 5.0L
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