Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > Travel Trailer Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-07-2015, 04:49 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Viva Las Vegas
Posts: 251
TT without "polar package" questions

My TT did not come with a polar package or any insulation on the bottom of the RV.

1) What temp should I worry about freezing the tanks/lines? I assume around 30F and below because at 32 it would take a while. But then again it may speed up with a wind chill.

2) Has anyone insulated their belly on their own? Im thinking of running a couple metal straps across the belly and attaching the same type of belly liner that most rvs come with now days.
__________________

__________________
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT CC 4x4
Zac808 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-07-2015, 06:31 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,208
You'll not only have to insulate the space underneath, but also check where the water and sewer lines run. If any parts are in un insulated compartments or running in walls, they could be an issue. Besides adding insulation, you might add some heating pads or the like under your tanks if they are in unheated spaces.
__________________

__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2015, 07:28 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
TDI-Minnie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,732
Do you mean while camping or in storage?
__________________
2013 Winnebago 2301BH-Red
2012 Ram 2500 Megacab HO CTD
TDI-Minnie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2015, 07:40 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sandy, Utah
Posts: 181
Unlike Copper lines or PVC most RV's have flexible line that can handle freezing and not crack. Fittings, shower heads, faucets, pumps, water heaters can be damaged. I'm saying it may be ok for some lines to freeze and actually have a toilet not flow if the tubing is frozen at 30 but it may take many hours for critical things to freeze. Especially if you have warm sunny days and the heater on at night.. opening cabinet doors under facets at night and things can really help. I have camped for a week at about 26 at night and 50 during the day... I just used a pan of water from the sink to flush the toilet until about 10 am when everything thawed out again. not ideal but until you inspect where the lines are exposed at you dont know.
__________________
elkski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2015, 09:32 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA (Stick & Brick)
Posts: 2,623
Our Class A had the "Artic Pak". Georgetown's poor spelling was the indicator that the system was a real turkey.

It only heated the grey and black tanks, using small (maybe 7" x 3") elements stuck to the bottom of the tanks - 2 on each). They drew 7 amps each from the house DC system.

They system had no sensors to ensure there was fluid in the tanks. The non-adjustable thermostats switched on at 40F and stayed on until the contents got to 64F.

I couldn't see wasting 28 amps from the house DC system to heat sewage to 64 F, or risking melting a hole in the tanks if the system was inadvertently switched on when they were empty.

IMO, this is the dumbest accessory system being foisted off onto the RV community. It needs many additional safeguards to make it worth the trouble.
__________________
Frank Damp -Anacortes, WA,(DW- Eileen)
ex-pat Brits (1968) and ex-RVers.
frankdamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2015, 11:41 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Viva Las Vegas
Posts: 251
Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI-Minnie View Post
Do you mean while camping or in storage?
For camping.
__________________
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT CC 4x4
Zac808 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 06:21 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
lgarcia's Avatar
 
Pond Piggies Club
Appalachian Campers
Forest River Owners Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 545
If at a campground with electric and it unexpectedly got cold, you could skirt the exposed area from ground to frame with plastic sheeting or trash bags and put some milk house heaters or even drop lights under there.

If wintering over and wanting to have a more permanent cover for the exposed area, you could use mobile home skirting, hay bales, or RV skirting that attaches to the frame.

But, this depends on duration of cold weather. We live and camp where it can stay below freezing for weeks. The TT gets winterized by mid November and stays that way until mid April. I run low wattage electric heaters inside.

Any camping is done with water containers and we use portable toilets. It is worth having it winterized for peace of mind.
__________________
-Laura
2016 Shasta Oasis 18BH, 2015 Ram1/2 ton Hemi
lgarcia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 07:30 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
tuffr2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palm Coast Florida
Posts: 2,454
Hay bales / straw may draw in mice and other critters. Critters would think the hay/straw will make a nice warm home.

I had my 3 season trailer in 19 degree weather for a short time. The key is a short time. This was in northern Florida when the sun came out the temp rose to 55 degrees. I did not do anything to my trailer and stayed in North Florida all winter with out a problem. A few times the temp dropped to 25 degrees but just for a few hours.

If you are staying where the night's get cold but days are in the 50's and 60's you can leave the water drip to keep it from freezing at night.

Just so you know most polar packs are really not that good. Many trailers require the gas furnace to run continually. My 5th wheel with the all season package is not insulated very well at all.
__________________
tuffr2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 08:22 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
garbonz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 620
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankdamp View Post
Our Class A had the "Artic Pak". Georgetown's poor spelling was the indicator that the system was a real turkey.

It only heated the grey and black tanks, using small (maybe 7" x 3") elements stuck to the bottom of the tanks - 2 on each). They drew 7 amps each from the house DC system.

They system had no sensors to ensure there was fluid in the tanks. The non-adjustable thermostats switched on at 40F and stayed on until the contents got to 64F.

I couldn't see wasting 28 amps from the house DC system to heat sewage to 64 F, or risking melting a hole in the tanks if the system was inadvertently switched on when they were empty.

IMO, this is the dumbest accessory system being foisted off onto the RV community. It needs many additional safeguards to make it worth the trouble.
If the system turns off at 64 degF and the senso is on the pad, how praytell is it going to melt the tank. Not sure of the physics on your contention, nor have I ever heard of this happening to anyone. I think it is a pretty good system if you are hooked up to shore power and your converter has enough capacity to handle the load.

Lets be reasonable here. Are there any instances where these pads have melted an RV tank? I'd like the hear the circomstances of that.
__________________
2005 Bigfoot 1500C8.2 Truck Camper; MANY mods, to many to list
2007 Chevy 2500 Duramax Std Bed Ext Cab
garbonz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 08:39 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
wthesing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 115
FWIW,
If you are considering enclosing the underbelly, do yourself s favor and forget the Coroplast material that is commonly used. Instead use FOAM PVC SHEETING. It is much more durable for impact resistance, can be attached with sheet metal screws, is available in different thicknesses/colors, withstands wide temp ranges, and can be cut with a sabre saw, router, etc. It is more expensive, and I guess that is why the mfgrs don't use it. It will be one of my 1st mods on my new rig after I get it.

Regards,

Bill
__________________
Creekside 23RBS or Lance 2295 ????
2013 Ford E-250
Location: S.E. Penna.
wthesing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 09:24 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA (Stick & Brick)
Posts: 2,623
Garbonz:

The tanks in my rig were polyethylene. I would not have been surprised if the localized heat load with 84 watts over 30 square inches had been enough to damage the tank. Since we never camped in freezing weather, and never left fluids in the rig when it was parked at home, maybe I was being a bit paranoid.

I left a wiring diagram in the rig when it was sold on consignment, so that whoever bought it would know. I also put a "Disconnected" label next to the switch.
__________________
Frank Damp -Anacortes, WA,(DW- Eileen)
ex-pat Brits (1968) and ex-RVers.
frankdamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 09:29 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
rbleau6885's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Mass
Posts: 292
we lived in a 98 hornet 38ft aluminum sided park model (which I still own)for 3 years in a row all I did was skirt the bottom with blue insulation board put insulation plastic on the windows and insulation pads in the roof vents. We used a 120pound propane tank with 2 30s and a energy efficient electric heater to help it out. Kept my 48gallon fresh water tank full which is under a front bunk bed and that was it I kept it about 70 inside and we got down in the negatives a lot of nights never had a water line freeze and my tanks for exposed with no heating pads under the trailer and never did they freeze


Rich,24
2014 wildwood 27rlss
2005 Chevy 2500HD crew cab
__________________
Rich,242014 wildwood 27RLSS travel trailer
2005 Chevy Silverado 2500HD crew cab
2005 GMC Sierra 3500 single cab dump
rbleau6885 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 09:30 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 16,208
Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz View Post
If the system turns off at 64 degF and the senso is on the pad, how praytell is it going to melt the tank. Not sure of the physics on your contention, nor have I ever heard of this happening to anyone. I think it is a pretty good system if you are hooked up to shore power and your converter has enough capacity to handle the load.

Lets be reasonable here. Are there any instances where these pads have melted an RV tank? I'd like the hear the circomstances of that.
There you go, injecting science into a perfectly good rant.

- - - - retired science educator
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 01:07 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
bjlakatos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 885
I have a sealed underbelly and it's insulated, we get down below freezing occasionally with no probs. My unit uses furnace air to keep tanks from freezing, One thing I didn't anticipate when it got down to 17 my gray valve froze. We happen to be leaving that day and I wanted to drain. it was a job for the wife's blow dryer!
__________________

__________________
Brian
2016 RAM 3500 6.7L DRW
2018 Chaparral 360IBL, Andersen Ultimate II hitch
bjlakatos is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Newbie questions JD11 Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 4 08-19-2015 01:04 PM
Recommendation for Generator Questions BadLarry Vintage RV's 2 12-15-2014 03:32 PM
A handful of newbie questions pdmlynek iRV2.com General Discussion 18 08-27-2014 06:18 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.