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guestPacer · 04-08-2015, 05:14 PM

Hi I have an Atwood combo hot water tank located in my 1999 Fleetwood Prowler everything has been working great. I've hosed out and cleaned with vinegar and fired it up using gas and then drain. I haven't used the electric side in a while and I decided during this thunder storm I'd open the inside access panel up located next to toilet (not a lot of room but do able. anyway after getting access (breaker off) and pulling a couple connectors I put a 1.5(6 point) socket on it with a standard length 1/2 " drive to it and it didn't move. Went an sprayed a release agent on it without any confidence knowing that there was a rubber/silicone seal but I tried. Next I went over to the shop and got my 18" breaker bar and put a little pressure on it and still nothing. Well, done for now but then I had an idea and that was fill the tank heat the water and element up drain (with proper clothing) see if it will break loose. Being aluminum it may cool down to quickly.
An yes this has been on sense the original owner I've owned sense 05' and yes I agree this element should Never stay in that long

when their reasonably inexpensive. Depending on your water source every 2 years. My sockets not slipping but I'll look at a element install /removal tool just for giggles.
Any Ideas? besides

I 'm doing it also.

Ray,IN · 04-08-2015, 05:50 PM

Have you engaged the 120VAC heater element to see if it works first?

guestPacer · 04-09-2015, 12:22 AM

The last time I operated it 120 it worked. Plans are to fill in the morning and run for a while and see if the element will break loose.

guestPacer · 04-09-2015, 06:34 PM

Well I finally got it loose and yes it was the OE. I did run an OHM test before and to verify after removing... it's died.
I've ordered one off Ebay for 22.00 but I ask you this has anyone purchased one of the ones sold at Lowes or Home Depot? Their 1500 watts and an inch shorter element that's just under a .8 amp higher draw and $9.00. Waiting to heard but, I may have to try

Bucky Badger · 04-09-2015, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guestPacer

Well I finally got it loose and yes it was the OE. I did run an OHM test before and to verify after removing... it's died.
I've ordered one off Ebay for 22.00 but I ask you this has anyone purchased one of the ones sold at Lowes or Home Depot? Their 1500 watts and an inch shorter element that's just under a .8 amp higher draw and $9.00. Waiting to heard but, I may have to try

I asked about that on another forum and everyone said it's fine to use one. I bought one at Menards...1500w works fine. I was tempted to get the 2000w but might start tripping breakers

Ray,IN · 04-10-2015, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guestPacer

Well I finally got it loose and yes it was the OE. I did run an OHM test before and to verify after removing... it's died.
I've ordered one off Ebay for 22.00 but I ask you this has anyone purchased one of the ones sold at Lowes or Home Depot? Their 1500 watts and an inch shorter element that's just under a .8 amp higher draw and $9.00. Waiting to heard but, I may have to try

That's where I always buy replacement elements, there is nothing special about them. I always upgrade the element wattage from the OEM 1,200 to 1,500, reduces recovery time and has negligible effect on total current draw from shore power.

guestPacer · 04-15-2015, 10:17 AM

Well I installed the Home depot element(after market) and everything works fine. I did notice that besides being a shorter rod lop they were thinner then the OEM Atwood replacement. Having said that if a person had time on their hands to do a test to see which element heated your water faster the shorter higher 1500 watt element or the larger more area surface 1400 watt element. I'd say the 1400 is faster because of the density of the rod and length.No I don't have the time either

My ebay order came in (Atwood) and for now I'll just put it in the supply drawer nothing wrong with a back-up for now.