Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > Travel Trailer Discussion
Click Here to Login
Register FilesVendors Registry Blogs FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-08-2018, 09:38 PM   #1
Member
 
jbrandt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 56
TV seems to bounce easily

Hello everyone,

I have a 2018 Winnebago Micro Minnie, 3200# dry, and a 2017 4Runner as my TV.

The trailer tows great, it doesn't sway, even with minimal friction on my anti-sway, and with the WD hitch the 4Runner hardly squats under the weight.

My issue is that when I hit some undulations (woops) in the road, the trailer/truck will start to bounce, but more like the rear of my truck will squat and bounce. There were a few road sections I had to slow to ~40mph before it was driveable.

I'm fairly sure it's not over loaded or has too much hitch weight, though I have not weighed it. I only have a couple hundred pound of junk inside (I did weigh most of the unk I was putting in it).

Could this be an adjustment with my WD hitch? I was considering airbags before I brought it home (assumed the trunck wouldn't handle the hitch weight), but seeing that it doesn't squat very much I didn't think they were necessary anymore, but maybe they are? Or possibly replace the boat-like stock shocks with some gas Bilsteins might help?

Thoughts?
jbrandt is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-09-2018, 08:10 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Skip426's Avatar


 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,442
Being " fairly sure " about weights is not a good idea.
This is info you need to know!

Take your truck and trailer out; loaded for travel ;( people , pets and gear) and getting it weighed , is your first step. You'll need the TV axle weights and that of the trailer and then re-weigh the TV axels without the trailer . Then you can start comparing that info to your vehicles ratings.
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
Skip426 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2018, 09:04 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 587
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrandt View Post
Hello everyone,

I have a 2018 Winnebago Micro Minnie, 3200# dry, and a 2017 4Runner as my TV.

The trailer tows great, it doesn't sway, even with minimal friction on my anti-sway, and with the WD hitch the 4Runner hardly squats under the weight.

My issue is that when I hit some undulations (woops) in the road, the trailer/truck will start to bounce, but more like the rear of my truck will squat and bounce. There were a few road sections I had to slow to ~40mph before it was driveable.i

I'm fairly sure it's not over loaded or has too much hitch weight, though I have not weighed it. I only have a couple hundred pound of junk inside (I did weigh most of the unk I was putting in it).

Could this be an adjustment with my WD hitch? I was considering airbags before I brought it home (assumed the trunck wouldn't handle the hitch weight), but seeing that it doesn't squat very much I didn't think they were necessary anymore, but maybe they are? Or possibly replace the boat-like stock shocks with some gas Bilsteins might help?

Thoughts?
May need a larger tow vehicle.
__________________
John and Susan. New 2018 Chevrolet 2500 2 WHD . 6.6 Duramax 3.73 rearend. .4 door ,Short, Bed W/Topper. 2017 Grand Design 297 RSTS. Our rescue dog Annie. Still ,Full timing since 07-01-2011. No sticks and bricks.
poppopc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2018, 11:07 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
keymastr's Avatar
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,539
You are certainly overloaded. Your vehicle has a maximum tongue weight rating of 500 pounds and your dry weight plus the weight of the WD hitch itself puts you at or over that. If you have passengers and gear in the car as well you are even more overloaded.

You don't mention which Minnie you have but the weights listed start at 3000 and then jump to 3800. If yours is the smaller one you may be just under the limit EMPTY but nobody camps without clothing, food, equipment, water and friends or family. You need a more capable vehicle, no question about it. Airbags or other mods will not change your weight carrying ability.
__________________
2020 F28 RKS Titanium
2017 Creekside 23 RBS Sold
2016 F250 Super Crew XLT Overworked
keymastr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2018, 04:44 PM   #5
Member
 
jbrandt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 56
Thanks for the replies everyone.

I definitely don't need a bigger vehicle. Even at max weight, the 1700BH is still 1200 pounds under the max tow load of my 4Runner. I don't tow it with water, either - I fill up when I get to a spot.

I did go out and weigh my tongue, and I do appear a tad on the heavy side however, so I'll be rearranging some of my cargo to the rear hatch instead of the front.

For fairly smooth roads it drives very nicely, it's only when I get to a spot (one section of road in particular) where there are several repeating undulations in the road where the hitch starts to bounce a bit. It's a little hairy even when not towing.

I 've been thinking about building a cargo rack for the rear bumper, now that I know the hitch is a tad heavy, this is definitely something to try.
jbrandt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2018, 07:48 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,582
If the head is adjustable try tilting it down a bit more. The extra lift will reduce weight on the rear axle, add more to the steering axle and trailer axles. It'll also stiffen up your ride a bit. Since you don't carry much in the trailer its unlikely it will put too much weight on the axle but if in doubt weight it on the scales.

While a cargo rack on the back of the trailer can be used to reduce tongue weight you've also effectively extended the length of the trailer without moving the axles. With that extra weight hanging out back there's a possibility it could introduce some fishtailing tendencies that wasn't there before.

As mentioned you really load up your rig in travel mode and get it weighed.
60sumtin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2018, 08:18 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
jlechmanik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrandt View Post
Thanks for the replies everyone.

I definitely don't need a bigger vehicle. Even at max weight, the 1700BH is still 1200 pounds under the max tow load of my 4Runner. I don't tow it with water, either - I fill up when I get to a spot.

I did go out and weigh my tongue, and I do appear a tad on the heavy side however, so I'll be rearranging some of my cargo to the rear hatch instead of the front.

For fairly smooth roads it drives very nicely, it's only when I get to a spot (one section of road in particular) where there are several repeating undulations in the road where the hitch starts to bounce a bit. It's a little hairy even when not towing.

I 've been thinking about building a cargo rack for the rear bumper, now that I know the hitch is a tad heavy, this is definitely something to try.

Nobody goes over max tow rate. That means little. You should be looking at your cargo weight and max vehicle weight. That is the weight of your vehicle with full fuel, your passengers, your passengers crap, AND the tongue weight. Most run out of this LONG before their max towing weight....
__________________
2017 RAM 2500 Tradesman 4x4 CTD CC LB
2017 Jayco Jayflight 28BHBE
Prior 2011 Jayco Greyhawk 26DS
jlechmanik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 09:00 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrandt View Post
. Even at max weight, the 1700BH is still 1200 pounds under the max tow load of my 4Runner. I don't tow it with water, either - I fill up when I get to a spot.
And, after a visit to the CAT scale on the way to the campsite, I can confirm that I'm 3,540lbs under the max tow load of my Expedition. I can also confirm that I'm right at the max rear axle weight rating. That said, I had similar trouble with porpoising when I brought the trailer home from storage last month. I went up a link on the weight distribution bars and the problem went away.
__________________
2013 ORV Creek Side 18CK
2018 Expedition Max FX4
shane_the_ee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 05:26 PM   #9
Member
 
jbrandt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by shane_the_ee View Post
And, after a visit to the CAT scale on the way to the campsite, I can confirm that I'm 3,540lbs under the max tow load of my Expedition. I can also confirm that I'm right at the max rear axle weight rating. That said, I had similar trouble with porpoising when I brought the trailer home from storage last month. I went up a link on the weight distribution bars and the problem went away.

I take that to mean you went one link shorter on the chain(s) on your WD hitch, correct?


Thanks again. I definitely have some experimenting to with the WD hitch and distributing the cargo.


Thanks!
jbrandt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2018, 05:46 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrandt View Post
I take that to mean you went one link shorter on the chain(s) on your WD hitch, correct?
Yes, exactly.
__________________
2013 ORV Creek Side 18CK
2018 Expedition Max FX4
shane_the_ee is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
ems



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
National RV, Rear CAT overheats too easily Bonanza45D Caterpillar Engine Forum 57 05-07-2012 03:14 PM
Something easily overlooked in maintenance 336muffin iRV2.com General Discussion 22 04-17-2012 06:45 PM
Slide slow to extend but easily came in lesbal MH-General Discussions & Problems 3 11-04-2010 01:10 PM
Flipped Axles but now it seems to bounce.. Help suebruce Travel Trailer Discussion 22 05-04-2005 05:30 AM
Easily removable notched tailgate? Myotis 5th Wheel Discussion 16 02-07-2005 12:03 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.