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Old 05-11-2016, 10:16 PM   #1
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Uneducated rookie

As the title says, I am a rookie to the rv world. My current issue is only half the wall outlets are working using a generator. Also the moment I start the AC unit the generator kick out due to overload. The generator is a brand new honda EU3000is. The manual states my AC is a 10k btu unit so the generator should be plenty to operate the AC.

From some of my research I have found that turning on the fan first will reduce the power requirement. Is this a correct statement?

As for the wall sockets, will the overload on the generator have any factor? The converter is inteli-power 9100. Reading some of the troubleshooting guide mentioned too much power can cause these tyoe of issues.

Will some of you experienced RVers be willing to share some of your knowledge would be awesome and greatly appreciated.

**edited**
2000 Fleetwood Mallard 29F
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:33 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Newbie71 View Post
As the title says, I am a rookie to the rv world. My current issue is only half the wall outlets are working using a generator. Also the moment I start the AC unit the generator kick out due to overload. The generator is a brand new honda EU3000is. The manual states my AC is a 10k btu unit so the generator should be plenty to operate the AC.

From some of my research I have found that turning on the fan first will reduce the power requirement. Is this a correct statement?

As for the wall sockets, will the overload on the generator have any factor? The converter is inteli-power 9100. Reading some of the troubleshooting guide mentioned too much power can cause these tyoe of issues.

Will some of you experienced RVers be willing to share some of your knowledge would be awesome and greatly appreciated.
I'm a newbie also, and can't help with your issue but suggest you describe your vehicle(s) in detail. People are anxious to help so the more info you supply the more likely it is you'll get your issues resolved. Good luck, Mike
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:46 PM   #3
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As far as the outlets, look for a GFCI outlet. They are wired to protect The outlet in them and outlets down the line from them.

Do all the outlets work while plugged in to house power ?

What about the AC ?

What is cutting out on the Honda ?

Are you powering a 50 amp cord with a 30 amp adaptor to the generator. If you are, is it a proper adaptor.
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:49 PM   #4
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As far as the outlets, look for a GFCI outlet. They are wired to protect The outlet in them and outlets down the line from them.

Do all the outlets work while plugged in to house power ?

What about the AC ?

What is cutting out on the Honda ?
When connected to city or shore power everything works. At least the laat time it was connected.

The camper was a seasonal camper, my parents never moved the camper from the rv park and always used shore power, the laat time being this past December and has never operated under generator power
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:56 PM   #5
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Is it a 50 amp camper, 4 blade plug ?

What adaptor are you using if it is.

Do you have an electric water heater on when you turn on the AC ?
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:00 PM   #6
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Is it a 50 amp camper, 4 blade plug ?

What adaptor are you using if it is.

Do you have an electric water heater on when you turn on the AC ?
30 amp, 2 blade 1 round. Using L5-30 adapter for the generator. As for the water heater I am not sure if it is one. Should I be flipping the breaker for the water heater?
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:10 PM   #7
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BTU (British Thermal Units) is an old school way of describing heating/cooling/cooking abilility of a certain device, and in no way describes the amp/watt draw of said device. (Although there is a correlation). An electrical device has an amp draw, AND a startup draw on the generator. Your 3000 wont run everything at once, although it's a great genny. Pull your manual on the AC, and you'll see what I'm talking about.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:13 PM   #8
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BTU (British Thermal Units) is an old school way of describing heating/cooling/cooking abilility of a certain device, and in no way describes the amp/watt draw of said device. (Although there is a correlation). An electrical device has an amp draw, AND a startup draw on the generator. Your 3000 wont run everything at once, although it's a great genny. Pull your manual on the AC, and you'll see what I'm talking about.
I understand it will not run everything at once. Do I need to flip breakers to prevent things like the water heater and refrigerator from working the moment the generator is fired up?
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:13 PM   #9
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water heater

some units have an electric heating element if that is on I would reduce your avalible power for outher things like the a/c . if you start just the fan on the a/c first before going to cool it will reduce the starting draw a little.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:19 PM   #10
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If it were me, I'd run the fridge and WH on propane. Start the genny, wait 30 seconds or so, then the AC. After that you can flip the fridge if you want, but a 3000 is real borderline or even over for a WH and AC. Plus you have battery charging, lights, TV, Radio, etc. FWIW, I LOVE Honda generators!
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:21 PM   #11
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If it were me, I'd run the fridge and WH on propane. Start the genny, wait 30 seconds or so, then the AC. After that you can flip the fridge if you want, but a 3000 is real borderline or even over for a WH and AC. Plus you have battery charging, lights, TV, Radio, etc. FWIW, I LOVE Honda generators!
So I will try by flipping the breaker on both the fridge and water heater.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:25 PM   #12
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I'm not a fan of flipping breakers....if you mean in the electrical panels. Everytime you flip one it weakens it just a wee bit. Over time it will fail. Just run what you can on propane. The fridge uses sooooo little it's amazing. The WH is only needed when you need it, and they heat very quickly on LPG.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:31 PM   #13
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I'm not a fan of flipping breakers....if you mean in the electrical panels. Everytime you flip one it weakens it just a wee bit. Over time it will fail. Just run what you can on propane. The fridge uses sooooo little it's amazing. The WH is only needed when you need it, and they heat very quickly on LPG.
So there is power switches on each then? i know there is an option on the fridge to choose between electric or propane. As for the water heater I do not know how to power up or down.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:35 PM   #14
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Correct. Just choose 'Gas' on the fridge. For the water heater you'll have 2 switches. If it's like mine....the electric is red and the same size as a light switch. The gas is a red toggle, and is probably next to your water pump toggle. Caveate---------different MHs use different switches.
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