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Old 05-18-2013, 10:56 PM   #1
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Water Damage and Roof Repair

So my buddy and I are tackling a roof repair on his travel trailer... 3 weeks out from our big whirlwind tour of the west, and we need some guidance... FAST! We're pretty handy, but we definitely need some pointers on the intricacies of this project.

As you can see in the photos, we've just about got everything torn apart that needs to be. The leak was where the rubber roof met the fiberglass that wraps the front of the camper. There is a fair amount of water damage to the wood on the roof (luan?) and we'll have to replace the first sheet on the roof from the front of the camper back to the first "rafter" or "joist" (about 4'). Also, water made it's way down behind the fiberglass on the front, and whatever was glued to the back of the fiberglass (looks like cardboard) is "no more." We will be completely removing the entire front piece of fiberglass...

So here are my questions:

1) Can the rubber roof be pulled away from the first sheet of luan that it's glued to in order to facilitate removal and replacement of the luan? We pulled a little bit of it back, but it's not very easy and plenty of luan sticks to the rubber.

2) The roof had previously been repaired (poorly) and the rubber doesn't even reach the fiberglass. We were hoping to buy a 12" wide strip of rubber roofing material to use as a patch (providing we can get the old rubber roof pulled away from the luan without damaging it). Is this acceptable, and if so what are the best sealants/adhesives to use to make this patch actually be water proof?

2a) What type of adhesive do we use between the new luan and the rubber roof?

3) What in the world is the cardboard-like stuff behind the fiberglass on the front? We need to replace it since the other stuff just fell apart. What type of adhesive do we use between the cardboard and the fiberglass, and between the cardboard and the camper?

4) How do we get what's left of the 'cardboard' and glue off of the fiberglass so we have a clean surface to glue the new "cardboard" to?

I think that's all for now... and and all help will be greatly appreciated.

-cheers

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Old 05-19-2013, 12:04 AM   #2
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You tube has some great DIY Videos.

Replacing Your RV Roof - YouTube

Motor Home RV Roof Replacement How-to at Leale's RV Service RV Repair in Gilroy, CA - YouTube

EternaBond How to remove and replace - YouTube
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piker View Post
1) Can the rubber roof be pulled away from the first sheet of luan that it's glued to in order to facilitate removal and replacement of the luan? We pulled a little bit of it back, but it's not very easy and plenty of luan sticks to the rubber. You need to remove the entire sheet of rubber, replace bad decking, then reapply new rubber.

2) The roof had previously been repaired (poorly) and the rubber doesn't even reach the fiberglass. We were hoping to buy a 12" wide strip of rubber roofing material to use as a patch (providing we can get the old rubber roof pulled away from the luan without damaging it). Is this acceptable, and if so what are the best sealants/adhesives to use to make this patch actually be water proof?

Replace it all. Don't cheap out and have this problem again.

2a) What type of adhesive do we use between the new luan and the rubber roof?

Dicor rubber roof glue. I forget the PN right now.

3) What in the world is the cardboard-like stuff behind the fiberglass on the front? We need to replace it since the other stuff just fell apart. What type of adhesive do we use between the cardboard and the fiberglass, and between the cardboard and the camper?

It probably was luan that the phylon was glued to to make the wall. The wall was probably just secured with the trim on the edges. Maybe some contact adhesive on studs.

4) How do we get what's left of the 'cardboard' and glue off of the fiberglass so we have a clean surface to glue the new "cardboard" to?

I'd just get a new sheet of phylon and luan.


Replied in red.
I know it's expensive, but if you cheap out, you'll regret it, I promise.

Remove everything holding the rubber down. All trim, vents, AC, EVERYTHING. Clean all of them for reapplication.
Pull the rubber off.
Replace all bad wood and probably studs under it too.
Roll out new rubber, glue it down. Tuck it under the front and rear seams.
Apply plenty of butyl putty to all trim pieces and vents. Screw it all down.
Trim the leftover putty, Dicor 501LSW over all seams and screw heads. Done.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:41 PM   #4
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Well, thanks for the links and advice everyone... I need just a little more.

We ended up having to tear the front panel off clean down to the floor, and tearing off the roof back about 4'. The reconstruction is all complete (and looks really good so far actually) except for reattaching the fiberglass panel that covers the front of the trailer... and that's where we're having issues. The wall panels have some water damage/delamination along the top edge where they meet the front panels, and they're sprung outward just enough that the aluminum corner strips with the vinyl inserts won't quite cover everything they need to cover anymore... they are solid enough to justify just putting them back together, but IS THERE SUCH A THING AS AN EXTRA WIDE OUTSIDE CORNER STRIP/VINYL INSERT MOLDING? The current molding is 1.25" wide and hangs over the side wall about .250 or so. I found some 1.750" wide molding here, but the vinyl strip is the same distance from the edge as a regular strip, so our screws still might not reach the aluminum in the front panel frame. Any ideas or alternatives? We've done a fairly good job I think so far on this repair, so we don't want to start hacking it together now. Just covering the joint with eternabond or something similar is not an option at this point... if it's not fixed by the time we leave on our big trip in a few weeks, then all bets are off, but we're not there yet.

thanks in advance
cheers
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:47 PM   #5
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Basically finding some sort of corner trim to cover it is what you'll need to do.
Can you flatten the walls, drop screws to temp. hold and then put trim down to hide the screws?
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:09 AM   #6
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Basically finding some sort of corner trim to cover it is what you'll need to do.
Can you flatten the walls, drop screws to temp. hold and then put trim down to hide the screws?
I think one of the issues with the water damage is that the original trim didn't hardly cover down over the sides much at all even from the factory... and also the screws holding the trim piece down were at the very edge of the aluminum frame underneath... and now that the wood has "expanded" (warped?) to an extra 1/2" or so in total width right at the front, the trim pieces don't reach over the front far enough to be able to screw them into the aluminum frame either. The sides are still solid, and next to impossible to push them in.

I've been searching and searching and so far I haven't come up with a corner trim that's wide enough to really be effective. If the front of the trailer wasn't curved, it might be easier to find any old piece of L-shaped aluminum extrusion... but since the trim needs to be bent to match the curve, the edge that hangs over the sides can't be very long or it won't bend straight.

still looking for ideas... alternatives...

cheers
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