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Old 08-10-2014, 06:41 PM   #15
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Right now, there is a lot of assumption as to what brand of WH this is.

Suburban has an external 120V switch, and may or may not have an internal (in the RV) 120V switch besides the breaker. That is up to the RV manufacturer.

Old Atwoods were the same way, but their 120V switch was on the back of the WH.
New Atwoods usually don't have a 120V switch on the WH itself, as it is controlled by a 12V relay on the control board, controlled by a 12V switch in the RV itself.
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:03 PM   #16
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I'm in Same mess

Trying to figure what valve should be in what position! I have 4 valves behind tank. One looks like a drain, closed. One looks like coming from fresh tank, open. One comes out of elec pump, into blue plastic then hits a T where bottom leg goes to a valve and blue pipe into tank. Other leg of T hits a valve then becomes red pipe then another T that ties into top of HW tank and other side goes into floor.
I'm thinking valve that has both blue and red should be closed, maybe was only open for winterizing by dealer. If left open wouldn't it back feed into cold? Wish I could figure how to add pic
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:21 PM   #17
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This is one way they are normally plumbed. Water flows in bottom cold, and out top hot. The by-pass 'cut off' is normally closed except when you want to by-pass flow through the tank to winterize.

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Old 08-17-2014, 10:22 PM   #18
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Thanks everyone. I found the on/off switch behind the outside panel in the bottom left. From what Palomino explained, if that switch is flipped on, it will work on electric and not gas. Then you just use the toggle switch inside the RV as you would if using gas.

Still haven't found the bypass, but didn't actual look, spent the weekend putting up two flat panel TV's, one in master Bdrm and one in LvRm, oh yea, and moving the toilet paper holder, it was screwed into the wall preventing the lid from being raised, real smart huh. Now I have to find caulk to fill four holes in BR wall.
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:31 PM   #19
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Thanks everyone. I found the on/off switch behind the outside panel in the bottom left. From what Palomino explained, if that switch is flipped on, it will work on electric and not gas. Then you just use the toggle switch inside the RV as you would if using gas.
I think you'll find that it's not an 'either / or' thing. You can heat with LP, 120 v electric, or both. Turning on the electric doesn't turn off the gas. Usually you'll find two switches inside the RV, one that turns on the LP gas, another that turns on the electric. You can use both for faster heating, the electric element is not as fast as the LP. If you use the hot water, the tank will take a much longer recovery time on electric only.
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:35 AM   #20
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No hot water by pass question

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The caption in white , is not correct. The by-pass valve, as shown , is closed.
The hot and cold valves are open. Normal operating position.
For winterizing, the hot and cold need to be closed and the by-pass opened, & the drain plug removed from the outside of the tank. Then you can run RV anti freeze through the hot & cold line with out any entering the H/W tank; by disconnecting the 12v pump inlet tube and installing an adaptor to draw the anti freeze out of a jug.
My old travel trailer had access to the water heater from under in seat in the kitchen. There were 3 valves as shown in this picture. I had no problem with operating that. My new 2014 Winnebago One 30RE does not have access to the water tank but there is access to the water pump which has a bypass valve setup that I am not familiar with. There are two valves. One (on the left in picture)is connected to a small hose that I know is used for winterizing. It is closed right now. The second valve is located ON THE SAME line and the pump is in between them. This line is a cold water line. In this setup I have water coming into the trailer but no hot water. Do I not have the valve's set right?
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:38 AM   #21
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Wish I could figure how to add pic
For instructions on adding a picture to your posts, go to the " FAQ " drop box , in the blue bar below your welcome message.
Remember that photos need to be re-sized for posting, max 640 x 640.
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:54 AM   #22
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Little eddie; Welcome to iRV2.

The valves in the photo , leading to the pump , are correct, for regular use.
To pick up RV anti-freeze from a container , you would close the valve on the right to stop water from your fresh tank getting to the pump, and open the left to draw the A/F into the system.
There will be another set of valves near the hot water tank for by-pass.
Could be a panel that has to be removed in the area of the hot water tank for access.
Didn't the dealer set the RV up for use and test the hot water ?
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:24 AM   #23
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Since he had hot water on gas and not electric, it might be that the electric heating element is smoked. If the switches and breaker were on it is time to check the element.
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:15 PM   #24
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OK, now I feel stupid. I had the by pass valve set up correctly and yes there was another panel under the refrigerator that gave me access to the hot water tank which had the 3 valve system which I know how to use. I just forgot the panel was there, we purchased this last November and had our walk thru but this is or first use 9 months later and the old brain just isn't working like it use to.
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:10 PM   #25
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the old brain just isn't working like it use to.
That's why were here , to help one and other , of a similar age , through our senior moments.
Just remember, it's not bad if you can't find your car keys, it is bad if you have the keys and don't know what they're for.
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