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Old 05-30-2015, 09:26 AM   #1
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Water Pump Issue

We are dry camping for the first time in our 2011 Flagstaff Classic and have had some water pump issues. There seems to be air in the lines. I've tried running the water to bleed the air and that works for a bit. The pump will kick on and prime and shut off. After a while it will kick in with a very low hum and run constantly. It's barely audible enough to hear unless you walk over to it. When I turn the water on when it's doing the low hum, I get air in the line and eventually the pump will get louder and prime again. Any thoughts on this? I checked all connections and even bypassed the filtration system. Just thought I'd see if anyone else had this issue before replacing the pump. Thanks!
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:20 AM   #2
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Was the RV dewinterized?

I wonder if you have some valves in the wrong position?
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:21 AM   #3
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Yup. I am beginning to think the check valve on the pump head is allowing air to enter and lose a minor amount of pressure. I will hook up to the city water at home tomorrow to see if I am still getting air in the lines.
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:34 AM   #4
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Agree...one of the many winterizing valves are in the Wong position...either open when should be closed or visa Vera. This happened to me as the water pump would come on w/o using the facet. Turned out the shutoff vavles were not set correctly.
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:42 AM   #5
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We've used it with city water and zero issues. Had full pressure in all lines without any trouble. If I had a valve in the wrong position wouldn't I have trouble even on city water?
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:39 PM   #6
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No...the city water is routed differently. This is exactly what happened to me. 1st trip out was to a full hook-up site. The 1st trip where I needed to use the fresh water tank is when I had the issue.

Now...it took me two tries to get vavles set correctly.

I am 90% sure this is your issue and easy to fix.

Good luck
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:39 PM   #7
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looking at the pipes which should be red and blue usually, red is of course hot and you want to make sure your not in bypass as well as any extra hose connected to the pump to pull antifreeze when winterizing

I spent about an hour before I got it right myself...
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Old 06-10-2015, 02:57 PM   #8
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You should have two valves at the pump
One to open/close the feed to the pump from the fresh water tank
One to open/close the feed from a siphon hose to use the pump to pull RV antifreeze from a jug into the downstream plumbing
That last one may be your culprit
For pulling from the fresh tank it should be completely closed
For winterizing it should be open and the one to the Freshwater tank should be closed

The other valves for winterizing are for bypassing the hot water tank so you don't fill it full of RV antifreeze. You drain the hot water tank so it does not need RV antifreeze
There would be 3 valves on it
One on the inlet
One on the outlet
One between the inlet and outlet
Normal operation should be inlet open outlet open the inbetween is closed
For winterizing inlet closed Outlet closed and the inbetween is open to bypass the hot water tank.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:34 AM   #9
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*UPDATE* I ended up taking the camper to the dealer since we have the extended warranty. It was a faulty bypass valve on the back of the water heater. They replaced it and all worked well when I tested it!
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