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Old 06-17-2013, 06:46 AM   #29
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If bearings are packed right, the system shouldn't be full at all. Only the bearings should be full, not the entire hub.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:31 AM   #30
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As far as I know the specs on any good synthetic wheel bearing lube is going to exceed any standard bearing lube. I've got a new tube of Amzoil Series 2000 100% synthetic wheel bearing lube in front of me right now. It list these specs: 2 & 2EP Consistency Grade
GC - Wheel Bearing Performance
LB - Chassis Lubricant Performance


The exact specifications would be available from the internet. This bearing lube is about $11 a tube. I bought a case of 6 tubes. It is the best wheel and chassis lube that they make. It's probably 10-times better than any standard bearing lube. I don't think that's a lot of $$$$ to get the best lube you can buy. As far as the grease gun method. I stay away from it because of the chance of blowing the rear seals. If done correctly (raising the wheel and spinning) you would probably be OK. However as mentioned expecting grease to come out and it does not may mean that the hub is not full or it's going out the back. I do not like filling the hub with grease as the grease acts as an insulator so the bearing heat can't escape as easily. If you use the gun method you have to fill the hub. It's OK to do the bearing annually but using a good bearing and good grease they should last at least 30,000 miles before they need re-packed. If you want to do the inspection every year and inspect that's fine. I can do my bearings and I know for certain that they will go back together correctly. Here's the problem. If you have a good shop that can do the work and do it correctly that's good. Remember every time you perform any service procedure you have to remove, adjust and replace things, (Cotter pins, caps, axle nuts, bearing adjustments etc.) That's 4-6 items that can be performed incorrectly as well. Doing service procedures more than absolutely opens you up to making mistakes. I probably won't make them but somebody that i hire may. When I have a shop R&R my tires I always re-torque the wheels when I get home because I want to know that it's all done correctly. One over or under torqued wheel lug will warp a disc brake rotor. Get it hot on the drive home and when it cools you have a warped rotor.
As far as getting bearings simply remove a set of the bearings including the races and take the numbers to either NAPA or a local bearing supply store. Ask for TOYO or if they can find Timkin made in the USA they will be better quality. The china bearing may be OK with good grease but I know the TOYO's stand a better chance of being a better quality than the CHINA ones.
JM2@W

TeJay
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:12 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
If bearings are packed right, the system shouldn't be full at all. Only the bearings should be full, not the entire hub.
That is true for conventional wheel bearings, but we're talking about the EZ Lube with the zerk fitting that fills the cavity to cycle the grease through the bearings on the way back out.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:33 AM   #32
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TeJay, I kind of agree with you about the heat generated, and it was more of an issue years ago with primitive lubes and massive castings that were heat sinks themselves. But the volume of grease is minimized in the EZ Lubes, so it's less of an issue.
Then, if you use Amsoil Lube (I do) then the temp generated by the bearings will be nil.
I think it's a non-issue.
I definitely agree about the many points of failure at most shops. A call from the girl friend when the mechanic is assembling and who knows if he remembered to check the wheel nut torque before inserting the pin and buttoning up.
As far as blowing out the back seal, I trust my seals more than you do, and I can tell if I am getting an equal amount returned for each pump. If I am not, then I need to investigate, which involves the extra work that you already do, that I feel comfortable avoiding, if I pay attention to the exuding grease.
I also agree that excessive opening of the hub/bearing assembly may be harmful, primarily because of the opportunity to introduce grit into the bearings.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:40 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Apprentice View Post
That is true for conventional wheel bearings, but we're talking about the EZ Lube with the zerk fitting that fills the cavity to cycle the grease through the bearings on the way back out.
That's assuming you never ever perform correct maintenance on them. If they are repacked like every other bearing, which they are if done right, they will not be packed full. Only after they've been lazy serviced.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:27 AM   #34
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Even if we don't all agree on all of these points the discussions are good. As stated, if the bearing gun lube is done correctly and carefully it's OK.
It can also be bad if not performed correctly.

I think many of us get involved in these discussion so that others might learn and therefore perhaps save some $$$ and also travel with less problems. Nobody wants to get stranded on a camping trip. We offer our knowledge, and I'm still learning, to those that may not have had the opportunity in their careers to learn in the hopes that others will benefit.

After 35 years in the classroom and retired 7 years barely will a month go by without talking to or hearing about a student that benefited from his/her experience in my classroom. Don't get me wrong. I never did what I did to get pats on the back, but it's nice when it happens.

Keep these open discussions going so that others may learn.

TeJay
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:19 AM   #35
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So it looks like this would be the stuff. All you need to do is ask or look for "Amsoil 2000" grease? AMSOIL DOMINATOR Synthetic Racing Grease

If I understand correctly, you can also use this for anything else under the trailer that has a grease zerk fitting? Then you only need to have one type on hand. There's grease zerks on wet bolts, but not sure where else they might be tho.

As far as quality goes, can the seals be of low quality too? If so, suggestions for replacement?

If you go to a synthetic grease for the bearings, does that mean you'd have to take the bearings out and clean the old stuff out?

We have a 2 year warranty on our trailer. If we happen to have a bearing failure, can the dealer try and say we didn't pump grease in often enough? How would they know how often we did anyway?

If I understand from those in the know, you don't have to pump new grease in regularly?. For those who don't put much mileage on in a year, you can just grease and inspect annually. But for those doing long trips and accumulating a lot of miles, pumping in grease a couple of times would be good practice?? While we do have grease-able Ultrulube axles, the manual is silent on how often to pump new grease in or how many pumps.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:20 PM   #36
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It would be my educated guess that mixing grease would not adversely affect the other grease, but I could be wrong. I, on the other hand would want all new grease of the best quality so I would start fresh. I am still at a loss why, why, why some feel it necessary to inspect those bearings annually. When we had re-packable front bearings that was not an annual maintenance item. It was usually done when the brakes were replaced. If you use good grease, and adjust the bearings correctly with a .001-.003 thousands clearance they are good for 30-40-K miles just as they were on front wheels before. Putting bearings under a TT does not change the conditions under which they operate. They still have side pressures and spinning issues. The weight isn't more and if it is then those bearings should be large enough to handle the weight. I realize that some want to inspect those bearings and shoes and I guess that's fine. Again, anytime you perform maintenance you open yourself up to doing something wrong.
Ir is always suggested that when bearings are removed that the seals be replaced. I would use NAPA as my source. they try to deal in good quality stuff. They always have in the past. They do have a National reputation to uphold so I trust that they supply decent quality stuff. Some of the others I don't trust. Many are always working on the cheap and that's not always good.
As far as pumping new grease in I again don't accept that. If it was necessary then why did we go for 30-40-K miles before we packed bearings?? When bearings are hand-packed that lube does not move around. When you pack those tapered roller bearings that grease stays right there for 40-K miles and is never changed. Fill the hub with grease and it never touches a roller bearing. Why do FWD vehicles with front and rear sealed wheel bearing hubs last for 70-K plus miles?? They are sealed with no way to add any lube and my guess is that the lube is synthetic.

TeJay
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:59 PM   #37
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Grease compatibility chart:

http://www.mobilindustrial.com/IND/E...patibility.pdf

It would be best to clean the bearings and use just one type of grease, then never let anyone mix it up later. The chart above may not have the type you are using.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:44 AM   #38
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I love learning new things but lately I've had to learn a lot about frames, suspension and things related to a trailer frame that I thought I'd never have to, due to some serious frame issues on our brand new trailer. A story for another day...

I have been suspicious as of late about anything related to our frame like the bearings in the wheels. We were supposed to get Alko self-adjusting brakes but instead got some made in Ch*na ones called Axletek. Have not been able to find out much about them so far except a local frame shop told me that they are junk. We were also supposed to get Ultrulube grease-able bearings.

The Alko manual supplied to us makes reference to Perma-Lube "maintenance-free cartridge bearings". Do we have a generic manual or is this what we are supposed to have? I've not heard of these before. They sound nice. Even if we don't have them, can they replace the standard bearings that are used?

Then I just got to thinking, do the spindles, bearings, brakes, backing plate, drums, and anything else specific to this assembly come as a complete package that gets bolted onto the axles? Or are the Ultrulube greasable bearings/axle assembly part of the supplied axles? Did we really get Ultrulube axles or a knock-off substitute? How could I tell? (Begs the question - how often are owners out there not getting the brakes or greasable bearings they were supposed to?)

My apologies if the original post has gotten a little off track, but this thread has a lot of good info.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:58 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by lynnmor View Post
Grease compatibility chart:

http://www.mobilindustrial.com/IND/E...patibility.pdf

It would be best to clean the bearings and use just one type of grease, then never let anyone mix it up later. The chart above may not have the type you are using.
Yeah, I agree. PITA, but anytime I lube a bearing for the first time (even new trailers, if I can't get credible info from the manufacturer, I solvent out the old grease and start fresh with my preferred lube. Then I stick to it. I would hand a shop my lube if I had them do the job for me.
Odds are pretty good that this is being overly protective, but it makes me happy!
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:03 AM   #40
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Apprentice,
Knowing that it is done correctly and to your specification and standards is always piece of mind and that's worth a bunch. Many of these simple jobs can be screwed up because there are many ways for a person to cut corners and that is not good.

I always taught my student that if bearing races were removed and replaced when the axle nut it put on to tighten with a ratchet until it stops then try to tighten the ratchet another 1/8th to a 1/4 of a turn. If the races were not seated correctly that extra turn did the job. If the ratchet won't turn that extra bit then you seated them correctly. After that extra turn back the ratchet off and tighten until the side movement just goes away. You are striving for .001-.003 movement of the wheel which will give you the optimum bearing clearance.

During a job anybody can get distracted. It might be a pee call, phone call, butt break, a question from another tech, or lunch.

TeJay
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