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Old 09-12-2005, 07:43 AM   #1
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Winterized before going FT, then avoided extreme weather after going FT. Might need to spend this winter in Mo., trying to plan ahead.
Will have 50 amp. to FW plus extra 20 amp plug on post. Have two Mr. Heater propane heaters for backup if storm knocks out power. Plan is to enclose most of space under FW and use space heater to warm air when needed, off the extra plug. Only run furnace if heat is required in basement (have remote sensor to watch temp. in basement)and use propane heater in FW as needed. Will fill fresh water and dump tanks only when temp. gets above 30. Thinking heat tape will not be needed but could add without to much trouble. Has anyone used a heat pad that was made to go under a waterbed as a heat source on tanks of a FW? Did search on winterizing, read 10 pages and gave up.
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Old 09-12-2005, 07:43 AM   #2
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Winterized before going FT, then avoided extreme weather after going FT. Might need to spend this winter in Mo., trying to plan ahead.
Will have 50 amp. to FW plus extra 20 amp plug on post. Have two Mr. Heater propane heaters for backup if storm knocks out power. Plan is to enclose most of space under FW and use space heater to warm air when needed, off the extra plug. Only run furnace if heat is required in basement (have remote sensor to watch temp. in basement)and use propane heater in FW as needed. Will fill fresh water and dump tanks only when temp. gets above 30. Thinking heat tape will not be needed but could add without to much trouble. Has anyone used a heat pad that was made to go under a waterbed as a heat source on tanks of a FW? Did search on winterizing, read 10 pages and gave up.
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Old 09-13-2005, 03:07 AM   #3
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They make heat pads that permenately attach to the black & grey tanks that run off 12vdc.
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:28 AM   #4
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Those 12V heating pads will drain your batteries in no time. If you're hooked up to shore power (that doesn't go out), you should be fine. Easier to install than the AC ones, but they don't get quite as warm.
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Old 09-13-2005, 04:25 PM   #5
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If you have an air tank and and an adapter, you could blow your lines as a last ditch effort if you lose power. I blow my lines after every trip in the winter, I frequently winter camp. I don't even think about the pink stuff until below 10, which ain't often here. In the advent of a loss of power, itis more important to prevent damage vs convience. This just gives you another option. Everything else sounds good, surprised a New Horizon doesn't have tank heaters though.
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Old 09-14-2005, 10:13 AM   #6
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Thanks for feedback, was given a waterbed heater is why I asked. Tanks insulated but I try not to use furance, feel it is such waste of propane. Above avg. chance power will go off during a storm. Have Prosine inverter and Honda e2000 and hope power would be restored soon. Was just thinking that since I had an extra plug, some heat under FW would be a plus. Just have not spent winter in such a cold area, and was trying to pick brains of others ahead of time. I do have the adapter to blow the lines, still unused. How much air pressure is safe before chance of damage? I can set the max. pressure just don't know what it should be set for.
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Old 09-14-2005, 11:24 AM   #7
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Yes, you can use a waterbed heater to keep your tanks warm (just set the thermostate at about 35 or so...they don't have the most acurate temp guage). You would probably be better off running your genny during a power outage rather than using battery backup (cold sucks the life out of a battery). Make sure your heater pad is touching the tank and does not have insulation between tank & pad (obvious but I have seen some...). We plan on doing the same so when we knocked down our waterbed and dumped the mattress (replacing with air), I packed up the heater pad. Many bus converters use the cheaper waterbed heaters rather than spend the extra $$ for the fancy dual or 12vdc units. Also easy to replace at the big stores like Wal-Mart & K-Mart as opposed to ordering one and waiting to have it shipped to you. Get a remote thermostate to keep an eye on your water temps in case your heater pad burns out.
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Old 10-15-2005, 02:17 PM   #8
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You spoke of sealing off around the bottom of the RV and also having shore power. If you are talking about a skirt like situation why not hang some 100w 120v light bulbs. You just need to keep it above freezing. I may be off base but just a thought.

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Old 10-17-2005, 10:17 AM   #9
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We needed to live in our 26 ft Citation TT in 2002 while building a new house...some temps near 0 F and several snowfalls (on lake Huron) . Heated with an oil filled electric on a single pole thermostat and occasional backup by the propane furnace when the wind got up over 25 mph... I made up sides with 1 1/2 Styrofoam sealed with tape. Rewired a 500 watt/220v baseboard to work on 110V (output only 250 watts) and put it under the TT with a single pole wall thermostat set at about 45 degrees. Still needed a heat tape on the water hose tho and I insulated the sewer drain hose with fibreglas batts wrapped in 6 mil poly. No problems except for excess humidity inside. Caused mold we found when opening up in May after closing in early january. Traded it! It was not meant to be a winter abode!!!
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