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12-08-2016, 02:55 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Wilsonville, Al.
Posts: 8
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Winterizing
This is my first time to winterize a camper and I have a question. When you winterize do you blow air through the water lines and if so how much water would typically come out. I have drained my fresh tank and water heater and then put about 40 psi through the water lines with all the taps open and didn't really get any water at all. I have also put antifreeze in all the pee traps and commode. Is there anything else I should do? Thanks for your help.
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12-08-2016, 03:38 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,846
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If you opened all the taps at once that will cut down on pressure. Normally you open one side of the valve at a time. Cold first, close then open hot. If you have an outside shower do that also.
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12-08-2016, 04:00 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Mountainburg, AR
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09 harley
If you opened all the taps at once that will cut down on pressure. Normally you open one side of the valve at a time. Cold first, close then open hot. If you have an outside shower do that also.
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Hmmm, I am also very new to owning an RV, winterizing for the first time, and I had the same experience. I followed the manual and it said to have everything open before turning on the air then let it run for 5 minutes. I did that and only a little water was pushed through, however I could feel and hear air coming our of each faucet, so I figured it was clear.
My thinking was that there needed to be at least one faucet open at all times to prevent excessive air pressure from building up in the water line.
I did not add the AF to the p-traps. The manual said it was to prevent sewer fumes and odor from entering the coach. This made sense to me since the drain pipes are not under pressure and there is plenty of room for the ice to expand in there. We are planning a trip at Christmas and I didn't see the sense in adding the AF for 2 weeks.
Am I screwed? It got down to 20* last night and it will be 15* tonight.
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2018 Tiffin Phaeton 40AH/2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport Toad
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12-08-2016, 04:16 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryJB
Hmmm, I am also very new to owning an RV, winterizing for the first time, and I had the same experience. I followed the manual and it said to have everything open before turning on the air then let it run for 5 minutes. I did that and only a little water was pushed through, however I could feel and hear air coming our of each faucet, so I figured it was clear.
My thinking was that there needed to be at least one faucet open at all times to prevent excessive air pressure from building up in the water line.
I did not add the AF to the p-traps. The manual said it was to prevent sewer fumes and odor from entering the coach. This made sense to me since the drain pipes are not under pressure and there is plenty of room for the ice to expand in there. We are planning a trip at Christmas and I didn't see the sense in adding the AF for 2 weeks.
Am I screwed? It got down to 20* last night and it will be 15* tonight.
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I would pour a little anti freeze in all the traps unless u drained the water from them, that's what keeps odors from coming back thru your drain lines, just like in ur house. I also pour a little in toilet to cover flapper to help the rubber from drying out
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12-08-2016, 04:44 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,194
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You want to ensure the regulator is set to a pressure below the max specified in your manual.
Close all faucets and low point drains and let the system pressurize.
Then starting With the low point drains, open each, one by one, then move to the faucets, including the toilet flusher, out door shower, kitchen sink, etc.
Finally run the water pump until you hear it clear of water.
__________________
Brian
2016 RAM 3500 6.7L DRW
2018 Chaparral 360IBL, Andersen Ultimate II hitch
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12-08-2016, 04:45 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Braselton, Georgia
Posts: 1,287
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I also hook up the air pressure to the black tank flush. Blow air thru the black tank flush line to make sure it's clear. Don't forget to blow out the outdoor shower hookup and flush the toilet until only air comes out. Those are the ones I tend to forget.
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2016 Winnebago 2201DS Champagne
2015 Ford F-150 XLT FX4 5.0
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12-08-2016, 04:47 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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Something in the traps keeps the fumes blocked. Water in the traps can freeze and crack the traps. Can not will. Put some antifreeze in there ASAP. Does not matter what kind for traps but Pink is better.
Did not see that you drained the hot water heater. Pull the plug or anode rod and drain it or it will crack.
If you are not putting air through the pump it will be full and liable to freeze and crack.
I open the valves before I hit it with air. Have done it the other way. Either way it's not a huge amount of water as the tubing runs tend to be short and relatively small.
If you are heading out in 2 weeks it might have been easier to just keep the heat on.
;-)
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12-08-2016, 06:21 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: St. Charles MO
Posts: 4,920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badlands Bob
I also hook up the air pressure to the black tank flush. Blow air thru the black tank flush line to make sure it's clear. Don't forget to blow out the outdoor shower hookup and flush the toilet until only air comes out. Those are the ones I tend to forget.
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Ooh the black tank flush, now that is the one I didn't think about purging, being its the first year doing it. I would think that it probably doesn't retain any water being there is no valve to contain it?
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2002 Monaco Windsor 40PST 2019 Equinox 1.5L, Blue OX Aventa LX tow bar, Roadmaster EZ5 baseplate, SMI Stay-In-Play Duo, TireSafeGuard TPMS
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12-08-2016, 08:01 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmw188
Ooh the black tank flush, now that is the one I didn't think about purging, being its the first year doing it. I would think that it probably doesn't retain any water being there is no valve to contain it?
iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum
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Water can collect just inside the hose connection on your black tank flush and crack if the water freezes. A hand pump to push any water out of the flush connection (a few ounces is all you need). The black tank flush immediate turns down and runs into the black tank so you really don't have to worry about the entire line as gravity takes over and removes water once you are passed the neck.
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12-09-2016, 04:10 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: St. Charles MO
Posts: 4,920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigattime
Water can collect just inside the hose connection on your black tank flush and crack if the water freezes. A hand pump to push any water out of the flush connection (a few ounces is all you need). The black tank flush immediate turns down and runs into the black tank so you really don't have to worry about the entire line as gravity takes over and removes water once you are passed the neck.
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That's sort of my point about spray nozzle probably just drains down. Now the hose connection too I hope should be fine being it is open and shouldn't have any type of natural trap. I have always used air on my boats and this MH too but didn't think about that nozzle connection.
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2002 Monaco Windsor 40PST 2019 Equinox 1.5L, Blue OX Aventa LX tow bar, Roadmaster EZ5 baseplate, SMI Stay-In-Play Duo, TireSafeGuard TPMS
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12-09-2016, 08:49 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: 4 Corners
Posts: 70
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I have been doing both for years now. Usually blow the lines with air after our last trip in late September, then later on the last part of October or just before the first freeze, add the antifreeze. There is always water forced out when the antifreeze is circulated thru the lines. Always have water come out all the faucets and low point drains even after blowing the lines. Don't completely trust just blowing air thru the system.
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'13 F-150, XLT, HD, Screw, Eco
'14 26 sab Cougar 5er
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12-09-2016, 09:11 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: St. Charles MO
Posts: 4,920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campnfool
I have been doing both for years now. Usually blow the lines with air after our last trip in late September, then later on the last part of October or just before the first freeze, add the antifreeze. There is always water forced out when the antifreeze is circulated thru the lines. Always have water come out all the faucets and low point drains even after blowing the lines. Don't completely trust just blowing air thru the system.
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X2 yes air for me is just the start antifreeze next brought in by the pump.
__________________
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PST 2019 Equinox 1.5L, Blue OX Aventa LX tow bar, Roadmaster EZ5 baseplate, SMI Stay-In-Play Duo, TireSafeGuard TPMS
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12-10-2016, 06:10 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Mountainburg, AR
Posts: 1,647
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why would you blow out the lines if you are going just fill them back up with AF? That doesn't make any sense to me.
__________________
There are 10 types of people... Those that understand binary and those that don't.
_________________________
2018 Tiffin Phaeton 40AH/2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport Toad
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12-10-2016, 06:25 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: St. Charles MO
Posts: 4,920
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Winterizing
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryJB
why would you blow out the lines if you are going just fill them back up with AF? That doesn't make any sense to me.
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You start with mostly cleared lines and decrease the chances of diluted antifreeze. The pink antifreeze looks diluted enough as it is coming out of the fixtures without thinking there might be water in it too. Helps keep rubber washers and seals from drying out.
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__________________
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PST 2019 Equinox 1.5L, Blue OX Aventa LX tow bar, Roadmaster EZ5 baseplate, SMI Stay-In-Play Duo, TireSafeGuard TPMS
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