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Old 11-22-2014, 12:36 AM   #15
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+1 on the 20 minutes
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:14 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by TDI-Minnie View Post
3 hours??
What are you doing to that thing?
Takes me maybe 20 minutes.
It takes me over 20 minutes just to drain my fresh water tank if it happens to be full.
I have to remove the drawers in the kitchen cabinet to access the shut off and by-pass valves to the hot water tank. If the drawers were empty, it wouldn't take too long, but as luck would have it, the kitchen drawers are full of kitchen stuff.
The city water connection is a PITA to back flush with RV anti-freeze. That can take 15 minutes. If I had an injector pump, I could pump the RV anti-freeze direct into the city water connection. That might save some time, but then you have to set up the injector pump. That could take 15 minutes.

I guess I'm just slow. I don't consider winterizing my travel trailer an Olympic event. I pace myself now that I'm retired.
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Old 11-22-2014, 12:43 PM   #17
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This YouTube hits all the high points of winterizing from my experience...and they are prepping a Class B.
It's not a quick process - for sure.

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Old 11-23-2014, 06:35 AM   #18
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That was an excellent video. The real test is springtime when we connect city water and dewinterize. ...if the trailer looks like the fountains in front of the Bellagio casino in vegas...then I'll know I messed up. I'm hopeful based on this video vs how I winterized. I didn't use air pressure but pink was running out everywhere. Now now I want to go camping.
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:21 AM   #19
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This YouTube hits all the high points of winterizing
That is a good RV winterizing video. Thanks for posting.
This method relies on being able to use compressed air to blow out all the water in the RV plumbing by attaching a regulated compressed air fitting to the city water connection.
This requires:
1. Air compressor.
2. Adapter fitting from compressed air to city water hose connection.
3. Pressure regulator to prevent exceeding max. plumbing system pressure.
After draining the fresh water tank and "isolating" and draining the hot water heater, I use the electric water pump to suck air from the empty fresh water tank and "blow" the water out of the plumbing lines. I open the cold and hot water taps one at a time. I turn on the water pump for 2 or 3 seconds (just enough time for air to blow out) for each tap (plus the foot flush toilet).
Except for the city water connect, all the plumbing lines are then mostly free of water. I pour 2 gallons of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank. That is enough to prime the electric pump and blow a little bit of pink anti-freeze out of each the plumbing fittings, one at a time.
The messy part is back flushing the city water supply with RV anti-freeze. With all faucets closed, I run the electric water pump just enough to build up some pressure. Then I go out to the city water connect and after removing the strainer, I push the check valve pin and a slug of water comes spraying out of the connection until the residual pressure in the line goes to zero. The internal spring resets the check valve and I do another partial pressure of the system using the electric water pump. Then go to the city water connect and push the pin again. Do that enough times until the pink RV anti-freeze sprays out of the city water supply connection. It can get real messy if you use full water pump pressure when you push the check valve.

I didn't mention the holding tanks or "P" traps since that is identical to the video.

I'm sure the 20 minute "Jiffy-Lube" or "Jiffy-Winterize" guys have their winterizing procedure. IMHO 20 minutes would be the fastest winterizing procedure I ever saw. Sort of like a NASCAR pit crew doing a 4 tire change.
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:36 AM   #20
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I'll double check my winterizing by doing the city water pin pushbutton you mentioned. Then hopefully I can rest easy for thebwonter...just going to check in on the tt over the winter. Thanks again all for the advice. Forums like this a great to share experiences.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:35 AM   #21
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Here are some photos of the steps for winterizing the City Water Connection using RV Anti-freeze to back-flush.

This should be the last procedure in winterizing the fresh water plumbing system. In the video referenced in the reply above, the compressed air displaced the water in the City Water Connection. The RV anti-freeze back-flush below assumes you aren't using the compressed air method.

When you open the cap on the City Water Connection, you will probably see a garden hose type of strainer like in the next two photos.



Use your fingers to remove the washer/strainer from the connector.



Now you should be able to see a pin that opens the check valve. If you have full pressure in your fresh water plumbing system from your electric water pump, it may be difficult to open this check valve. I recommend bleeding off at least 1/2 of the water pump pressure before attempting to open the check valve.



Press the check valve pin and when pink RV anit-freeze sprays out (as in the photo below), your City Water Connection is winterized.



Insert hose washer/strainer and close the cap.



Use any faucet in the fresh water plumbing system to bleed off any residual pressure left in the fresh water plumbing system.
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Old 11-27-2014, 06:48 PM   #22
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I plan on trying this tomorrow just to make sure the line is filled with pink stuff. Excellent pics for reference. Thank you.
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:42 PM   #23
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In the video, did they say anything about the low point drains? I though I either missed it, or the Roadtrek's don't have any.
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Old 11-28-2014, 10:24 AM   #24
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In the video, did they say anything about the low point drains?
That is a good question. I think the answer is "No."
I don't recall the video mentioning Low Point Drains.
It is separate from the City Water Connection and should be drained at the same time the fresh water tank and fresh water plumbing system are drained (or blown out with compressed air).

On my 2014 Heartland Wilderness 2175RB, there are two separate Low Point Drains. One for cold water system and one for hot water system.

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Old 11-28-2014, 02:13 PM   #25
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I just went to double check the back flush method sailor Don described and I'm glad I did...clear water rushed out for for a number of seconds before pure pink. It's going down to 18 degrees F tonight. Now I can rest easy...that could have been an expensive ooops. I wish the Jayco manual explained winterizing as well as the advice on this forum. I did all 4 low point drains last time and left them open along with all the other faucets. Thank you all!
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Old 11-29-2014, 07:53 AM   #26
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It's going down to 18 degrees F tonight. Now I can rest easy...that could have been an expensive ooops.
That is good news that you got the fresh water out and the RV Anti-freeze in before the 18 deg. F.
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Old 11-29-2014, 08:17 AM   #27
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I was surprised the Jayco manual only showed the air compressor method of winterizing. I would think that majority of owners that self winterize just purge using the on board pump, low points and use the pink stuff. I have been thinking of getting a compressor but primarily for other reasons. I was under the impression the low point closest to the city water would drain the section of pipe....it appears my assessment was wrong. I'm still mixed on covering the roof..a bunch of the RVs where we store for the winter have full covers. Most have wheel covers. Being a boat owner I can see RV covers holding in moisture and creating the perfect conditions for mold.
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