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Old 09-07-2016, 10:57 AM   #15
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30 lbs of air pressure will not cause a leak in your system. This pressure is well below the normal water pressure. The problem is the cheap round clips that the manufacturers use to secure the pipes to the fittings. The only reason these are used is because they are cheap and quick to use. Cheap and quick to use not the same as well engineered and reliable. My brothers high end Forest River 5th wheel uses these cheap fittings also and we're up to three replaced so far. They are also a pain to replace. My daughters KZ trailer uses these and I've replaced several already. You can do it quicker with air and much easier to get ready in the Spring.
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:37 PM   #16
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We live in the South and use the camper during the Winter if we get a nice stretch of days. Using 2 gallons of antifreeze every time I winterize gets to be expensive if I have to do it 6-8 times a winter. I use the compressed air at 40 psi. I use 1/2 gallon for the traps. Takes me about 15 minutes.

If I lived up North and the camper was going to sit for 5 months, I'd put antifreeze in all the lines.
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Old 09-08-2016, 06:54 AM   #17
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It took me a few times to get it right. I do the following and it only takes about 30 minutes

Drain fresh tank leave plug off
Remove anode and drain water heater
Blow out fresh tank lines
Bypass water heater
Pull antifreeze thru water pump until pink comes out all faucets
Flush toilet and leave filled with some pink water

I also keep damp rid in the kitchen and bathroom and I check it every month or so to make sure the toilet still has pink water in it and fill if needed and change out damp rid if needed.

I also keep the battery on trickle while disconnected

I will miss the darn thing until next spring.

One last trip in October for fright fest.....
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Old 09-08-2016, 09:04 AM   #18
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About the only thing I could add to that if I do leave the lid up on the throne. To prevent mold. Also I leave the two refrigerator doors locked open for the same reason I hate to scrub mold.... Dusty
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Old 09-08-2016, 09:26 AM   #19
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Regarding the 12v water pump, wouldn't opening the drain points empty the pump lines as well?
Appreciate the replies so far!
Bob55
Opening the drain points will "empty the waterlines" but it will not "empty the water out of the water pump itself".
To insure that my water pump will not freeze I remove both the in and out lines from the pump and run the pump dry.
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:51 PM   #20
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Agree bring pump in for winter - takes 5 minutes!
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:04 PM   #21
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I pump antifreeze thru my lines. Do it myself, you can get antifreeze at Wal-Mart for less than $3:00 a gallon. Took 4 gallon. Don't have to worry about the pump as it pumps antifreeze into lines. Stick the little line into jug turn valve run thru. ...Dusty
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Old 09-12-2016, 05:47 PM   #22
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One trick I have found to help drain the system. After we have disconnected at our campsite (when I know we're going to winterize) I will open all the faucets and fixtures including the low point drains.

We then drive home. I close all the faucets and valves and proceed to winterize with air as noted above.

I have found that the drive with all the fixtures and valves open tends to break the vacuum in the pipes so it can drain naturally. By the time I Get to it with air there is hardly any water in the pipes remaining. Even the water heater has drained. This saves a ton of time.
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Old 09-14-2016, 07:14 AM   #23
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Here in the DFW area , we camp yr round. Our friends has a huge 5th wheel , he sets his heater to 40 degrees . After draining all the lines .
Never a problem. Heater comes on if we get some cold weather
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:32 AM   #24
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Here in the DFW area , we camp yr round. Our friends has a huge 5th wheel , he sets his heater to 40 degrees . After draining all the lines .
Never a problem. Heater comes on if we get some cold weather
I also plan on camping year round from Arkansas. My Bullet has the thermal package so what is the opinion on this working? I could also drain the lines after each use.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:47 AM   #25
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Here in the DFW area , we camp yr round. Our friends has a huge 5th wheel , he sets his heater to 40 degrees . After draining all the lines .
Never a problem. Heater comes on if we get some cold weather
capsfloyd
I store my coach where it sometimes sees temps as low a 20 degrees below zero F.
I simply gravity drain everything in my fresh water system, (using NO compressed air and NO RV antifreeze.... (except in the 3 P-traps and in the Splendide washer drain pump).

However that is not my recommendation....just how I winterize.

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Old 09-17-2016, 08:42 PM   #26
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For everyone that says just add some antifreeze and pump it through, how exactly is that done? Are you dumping it in the fresh water tank and pumping through? If not, what is being hooked up to what then?

I used compressed air last winter but I'm open to something different.
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Old 09-18-2016, 04:51 AM   #27
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All I can say is I make a lot of money on people that say. " I blew the lines out good" .
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:29 AM   #28
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For everyone that says just add some antifreeze and pump it through, how exactly is that done? Are you dumping it in the fresh water tank and pumping through? If not, what is being hooked up to what then?
I used compressed air last winter but I'm open to something different.
SouthpawHD
Many RVs have a winterization kit installed which allows you to draw RV antifreeze from the bottle and pump it into and thorough the fresh water system lines using the 12V water pump:


If your RV doesn't have one you can add one:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-P.../dp/B0006JJ588

Mel
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