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Old 09-02-2016, 07:47 PM   #1
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Winterizing with air compressor

Have been winterizing by filling system with anti-freeze and would like to try blowing the water out this year and just using anti-freeze in the traps. Any suggestions on how big a compressor I should get to do this? Trailer is 28 feet Spree Connect. I know it must be oil free,but wondering if a one gallon pancake compressor is big enough.
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Old 09-02-2016, 07:56 PM   #2
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Good question, I'm wondering the same....
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:54 PM   #3
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I use an oil-less "pancake" compressor. Porter Cable, that came with a nice accessory pack. Got it on Amazon for about $130.00. I use it for several things around the home as well. They are also available at Lowe's, Home Depot.
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:59 PM   #4
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You'd be using very low pressure, so a small compressor would be fine.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:23 PM   #5
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It's not the size it's the pressure
30 lbs is plenty. Put air in the water system, then go open each faucet. Water will spit out .
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:31 PM   #6
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Make note that blowing the lines , will NOT , clear the water out of the systems 12 volt pump, if you're putting the air in through the systems city water hook up.
After blowing the lines , remove both in and out lines from the pump and run it dry , or remove it and store in a warm place for the winter, particularly if it has an inlet screen chamber, even 1/2 full of water they will crack.

Don't ask.
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Old 09-03-2016, 05:55 AM   #7
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I've been doing this for 10 years on my trailer with no issues:

1.Make sure the water heater is OFF! Drain water heater and leave drain plug out all winter.
2. Drain fresh water tank - leave drain valve open
3.Set the water heater lines to by-pass so the water heater is isolated
4.Open all faucets (hot and cold) and turn the pump on - let it tun until no water is coming out of any faucet - then turn the pump off.
5.Open your low point drains and drain the entire system then close the low point drains.
6. Close all faucets.
7. Connect air compressor to the city water connection. Set the compressor out pressure to 25 - 30 lbs. Turn compressor on and let it run until it shuts off. I use a 2 gallon compressor from Harbor Freight.
8. Start at the faucet farthest away from the city water inlet. Turn faucet on (hot and cold) and let run until no water is coming out. Turn the faucet off. Repeat this process for every faucet working from the farthest to the nearest to the city water connection. Do not forget the shower, the toilet, and the outside shower. Once only air is coming out of every faucet, disconnect the compressor. Open all faucets and leave them open for the winter.
9. Open your grey tank(s) and leave it/them open.
10. Pour antifreeze into traps until it is coming out of the sewer dump connection. Don't forget the shower.
11. Leave the black tank closed and dump about a half gallon of antifreeze down the toilet. This will protect the black dump valve. I always flush my black tank as the first part of winterizing until it is clean, but this is not necessary.
12. You are done! The entire process takes 1/2 hour to 1 hour not including the black tank flush.

In the spring, reverse the process to recharge the system. I only ever had to replace the outside shower faucet because I forgot to blow it out one winter.

Happy winterizing!
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Old 09-03-2016, 07:49 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the helpful advice! Hope to get a couple more camping weekends in this year before winterizing, then button up for a long winter's nap.
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:27 PM   #9
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Regarding the 12v water pump, wouldn't opening the drain points empty the pump lines as well?

Appreciate the replies so far!
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Old 09-04-2016, 01:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob55 View Post
Regarding the 12v water pump, wouldn't opening the drain points empty the pump lines as well?

Appreciate the replies so far!
Running the pump with the low point drain open , could drain the pump chambers , but leave the pre-pump filter screen housing half full , and that amount of water could crack it when the frost hits. Best to be sure , removing the filter screen only takes a minute, then your sure. Most RV pumps can be removed in 5 minutes, and considering their replacement cost ,JMHO, time well spent.
There are a few types of pre-pump filter screens.
Here's a picture of one type.
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Old 09-04-2016, 01:18 AM   #11
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I thought it was a good idea until I blew out the water fill check valve at the TT hose fitting. It also created a leak in the water line crimp fitting which I discovered at a later date.

Really it is so simple to drain and bypass the hot water tank, then pump a couple of gallons of antifreeze through the water system; blowing the water lines is not worth the effort to me.

I went to the farm store and bought a sprayer fitting that plugged into the water pump and a short hose to stick into the antifreeze. Turn on the water faucets unit it runs pink, the excess fills the P traps.
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:41 AM   #12
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I thought it was a good idea until I blew out the water fill check valve at the TT hose fitting. It also created a leak in the water line crimp fitting which I discovered at a later date.

Really it is so simple to drain and bypass the hot water tank, then pump a couple of gallons of antifreeze through the water system; blowing the water lines is not worth the effort to me.

I went to the farm store and bought a sprayer fitting that plugged into the water pump and a short hose to stick into the antifreeze. Turn on the water faucets unit it runs pink, the excess fills the P traps.
I've been doing it for 10 years with no issues. I actually run the air pressure as high as 60 lbs. I have never has an issue with the water pump either. As long as any remaining water has room to expand if it freezes there is never a problem, which is why I leave all faucets open all winter. Also, I do put a little antifreeze in the toilet. It helps keep the seal from drying out over the winter. I just don't relish the thought of cleaning and sanitizing the water system each year because of antifreeze. Also, my pump is straight thru. There is no pre-pump filter screen.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:39 PM   #13
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I hate sanitizing the water tank but 80 degree summer night and a partially filled tank gets the better of me.

Flushing the anti freeze is not an issue as the pink RV antifreeze is potable should some get left in the nooks and crannies of the pipes.
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Old 09-07-2016, 07:36 AM   #14
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Do as you will. Both ways take about the same amount of time to winterize. My way takes ZERO time to flush lines and recharge the system in the spring. I will not drink pink water.
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