Community Forums

Logthumper · 04-06-2008, 06:09 AM

At least two companies manufacture a "Cheater Box", which is sold thru several RV suppliers.

I spent several hours this morning doing a "Search/Find" for information on "Cheater Boxes". Lots of opinions and doom/gloom theory, but it appears most are from people who have no experience from ACTUAL use of the device. However I do agree with these opinions.

But I'm NOT looking for theories as to why they should not be used or why they are of a poor design.

THIS IS WHAT 'M LOOKING FOR:

I am looking for information from people with personal experience where a Cheater Box actually caused problems/damage to your RV or campground wiring?

Logthumper · 04-06-2008, 06:09 AM

At least two companies manufacture a "Cheater Box", which is sold thru several RV suppliers.

I spent several hours this morning doing a "Search/Find" for information on "Cheater Boxes". Lots of opinions and doom/gloom theory, but it appears most are from people who have no experience from ACTUAL use of the device. However I do agree with these opinions.

But I'm NOT looking for theories as to why they should not be used or why they are of a poor design.

THIS IS WHAT 'M LOOKING FOR:

I am looking for information from people with personal experience where a Cheater Box actually caused problems/damage to your RV or campground wiring?

M&EM · 04-06-2008, 08:08 AM

I have a cheater box that I bought after the purchase of our 2003 mh with 50 amp shore power capability.

There have been a number of CGs in which we tried to use it only to find that the GFI CBs of these CG would trip.

In one instance we did have an opportunity to hook into 2 separate but adjacent 30 amp branch circuits.---That did not work well either. One of the two 30 amp branch circuits became overloaded and tripped due to the imbalance of the motor homes original wiring and load distribution on its 2 line legs.

Either one of these two legs are allowed to exceed 30 amps in a 50 amp wired RV.
If one were to be aware of the loads on each leg it might work ok.
So, we haven't used it much at all after that. It did come in handy tho when our auto switch over relay for shore power/Gen failed. I used the cheater box parts to improvise a manual switchover setup!

UPS 34 · 04-07-2008, 12:09 AM

I have one and have only used it 3 times in 2 years. It worked fine. I just don't like the fact that you can't run a surge protector with it. But I do like the AC and sometimes need 50 amp.

RustyJC · 04-07-2008, 04:10 AM

Just a couple of points of clarification:

A 30/20 amp cheater box will supply 30 amps on one leg of the RV's 50 amp service and 20 amps on the other for a total theoretical ampacity of 50 amps, limited by the shore power breakers. True 50 amp service provides 50 amps capacity on each leg of the RV's 50 amp service for a total theoretical ampacity of 100 amps.

A cheater box cannot be used where GFCIs are installed in the shore power box as neutral leg currents will be unbalanced relative to the respective 30 amp and 20 amp hot legs and will trip the GFCIs.

Rusty

TandW · 04-07-2008, 12:00 PM

Idea. Try using your 30amp in normal fashion, but plug your converter/charger into the pedestal at the 20amp receptacle. You would be amazed!!

dieselclacker · 04-07-2008, 03:04 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TandW:
Idea. Try using your 30amp in normal fashion, but plug your converter/charger into the pedestal at the 20amp receptacle. You would be amazed!! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not clear what you mean.

John66 · 04-07-2008, 09:07 PM

One key to using such a box is that the 2 sources, whatever they are, are 180 degrees out of phase. Carry a 120/240 test lite and check for 240 between the left and right blades, and 120 between the bottom blade and each of the other 2 blades.

Also, make sure you know what devices are on which leg of the power. That way, you can plug the higher draw side into the higher current source.

TandW · 04-08-2008, 04:15 AM

Dieselclacker; I am sure there are many who have a simple plug-in converter/charger such as my Intell-power. All you do do is unplug it from here and plug it in over there on the pedestal with a 15 amp cord. Try it!!

Logthumper · 04-08-2008, 05:24 AM

Thanks for the feedbacks. I built one over the weekend. Plugged it in to 2 different 115v outlets at my home and ran some checks. Appears to do just what its supposed to do. Worked fine.

Logthumper · 04-08-2008, 06:12 AM

TandW:
I agree, but thought there might be an easier way without changing any wiring. But after your post, I got out the schematics and it looks like it should work fairly easily. Just about everything 115v, except the 2 Air Conditioners and water heater, is run thru the Inverter/Charger which has 2 115v outputs. The Inverter/Charger is off its own circuit breaker and not run thru the EMS. A 20A pedestal outlet should handle the Inverter/Charger load. This would leave the 30amp pedestal outlet for the 2 Air Conditioners. Raining like crazy now so can't get out there and do some wiring checks. Thanks for geting my thinking back on track.

See you're a Navy man. I was onboard the USS Tortuga as a Radioman in the late 50's

TandW · 04-08-2008, 08:03 AM

Logthumper; I don't want to lead you down the wrong path. I was talking about "converter/chargers". These are much simpler than "inverter/chargers". Additionally, I was talking about an aid to a coach with 30amp service. It works for me. But I suppose most folks could split their inverter/charger away from the rest of their AC service. What trouble is another cord to plug in if you stay awhile. I was an MM on the Southerland for three years until she was recommissioned to the Reserves. 2 knots, no smoke!!