 |
|
01-05-2008, 02:00 AM
|
#1
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 284
|
Does anyone know anything about the Lightning Rod 110-volt water heater kit? I upgrade from a Class C to a Class A and in the process I went from a water heater that I could choose either electricity or gas to a water heater that is gas only. I prefer to save as much propane as possible so I miss the electric option. Thanks
__________________
2008 Itasca Sunstar 32 K
2005 Honda Element
|
|
|
|
| |
|
 |
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
01-05-2008, 02:42 AM
|
#2
|
|
Senior Member
Nor'easters Club Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Gardiner, NY USA
Posts: 736
|
Is your Water Heater under warranty? If it is, Attwood and Surban say they will void warranties if these are installed. If you are out, I have not heard of any major problems.
__________________
Lenny and Chrissy
2 Boys & My Pups
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-05-2008, 02:46 AM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 284
|
Yes, brand new unit so it is still under warranty. I think my plan of attack is to see how much gas the water heater uses and if it is just too much than to use the Lighting Rod until it is time to upgrade the whole unit.
__________________
2008 Itasca Sunstar 32 K
2005 Honda Element
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-05-2008, 03:27 AM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
Official iRV2 Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: N.E. Ohio
Posts: 807
|
bjbkkb -
One of the questions we asked when we took on the the Hott Rod product was if they had ever had to replace a customers tank due to their heating element compromising the tank in any way. And the answer was never. Although they had seen customers either cross thread the units in or something to that effect and they went ahead replaced the tank even though it was not the products fault. They seem like a really good company. Lightning Rod maybe as well, just have never talked with them. We carry both and they are similarly priced.
Here's a link to both:
Hott Rod
Lightning Rod
__________________
11 Winnebago Cambria 30C
03 Jeep Liberty Renegade
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-05-2008, 03:58 AM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 284
|
Warpath, thanks. Seems like you are familiar with the Hatt Rod product. Is it a pretty straight forward install? How about the switch?
__________________
2008 Itasca Sunstar 32 K
2005 Honda Element
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-05-2008, 05:05 AM
|
#6
|
|
Senior Member
Official iRV2 Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: N.E. Ohio
Posts: 807
|
Very easy to install, pull the drain plug out and screw in the Hott Rod element, locate a spot and stick the thermostat to the tank and plug into a 110 source.
I would go with the switch kit since it is lighted and reminds you to turn it off when not needed.
Bill
__________________
11 Winnebago Cambria 30C
03 Jeep Liberty Renegade
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-07-2008, 12:28 AM
|
#7
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 284
|
Warpath, I will give RVupgrades a call today about ordering one. Thanks.
__________________
2008 Itasca Sunstar 32 K
2005 Honda Element
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-07-2008, 04:45 AM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
Mid Atlantic Campers Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,601
|
A few yeas ago I added the HotRod after being advised by our own "RV Wizard". I later transfered it to our present MH.
I never have had a problem and it has saved what seems like tons of propane.
Go for either model...they are both good products.
__________________
04 Winnebago Sightseer, 35N, W22 Chassis
Amateur Radio - WB2LOU
Education is the only legal cure for Ignorance. The Stupidity of many is incurable.
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-07-2008, 07:19 AM
|
#9
|
|
Community Moderator
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Florida Cooters Club
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Silver Springs, FL. USA
Posts: 9,017
|
I used a simialr product in tow older Rvs we had - worked great and never caused a problem.
You can always remove it easy enough if you have to have a warranty problem with your heater. The Magnuson Act protects you - Atwood cannot void your warranty simply because you used an aftermarket product. They can, however, use their captive engineering staff to make a determination that the Hott Rod caused a problem and you likely would not have the resources to fight their "professional opinion".
__________________
Gary Brinck
2004 American Tradition; 2007 GMC Acadia
Homebase in the Ocala Nat'l Forest near Ocala, FL
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-12-2008, 04:24 AM
|
#10
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Trenton ON Canada
Posts: 69
|
Good Day
Installed a new electric heater kit and have used it for two seasons..
At the end of last season , the heater kit started tripping the trailer ground fault..I figured this out by connecting the electric heater directly to my house outlet with ground fault , to ensure it was in fact the electric heater causing the problem...
The unit cost around $85 from campers world ( not sure of make) ...I think it would have been alot cheaper to have used propane for two years. However , it is difficult to make this dollar comparison.....Anway this has been my experience and I don't think I will buy another electric heater kit...
__________________
Barrie & Brenda
2004 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 30' with slide-out
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-13-2008, 01:47 PM
|
#11
|
|
Senior Member
Nor'easters Club Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Gardiner, NY USA
Posts: 736
|
Quote:
|
Originally posted by RV Roamer:
I used a simialr product in tow older Rvs we had - worked great and never caused a problem.
You can always remove it easy enough if you have to have a warranty problem with your heater. The Magnuson Act protects you - Atwood cannot void your warranty simply because you used an aftermarket product. They can, however, use their captive engineering staff to make a determination that the Hott Rod caused a problem and you likely would not have the resources to fight their "professional opinion".
|
I am telling you what the manuafactures tell us in their schools. If you have time to fight and have your RV held up over this matter, I guess its your business. I would not want someone denying a warranty claim because of this. If your unit is out of warranty, by all means.
__________________
Lenny and Chrissy
2 Boys & My Pups
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-16-2008, 06:38 AM
|
#12
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 284
|
OK, time for a little technical advice. Where do folks plug the Hott Rod into. On my Itasca Sunstar the nearest 120 VAC connection is in the storage compartment aft and below the water heater.
__________________
2008 Itasca Sunstar 32 K
2005 Honda Element
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-27-2008, 01:23 PM
|
#13
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 284
|
Did the install (got soaking wet twice but now twice as smart  ) last weekend. Camped two weekends in a row. Hot water without the gas. Nice. Now to tackle the fantastic vent install in the roof.
__________________
2008 Itasca Sunstar 32 K
2005 Honda Element
|
|
|
|
| |
|
01-27-2008, 01:42 PM
|
#14
|
|
Senior Member
Nor'easters Club Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Gardiner, NY USA
Posts: 736
|
Quote:
Originally posted by bjbkkb:
Did the install (got soaking wet twice but now twice as smart  ) last weekend. Camped two weekends in a row. Hot water without the gas. Nice. Now to tackle the fantastic vent install in the roof.
|
Fun Hugh!!  As long as you have power to the roof fan already it is pretty easy. Make sure you have a heat gun (makes removing sealant easier) a plastic puddy knife, etc. By a tube of dicor (depending on your roof type) and a nice dry day! If you are doing a replacement from a cheep fan to a better one, it should take no more then 1 1/2 hrs(if you work slow).
Good luck and if you have any questions let me know.
__________________
Lenny and Chrissy
2 Boys & My Pups
|
|
|
|
| |
|
 |
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|

»
Recent Discussions

»
Upcoming Rallies
No events scheduled in the next 365 days.
|
»
iRV2 on facebook
|