|
|
08-05-2011, 04:05 PM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Evergreen Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 260
|
How do I trace Coax cables
2007 Gulfstream Class A. Neither the Satellite Tripod nor Cable inputs at the rear of the coach provides signat at their termination in the A/V cabinet. How can I trace the cables to find the break or missed factory termination?
__________________
2015 Evergreen Bayhill
340 RK
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
08-05-2011, 04:26 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bolivia, NC
Posts: 1,401
|
My cable input from outside had a very poor signal to the tv's. I just disconnected it at both ends & ran a new cable from the hookup point in the basement compartment, then under the rv following the wiring harness & using the clamps for the harness, then up thru the floor at the dash & up to the electronics compartment overhead. A little bit of a pain in the B*** , but we now have a good connection.
__________________
Dan Sees, , 2013 Winnebago Journey 42e, 2014 Featherlite Car Hauler 3110 17.5', 2008 Mazda MX5,
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser,2018 mercedes Benz GLA 250
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 05:02 PM
|
#3
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Traveling the lower 48
Posts: 2,450
|
To see if you have a shorted cable somewhere you just need to plug a short piece of coax into the connection in question and strip the center conductor and a bit of the shield. Use a meter to check for continuity. You should NOT get any indication if you touch one probe to the center conductor and the outside collar. If you do show continuity then you have a short and the only likely cure is to run a new cable.
We use a battery connect to a coax and a beeper connected to a coax to determine if the run from one end to the other even exists.
If you have a cable with no short but you also have no connection from one end to the other you are going to need to run a new cable.
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 06:28 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Evergreen Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 260
|
I'm thinking that somewhere in the middle, there was a connection that wasn't made. It doesn't make sense that neither of the 2 runs have signal in them.
__________________
2015 Evergreen Bayhill
340 RK
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 06:38 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 413
|
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 06:51 PM
|
#6
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Caledonia, MI USA
Posts: 260
|
Hey Bill,
I just wanna say "THANKS" , ... for being a member and taking such an active part to help all the rest of us on this board. You have helped me several times, as well as countless others that are 'electronically challenged', shall we say? Or sometimes just can't figure something out.
I regularly lurk around here just to hear the answers to everyone question. Without a doubt your advice is usually 'spot on'.
Your counsel is appreciated by ALL.
michigancamper
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 06:58 PM
|
#7
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Traveling the lower 48
Posts: 2,450
|
Camper, thanks. I do appreciate it when someone just takes a moment to say thank you.
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 07:15 PM
|
#8
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Traveling the lower 48
Posts: 2,450
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by movin-on
|
Take one of these:
Fully Insulated 9V Battery Snap Connectors : Battery Snap Connectors | RadioShack.com and connect the bare center conductor and shielding of some coax to this and an F connector to the other end and add a 9-volt battery. Now, take one of these:
Piezo Element 1500-3000Hz - RadioShack.com and make the same connections with another short piece of coax. You plug the 9-volt battery with coax into one end of a coax run and the buzzer into the other. If it beeps you have a good connection. If it doesn't you move the beeper around until you either find the other end of that cable or discover that there is no other end!
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 08:21 PM
|
#9
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Caledonia, MI USA
Posts: 260
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Adams
Take one of these:
Fully Insulated 9V Battery Snap Connectors : Battery Snap Connectors | RadioShack.com and connect the bare center conductor and shielding of some coax to this and an F connector to the other end and add a 9-volt battery. Now, take one of these:
Piezo Element 1500-3000Hz - RadioShack.com and make the same connections with another short piece of coax. You plug the 9-volt battery with coax into one end of a coax run and the buzzer into the other. If it beeps you have a good connection. If it doesn't you move the beeper around until you either find the other end of that cable or discover that there is no other end!
|
see what I mean?
for $5 and change...
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 08:30 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Locust Grove, Virginia
Posts: 345
|
When I purchased my motor home it was a repossessed unit I got from the bank. All of the A/V equipment had been removed by cutting the wires or just pulling the unit out. No TV’s, no surround sound, none of the wires in the A/V area above the passenger seat were labeled or connected to anything. Luckily the stuff on the roof, the satellite dish and air antenna, were left intact and connected.
I had the A/V equipment to install but none of the wires were labeled. I had to weed out all the surround sound speaker wires, power / grounds, and the coax cables, and that was a real nightmare. I’ll just cover the tracing out of the coax cables for now. I used the same method on the speaker wires but that is another story.
I disconnected all the coax cables at each component. Now all the cables should be open between the shield and center conductor. Using a digital ohm meter I tested all the cables at the front where the A/V stuff was connected. I checked continuity from the shield to the center conductor. All that were ‘open’ I marked with green electrical tape. Those that shown continuity I marked with yellow tape, and tried to locate where that cable went. I only had one to locate and it went to the connector at the back to hook cable TV to the rig. The connector on the end was shorted. That was an easy fix, and that also told me where that cable went. Once I installed a new end on the cable it worked properly. I used my little label maker to mark it as “Cable In”. Now all the remaining cables shown open between the center and the shield so now I know they not shorted anywhere. I then used a cable connector and a shorted piece of coax connected to the other side of the connector, to check for which cable went where. For example, I put my test connector on the cable at the satellite on the roof, (now on this cable only, the shield is shorted to the center connector) then went inside and tested all the cables once again for continuity between the shield and center conductor. When I found the cable with continuity between the shield and center conductor, I knew that cable went to the satellite and labeled it. I proceeded for each coax cable until I was able to label each one. All my cables were good. I did have some ends that were not very good and replaced them. After several days of checking wires, I now have surround sound and satellite TV working on both the front and rear TV’s.
Here is a drawing of the test end and connector I used. I wrapped the shield around the center conductor and soldered it just to make sure I had a good connection. I hope this helps.
I really like Bill's idea of checking the cables, but I had the connector and an old cable end, so I went simple and cheap. I also set my meter to the lowest ohm scale to detect any resistances in the cables. I consider myself very fortunate all my cables were in great shape. Just a few minor end changes and I was all set. I just didn't know what went where.
__________________
Wayne, Diane, & Bentley (our 22 lb. alarm system) 02 Pace Arrow 37A-Workhorse, 01 Jeep Wrangler toad
|
|
|
08-05-2011, 11:18 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 2,639
|
The above gear will tell you if you have an open or a short, but it won't tell you where. Even a telco type "Cat & Mouse" won't do it unless you can touch the cable. What you need is a Time Domain Reflectometer (TDR), that shoots a pultz down the cable and tells you how far down the coax your problem is, right up to the connectors on either end. It's also expensive, but you asked...
If you can't find the issue, it's time to pull a new one that you trust.
__________________
_______________________________
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
|
|
|
08-07-2011, 07:58 AM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Evergreen Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 260
|
Thanks for all the responses. I have tried and found that there is a break in both lines somewhere hidden in the coach. Rather than tear apart cabinetry, floor, etc to save a few bucks in cable, I will put in 2 new runs of coax. That way I wil know what I have and where it is.
__________________
2015 Evergreen Bayhill
340 RK
|
|
|
08-07-2011, 08:39 AM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
|
That is the best option, use quality RG-6 lease, Far too many coach makers do not buy the slightly and I mean SLIGHTLY more expensive RG-6. in 100 foot rolls it is often the same price as RG-59)
__________________
Home is where I park it!
|
|
|
08-09-2011, 08:29 PM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Forest River Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 163
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbike
My cable input from outside had a very poor signal to the tv's. I just disconnected it at both ends & ran a new cable from the hookup point in the basement compartment, then under the rv following the wiring harness & using the clamps for the harness, then up thru the floor at the dash & up to the electronics compartment overhead. A little bit of a pain in the B*** , but we now have a good connection.
|
OK, my problem is a bit different but I am hoping you guys will agree that the solution is the same......We have a 99 Tropical with analog tvs. We aren't full timers so I want to use my 26' flat screen from my house on the buffet to get away from cranking your head up and away to watch it up front above the dash. (I will do something with the area the analog is in at a later date). Can I just run new coax/cable from the connection in the basement to where I want it like dsbike suggests? Can I come in along side of the slide?
__________________
Norm & Louise
SE Washington State
2004 HOLIDAY RAMBLER AMBASSADOR 38'
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|