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Old 10-16-2016, 12:24 PM   #1
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"No LNB Voltage" Issue with Travl'er/Hopper 3

Based on the detailed write ups by TechWriter I decided to try out our home Hopper 3 receiver with a used Travl'er SK-1000 system that I purchased recently on Craigslist. Cable A is connected to port 1, Cable C is connected to the 2nd port and Cable B is not connected (DPH LNB)

However, after following the directions as suggested, I am running into the "No LNB Voltage" issue and the unit inevitably goes into the stow mode.

If I use the DPP LNB to align the dish and then replace it with the DPH LNB and test with the Hopper-3, all tests check out ok and I am able receive the requisite channels.

The "No LNB Voltage" issue occurs with the Hopper-3 completely disconnected.

Any suggestions appreciated.
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:42 PM   #2
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The lnb gets it's voltage from the hopper. The traveller gets it's voltage from the plug in the cabinet powered by the inverter. We have to add a "solo Node" to the coax to get the third tuner to have a signal. We have a hopper 2 an the hopper 3 may not need this. Call Winegard support, they are very helpful.
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:50 PM   #3
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The basic resolution is to put an A-B coax switch in line. I put mine so that one goes to the external sat dish connector and other is to the dish on the roof. Common side goes to the Hybrid Solo Node and then on to the Hopper 3.

You set the A-B switch so that the Hopper 3 is not connected to the dish before powering up the Winegard control box and starts search mode. Search mode is the only time the control box tries to provide power to the LNB. Once search is finished it stops providing power and you move the A-B switch to connect the Hopper to the dish and all is good.

Personally, I unplug the Winegard control box and only plug it in to search and to store. Saves a little power when boon docking.
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:35 PM   #4
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Right, the No LNB Voltage issue occurs with just the Winegard Controller box providing voltage to the LNB and nothing else connected to the dish. Hence, I am assuming that absence of the A/B switch is not the issue.

So, with out any RG6 cable connected to the Travl'er….
  • It finds all three satellites with the DPP LNB
  • Gives the no LNB Voltage error with the DPH LNB

  • If I position the dish with the DPP LNB and swap out the DPH LNB, attach the Hopper to Port A, I get a good diagnostics check suggesting my cables are attached correctly.
When I then retry to test the system with the Controller (Power down/restart) with Hopper disconnected, I again get the No LNB voltage error.

At this point, with situation 3, I am only testing the Hopper, so, directly attaching the RG6 cable to the Hopper and do not have the Solo Hybrid Node included. Thanks.
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Old 10-16-2016, 04:36 PM   #5
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When you connect the new Hopper 3 compatible LNB port 1 on the LNB has to connect to "C" on the Trav'ler base. "C" is where the internal electronics under the base connect to search and power the LNB. Could this be the problem?
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
When you connect the new Hopper 3 compatible LNB port 1 on the LNB has to connect to "C" on the Trav'ler base. "C" is where the internal electronics under the base connect to search and power the LNB. Could this be the problem?
Randy,
Thanks. So, I am definitely not connected the way you suggest.

Currently, Cable A is connected to port 1, Cable C is connected to the 2nd port and Cable B is not connected (DPH LNB) based on
https://rvseniormoments.com/tech-doc...-modification/
(I am considering port 1 and 2 together on the left side and port 3 separately on the right side of the LNB)

How should the remaining cables be connected?
Cable C to Port 1
Cable A to ?
Cable B to ?
Thanks again.
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:46 PM   #7
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When doing a Hopper 3 solution, the port 2 and addl. LNB ports on the Hybrid LNB should still be connected to the other 2 Coax and connected to A and B on the moving part of the dish base, just to provide water proofing. There does not need to be anything connected to A and B on the fixed part of the base. I have plastic caps pushed over them for waterproofing.

Signal carrying:

Hybrid LNB Port 1 to "C", "C" on Fixed Base to A-B switch then on to ODU Port of Hybrid Solo Hub, Host Port of Hybrid Solo Hub to Sat. Connector on Hopper 3. I connected a Client Port of Hybrid Solo Hub to the coax going to my Bedroom Sat Rcvr Jack to allow for a future Joey in the bedroom. Terminating Plug on the other client port of the Hybrid Solo Hub.
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:02 PM   #8
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Trav'ler base Port A should be connected to DPH LNB Port 1 (left). Trav'ler Base Port C should be connected to DPH Port 2 (center).

Trav'ler Base Port C is the logic board in the Trav'ler Base. That logic decodes the satellite signals and reports the results to the Controller Moule through the control cable.

The right port of the DPH is for another dish input an obviously should have nothing connected. Therefore Trav'ler Base Part B cable is not connected.

The No LNB Voltage comes from the the Trav'ler logic in the Trav'ler base is trying to receive from the DPH LNBF and it cannot recognize the signal because the Hopper 3 is connected and the DPH has switched to the Hybrid mode. The Trav'ler logic can only receive DPP signals which the DPH puts out when it is not connected to a Hopper 3.

That is why a coax switch is recommended to be able to easily disconnect the Hopper 3 when seeking the Trav'ler.

Better photos of the Hopper 3/Trav'ler cabling: Hopper 3 Trav'ler Mod.

If you are getting No LNB Voltage without the Hopper 3 connected, your cabling is wrong.

I converted my Trav'ler a few days after TechWriter and have been using it since the release of the hopper 3.

Currently I have been experiencing long Searching time. What I am trying is to connect the Hopper 3 to the Trav'ler before the Controller is powered on. Then disconnect Hopper 3 and power up the Control Module. The thought process is to "charge" up the DPH LNBF to make homing the Trav'ler quicker.
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Old 10-16-2016, 09:58 PM   #9
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Randy and Mark,
Thanks so much for your guidance and detailed explanation of how the Trav'ler works. Finally found out the issue to be incorrectly identified cabling . During my initial identification of the cabling with a multi-meter, I identified/labeled cable A correctly but mis-labelled cables B and C. Swapping cables B and C on port 2 took care of the problem .

I now have signal lock on all three satellites and diagnostics on the Hopper 3 worked out fine as well. It did seem to take much longer for the dish to lock in with the DPH-LNB compared to the DPP-LNB.

Thanks again to everyone for helping out. This is a great community!
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale & Mark Bruss View Post
Trav'ler base Port A should be connected to DPH LNB Port 1 (left). Trav'ler Base Port C should be connected to DPH Port 2 (center).

Trav'ler Base Port C is the logic board in the Trav'ler Base. That logic decodes the satellite signals and reports the results to the Controller Moule through the control cable.

The right port of the DPH is for another dish input an obviously should have nothing connected. Therefore Trav'ler Base Part B cable is not connected.

The No LNB Voltage comes from the the Trav'ler logic in the Trav'ler base is trying to receive from the DPH LNBF and it cannot recognize the signal because the Hopper 3 is connected and the DPH has switched to the Hybrid mode. The Trav'ler logic can only receive DPP signals which the DPH puts out when it is not connected to a Hopper 3.

That is why a coax switch is recommended to be able to easily disconnect the Hopper 3 when seeking the Trav'ler.

Better photos of the Hopper 3/Trav'ler cabling: Hopper 3 Trav'ler Mod.

If you are getting No LNB Voltage without the Hopper 3 connected, your cabling is wrong.

I converted my Trav'ler a few days after TechWriter and have been using it since the release of the hopper 3.

Currently I have been experiencing long Searching time. What I am trying is to connect the Hopper 3 to the Trav'ler before the Controller is powered on. Then disconnect Hopper 3 and power up the Control Module. The thought process is to "charge" up the DPH LNBF to make homing the Trav'ler quicker.
Thanks. Agree your statements above work and are correct, I have used them.

However, I found thru trial and error that using port 1 to "C" and then on thru to the Hopper 3 works, too, and it seemed to give me better sensitivity in low signal conditions. The difference is very minor.

For sure if you try to connect Port 2 to the Hopper 3 the Hopper 3 will not function correctly and will give an on-screen error saying you are connected to the wrong port on the DPH LNBF.
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:05 PM   #11
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The Hopper Twilight Zone

I have read several of the posts on making a Hopper work with a DISH Travel'r antenna. Here's my challenge:

-My Hopper is NOT a Hopper 3. I am not sure whether it is a Hopper 1 or a Hopper 2, but I cannot follow the excellent advice given in this thread specifically for a Hopper 3.
- I have a Tom Hughes diagram and a Winegard diagram which I think I have followed:
-Port A on Travel'r to port 1 on Solo Node
-Port B on Travel'r to port 2 on Solo Node
-Port C on Travel'r not used
-Lower right hand side of Solo Node is connected to the Hopper
-Upper right hand side of Solo Node is capped....supposed to be a 75 ohm terminator, not sure if it is.
-My Joey does not have a coax input. It has an ethernet cable that is connected to the Hopper. This takes me off of the two diagrams, not sure if it matters
-I have successfully locked on satellites 110, 119, and 129 according to the Travel'r display. Satellite position looks reasonable. I have only hooked up the Hopper after the Travel'r has locked.
-The Hopper is successfully displaying through the tv. I can watch previously recorded shows that I put on this box at the house.

I am failing all switch tests, and I've got indications that there is no signal coming to the Hopper from the roof satellite. I think I need to do the following steps:
-Confirm that my Solo Node connections are correct, hoping someone here can confirm or straighten me out.
-Remove the terminator cap on the Solo Node and check that it is a 75 ohm terminator and not just a weather cap
-Pull a new RG6 3Ghz cable down from the roof to the Hopper. I was told that the cable was an RG6 3Ghz, but I don't see any markings on it, so it is suspect. It is also possible that it is not the correct cable as there are several unmarked cables in the workspace behind the entertainment shelving. It looks like a squid making love to an octopus and it's hard to see much without a flashlight and a well-aimed mirror.

Any suggestions or input on my Solo Node connections would be very welcome. I believe I am very close to success, but.......
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:31 PM   #12
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You say you are running a Switch Check then your cabling from the Hopper to the SOLO is correct.

For the record, a Hopper 1 or Hopper 2 does not need to be disconnected from the Trav'ler dish. That is an issue with a Hopper 3.

Using an Ethernet attached Joey is not approved. However it often works. But for the time being, disconnect the Joey until you have accomplished a switch check.

Exactly which tests are you failing? The equivalent of the Switch Check on previous receivers is now called "Test Installation" which is found under "Diagnostics / Dish"
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:34 PM   #13
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For Dish - for a Hopper 2:

You should have 3 Coax from the LNB to the A, B, C on the Trav'ler. The Trav'ler should have a ES175338 LNB and already have the cables from the LNB to A, B, C correct, unless someone changed it to the newest one, ES201499, for use with a Hopper 3.

For a Hopper 2 you need 2 coax from the LNB to the Solo Node Sat Connectors, I am not sure which of the outputs you need to connect to, but there are not that many combinations so you should be able to figure it out thru trial and error if some other post does not get specific.

Your Hopper 2 must connect to the Solo Node "to host" connector, and you need to put a terminating resistor on the "to client" connector if you are not running a cable from there to a Joey.

Good luck ! Sorry I can't be exact as I changed my Trav'ler LNB to the new stuff required for the Hopper 3 and use the newer Hybrid Solo Node. I never have had mine set up they way you need.
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:49 PM   #14
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Thanks for the early responses! I am going back out tomorrow and this time will take pix of the connections up on the roof. Will also figure out exactly which Hopper I have.
Yes, the Travel'r does have 3 co-ax cables 'on board'. I am talking about the A and B ports that I will call 'outputs', lacking the tech knowledge to do better. Hopefully the pix will help.
I will try to photograph some of the Check Switch screens and messages that I am getting.
I will also try everything again with the ethernet Joey disconnected.

Won't have any new, correct cable or a good 75 ohm terminator for tomorrow but maybe I can confirm the one that's up there and remove that variable.

Perseverance is the key, isn't it?
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