Community Forums

clyon51 · 05-25-2012, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12VT

We've personally proven that a device which comes with a 12 volt wall wart can be overloaded when using a straight power cord on 12 volt power. Around the digital conversion time we smoked several converter boxes and more recently a small cell battery charger. Some items that include a wall adapter for regulated 12 volt power will let out a bunch of smoke when connected directly to 12 volt power.

Most of the time what you're stating is true, most times if it uses 12 volt or some voltage near 12 volt it can be connected directly to a car or RV battery and function perfectly. In some cases doing this will ruin the device.

As I stated, you cannot overload a device with available amperage. If that were the case, plugging a small night light into the same 20amp outlet you run you coffee pot on would destroy it. If you want to go a bit further, you could take that same light and wire it to the electric company pole directly, were there could be 10,000amps and it would just light. No different with 12v.

That said. When anyone has an idea to cut a WART off to use in an automotive application, you need to know the specs on the appliance. If it's voltage operating range is 11.5 to 12.5v, you DON'T want to do that. Why? Because automovtive systems run at 14.5v.

So if you smoked a small 12v electronic devise in an automotive system, it's a sure bet you didn't check the appliance specs and smoked it with VOLTAGE. That's electricity 101.

BCooke · 05-25-2012, 08:44 AM

You connecting to the pole before or after the transformer?

...hide...

clyon51 · 05-25-2012, 10:09 AM

If I'm not sure where the transformer is, I just stick my tongue on the wire. I don't advise anyone doing this, them night lights ain't very bright way up thar anyhoo.

TQ60 · 05-25-2012, 10:53 AM

Why we use the ATS?

We could run directly to the battery full time, but then we would need to be sure the converter is on or other means to insure the battery is charged.

We have our converter off most of the time as it over charges and ruins the batteries.

So the ATS allows for both battery direct when operating on battery, and running from the factory supplied wall wart when AC is available.

Usually do not watch TV when engine is running, and many (this set) are simple devices with a transformer, bridge rectifier and a capacitor, no regulator, so unloaded the voltage is higher than 12 volts.

The regulation is inside the set where the different lower voltages are all developed from the internal regulated power supply.

I did not mention inserting fuses into the connections, that was obvious, connections should be fused at what the wall wart is spec'd at, so if connected to a source fused at 10 amps and wall wart is one amp, then add a 1 amp fuse to the line supplying the ATS.

By having everything plug in the warranty is not an issue as you can show that the provided power is still intact, you do not need to state you were using anything else, as with the ATS the wall wart is connected to the TV, just not maybe providing the power while on battery.

Shadow520 · 05-25-2012, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DC Cruiser

We put a 26" LED/LCD VIZIO in the bedroom last year and just am finishing mounting a 32" LED/LCD VIZIO in the front. They are so thin and light that I was able to rework the front cabinet to eliminate the noggan/shoulder buster cabinet and mounted the TV on a hinged board which when not in use is tucked up out of the way. Also allows one to really enjoy the true IMAX screen we all have out front without the old TV hanging in the way.

CHEERS

I would love to see a picture of this. I just replaced the bedroom TV and will replace the front TV soon and am trying to figure out how to fit a 30" wide (or wider) TV into a 27" wide space between the storage cubby doors on either side. :(

jimbo16720 · 05-25-2012, 12:24 PM

They sell 12volt tvs at the Truckerstore.com.

clyon51 · 05-25-2012, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow520

I would love to see a picture of this. I just replaced the bedroom TV and will replace the front TV soon and am trying to figure out how to fit a 30" wide (or wider) TV into a 27" wide space between the storage cubby doors on either side. :(

I ran into the same problem since with my speakers and two big cabinets, there wasn't enough room left for a big TV.

Without tearing the cabinets out, I was going to get an articulated mount that would swing out (and left or right) to gain access to the cabinets when needed. All other times it would be centered and pushed forward.

Not the only plan out there, but cheap and easy for your minimally handy DIYer.

12VT · 05-26-2012, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clyon51

As I stated, you cannot overload a device with available amperage. If that were the case, plugging a small night light into the same 20amp outlet you run you coffee pot on would destroy it. If you want to go a bit further, you could take that same light and wire it to the electric company pole directly, were there could be 10,000amps and it would just light. No different with 12v.

That said. When anyone has an idea to cut a WART off to use in an automotive application, you need to know the specs on the appliance. If it's voltage operating range is 11.5 to 12.5v, you DON'T want to do that. Why? Because automovtive systems run at 14.5v.

So if you smoked a small 12v electronic devise in an automotive system, it's a sure bet you didn't check the appliance specs and smoked it with VOLTAGE. That's electricity 101.

Hey Clyon, We're not here to argue and don't mean to offend you. This will be our last post on the subject. We used a small cell battery charger which includes from the manufacturer a 12V DC 700mA wall adapter. We plugged in a straight 12V DC power cord which was plugged into a regulated 12V power supply. It smoked the battery charger. The same thing happened with the converter box.

We too understand electricity and the voltage fluctuations in automotive systems. Which is exactly why we can't tell someone with a 110V TV and a 12V wall adapter to cut the cord and wire it directly into their vehicle.

Hope ya'll have a great weekend with friends and family! We're off to do the same.

clyon51 · 05-26-2012, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12VT

Hey Clyon, We're not here to argue and don't mean to offend you.

Not here to argue either and no offence taken. I think we've provided enough information for anyone to make their own decision.

Shadow520 · 05-26-2012, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clyon51

I ran into the same problem since with my speakers and two big cabinets, there wasn't enough room left for a big TV.

Without tearing the cabinets out, I was going to get an articulated mount that would swing out (and left or right) to gain access to the cabinets when needed. All other times it would be centered and pushed forward.

Not the only plan out there, but cheap and easy for your minimally handy DIYer.

Yep, that's the current plan too, but I worry about having too much of the new TV's lower corners extending beyond the current TV enclosure and whether or not it will impede vision while driving or cause other issues such as getting in and out of the cabin. It shouldn't, but I want to consider the unintended consequences before actually doing it.

In any event, it will happen sometime soon.

NITEHAWK · 05-26-2012, 08:02 AM

We purchased three (one after the other) 9" LCD 12V tvs before discovering what was causing them to keep cutting out after about 4 minutes. The 12V power plug (with fuse) was also 12V output on the other end. The input port on the side of the TV had a raised plastic legend that said: 9V IN. Apparently the TV can handle 9V +/-10% which translates to 9.9V or 8.1V. And the supply cords came with the TV!! DUH!!
Went to Radio Shack and got the 12V adjustable power output supply and now TV works great.

Lesson learned: Make sure of your input supply and that it is consistent.