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Old 01-05-2017, 08:29 AM   #1
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USB cable clearance with batwing.

'Morning gang.

I have a question I hope to get help with, I am mounting a Camp Pro Wi-Fi antenna and want to mount it on the crank-up TV mount. I want to attach it to one of the square tubes that lift the batwing. The Winegard batwing uses a single RF cable with the usual TNC connectors. I want to run the USB cable that comes with the Camp Pro through the same opening that the antenna cable uses, hoping to avoid any additional holes in the roof. Sounds good so far.

The problem is that the (STUPID---pardon me) cable has the full sized USB connector, about 0.75 x 0.4 inches.

The question (at last) is: does anyone have any information regarding how the crank-up mount routes the cable through the roof? If it's a largish cutout with plenty of room, I should have no trouble running my USB cable through the same opening. If they just drilled a half-inch hole for the cable, it can't work.

Anybody actually worked on a crank-up antenna interface? I do understand that my coach maybe different, but I would appreciate some feedback before I go up there and start hacking away at the Dicor sealants.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Tom
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Old 01-05-2017, 10:02 AM   #2
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Been there done that.

On my 2001 Tiffin Allegro Bus, the antenna cable goes directly through the roof in the base of the antenna mount. The hole is about the same size as the cable.

Here is the antenna manual so you can see how it is made.
http://www.winegard.com/kbase/uploads/2451808.pdf

After much thought and many nights of worry, I chose the following plan.

1 - Make a right angle bracket from aluminum.
2 - Drill two holes in the vertical side to match the two pins that hold the bat wing to the square poles.
3 - Remove the c-clips, on the pins, pull the pins and install the bracket.
4 - Mount the antenna on the now horizontal portion of the bracket.

This arrangement leaves the new antenna in the correct orientation both when the batwing is up and when it is down.

Next I used tie wraps to route the new wire along the tv wire so it is out of the way of the rods when raising and lowering the antenna. Be sure to leave enough slack to allow for rotation of the antenna.

Now for the nerve wracking part.

I cleaned the roof carefully where the wire was to go and the spot where it would enter the roof. Silicone sealer holds better on a clean roof.

I selected a spot on the roof over the cabinet where i wanted to install my networking gear and drilled a 1/8 inch hole. Using a flashlight I inspected to see that the light went into the cabinet. Next, I carefully enlarged the hole to 1/4 inch and once again looked inside. Seeing nothing I increased the hole to 1/2 inch. Another examination - still nothing, I increased the hole to 3/4 inch. Whew! No wires, no main struts, just a clear hole into the correct cabinet. I figured it as safest just off the sidewall and a foot in front of the front A/C.

Next I acquired a cover plate that is normally used to mount flood lights under the eave of a house from my local hardware store. It is flat on the bottom, raised on the top and has three holes for wires with hole plugs and a gasket.

I carefully drilled two small holes in the roof for the screws and mounted the cover over the hole I drilled using the gasket to seal it.

I installed the cap on the top hole and ran my wires through the two side holes. (I installed both a cell booster antenna and a WIFI signal cable.)
Note: With your large connector you may find it easier to push the wire through the cover before you install the cover on the coach.)

Once that was in place, and everything tested for proper operation, I filled the inside of the cover with white silicons roof sealer until it came out the holes with the wires. Then I covered the cap with the white silicon roof sealer and using the same sealer made blobs each foot along each wire to hold it in place on the roof. (Note: I tried Scotch brand duct tape for the wire - it only lasted one trip in the rain Sigh...)

I chose the flood light mounting plate because it allowed the wires to enter with a gentle curve instead of a tight bend at the roof.

My installation has been in place for over 3 years and about 20,000 miles. I see no signs of a problem even though I have had to replace the antenna twice. Once due to low branches and once due to insufficient torque on the installation bolt.

I hope you have the the same or better luck with your installation.
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Old 01-05-2017, 10:57 AM   #3
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Thanks, Wizard,


I'm still checking, but that helps. I did look at the Winegard mounting template and had already figured that would not be simple and easy. Thanks for the thought of using the outside lighting plates. That may really help.


Just a thought, if you don't already know about it, EternaBond will be almost permanent on the roof. Most folks here swear by it. Also Dicor is super for sealing openings.


Anyway, thanks for the tips.


Tom
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Old 01-05-2017, 11:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLGPE View Post
'Morning gang.

I have a question I hope to get help with, I am mounting a Camp Pro Wi-Fi antenna and want to mount it on the crank-up TV mount. I want to attach it to one of the square tubes that lift the batwing. The Winegard batwing uses a single RF cable with the usual TNC connectors. I want to run the USB cable that comes with the Camp Pro through the same opening that the antenna cable uses, hoping to avoid any additional holes in the roof. Sounds good so far.

The problem is that the (STUPID---pardon me) cable has the full sized USB connector, about 0.75 x 0.4 inches.

The question (at last) is: does anyone have any information regarding how the crank-up mount routes the cable through the roof? If it's a largish cutout with plenty of room, I should have no trouble running my USB cable through the same opening. If they just drilled a half-inch hole for the cable, it can't work.

Anybody actually worked on a crank-up antenna interface? I do understand that my coach maybe different, but I would appreciate some feedback before I go up there and start hacking away at the Dicor sealants.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Tom
Tom
On my Safari there are two holes through the roof under the mounting plate/base of my batwing antenna.....(one for coax ...one for the shaft).
Although it does not show well in this pic the coax hole is 1/2".


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Old 01-05-2017, 12:19 PM   #5
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My solution was to fabricate a L bracket from 1" aluminum and clamp the Camp Pro tube to it and clamp the L bracket to the antenna arm. When the antenna is down the wifi tube and antenna lay flat on the roof. I gave up on trying to fish the Camp Pro usb cable in with the old TV cable so I ran it with the new TV cable and the satellite dish cables. They all drop into the entertainment cabinet beside the front TV.
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Old 01-05-2017, 12:28 PM   #6
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WE put a Bullet radio on the roof and only had to run a Cat-5 cable that we put the end on after the cable was run. That meant we only needed a 1/4" hole for the Cat-5 cable.

We used 3M 5200 to glue a weatherproof box to the roof over the access hole and waterproof connectors to get the cable into the box.
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Old 01-05-2017, 01:53 PM   #7
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Can you not use a mini or micro USB cable and use a adapter to you equipment?
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Old 01-05-2017, 04:03 PM   #8
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Thanks Tex,


Yes, I have ordered a micro USB cable, but it still needs a 1/2" hole to go through. I was hoping to be lazy and use the existing access.


At the moment I am holding off while I debate installing a new Travl'r in place of the KVH unit up there now. At that point, I will be chopping holes up there anyway.


Still investigating, will try to keep up.


Tom
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