12 Volt Battery Drain By Refrigerator

[Auggie56]

I set up a draw test at the battery, by disconnection one battery cable and wired in a 12volt lamp between the battery cable and the disconnected terminal. The test light and stayed on. I pulled all the 12volt DC fuses one at a time. Finally the test lamp went out when I pulled a fifteen amp fuse in the fuse panel designated refrigerator. I put the fuse back in and started pulling connections off refrigerator at various locations from the outside of the RV. Once I pulled the connector from the thermal limiter the light went out again. Its connected to a red wire that comes from a two position junction strip with black with white wires to it. This red wire came right off the junction block into the thermal limiter and disappears over the top of a black plastic with other wires in it. Where does this red circuit go to? Is there a switching component in the refridgerator that's on when on twelve volts. I tested the unit on 120DC and twelve volt AC and it workes pretty good. This unit has American printed on the front of it.


Thanks

[aether_one]

The refrigerator uses 12 volts for control power if it is turned on.

[Skip426]

Could you post the info from the fridge .

3 way? 120v/12v/LP ? Model # ?

If your fridge is a 3 way , most modern RV fridges have dropped the 12volt heater and only run on LP or 120v. Their control panels still require 12volt to operate and control the LP shut off solenoid; but power use is minimal compared to the ones with a 12 volt heating element.

[Old-Biscuit]

Dometic Americana Fridge

12V DC POS/NEG come from RV Battery to Fridge Terminal Block

Then 12V DC POS goes to 'thermal fuse' and then to fridge circuit board ...thru 3A Fuse and to Upper Display


IF fridge is in a slide out it could have OEN Optional FAN for improvide airflow/draft across cooling unit

12V DC POS wire from termonal block up to top section of fridge where a 'Fan T-stat' would be installed on condenser fin (far right) then from t-stat down to mid-center where fan would be (just above absorber tubes...slanted tubes)
Remove upper sidewall louvered vent to access fan t-stat and possibly reach fan.


Fridge DC when operating ........>3A draw (total)
Fan........................................~0.5A draw
Climate Control Heater.............~0.5A draw
LAT (Low Ambient Temp ie: Light) ...~0.8A draw

[Auggie56]

Originally Posted by Skip426

Could you post the info from the fridge .

3 way? 120v/12v/LP ? Model # ?

If your fridge is a 3 way , most modern RV fridges have dropped the 12volt heater and only run on LP or 120v. Their control panels still require 12volt to operate and control the LP shut off solenoid; but power use is minimal compared to the ones with a 12 volt heating element.

I suppose that would speed things along, sorry. It's a Dometic Americana Fridge, vintage 2003 appears to be the original unit and it appears to be a two way one twenty, and LP. Like I say, it works great just runs the battery runs down overnight. It's not in a slide out. I did notice the test light is not real bright, like when you hook it up directly to a twelve-volt source. But when the switches are off, why is this circuit still live? Maybe to avoid an over a heating situation when the unit is turned off or when it goes through the cooling/off cycle? One thing I haven't tested yet, is the battery itself. Which I'm limited to a test light and Radio Shack multimeter. It's a 2016 and the lights are really bright when turned on. However, I "invested" into a pair of six volt Interstates, which I have yet to complete the instilation ("0" cable being made up at NAPA). Back on it this afternoon. Many thanks so far, gentlemen.

[Roy1]

You should check the actual amp drain . If it is say 20 or 30 milliamperes I wouldn’t be too concerned . You may be due for a new battery bank.

[Auggie56]

Originally Posted by Roy1

You should check the actual amp drain . If it is say 20 or 30 milliamperes I wouldn’t be too concerned . You may be due for a new battery bank.

The original battery is two years old, it can be fully charged with everything 12V off and it goes dead overnight. Till we figure this out I put a toggle switch on the outside mechanical door, so when the need comes around I just throw the switch. and I did install two Interstate six volt batteries.

Thanks