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dverstra · 09-02-2017, 05:05 AM

Here is a link to a couple that are full time RVers and have a big solar setup.
Solar Power – Wheeling It

Duoglide1 · 09-02-2017, 09:33 PM

Someday down the road you may decide a different style RV will better fit your lifestyle. You'll take more than a $2K hit when you go to sell a Class A of that size with only a 30amp setup. I know I would not even look at it if I were back in the market for a class A. Good luck to you.

Rvlegaleagle · 09-03-2017, 11:19 AM

ALL REALLY GOOD POINTS AND THANK YOU.

After reading all of these comments I am now leaning towards the 50amp. service. (resale, altitude, cost of conversion from 30 to 50, extra gen charge on batts, etc.).

Question: Can I still get a separately run 30amp cord for the second 13.5 A/C only circuit to run only off shore power using either the "Y" off a 50amp plug in and/or an use an adapter from that 30amp cord to a 20amp plug in at the post? And can I also use just that 30amp circuit to run the 2nd 13.5 A/C off the solar with the inverter/charger?

In other words, can everything but the 2nd A/C circuit be run off of only one leg of the 50amp at shore power and off the gen set? Don't want the battery management system as I believe the inverter/charger already has one of its own.

Thanks for any input.

C.Martin · 09-03-2017, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rvlegaleagle

ALL REALLY GOOD POINTS AND THANK YOU.

After reading all of these comments I am now leaning towards the 50amp. service. (resale, altitude, cost of conversion from 30 to 50, extra gen charge on batts, etc.).

Question: Can I still get a separately run 30amp cord for the second 13.5 A/C only circuit to run only off shore power using either the "Y" off a 50amp plug in and/or an use an adapter from that 30amp cord to a 20amp plug in at the post? And can I also use just that 30amp circuit to run the 2nd 13.5 A/C off the solar with the inverter/charger?

In other words, can everything but the 2nd A/C circuit be run off of only one leg of the 50amp at shore power and off the gen set? Don't want the battery management system as I believe the inverter/charger already has one of its own.

Thanks for any input.

The panel for 50 amps will have all the big loads on either L1 or L2...so one of your air conditioners will be in Leg 1...the other on Leg 2.

Here is the kicker. When you plug your coaches 50 amp plug into a 30A to 50A dog bone adapter...the L1 and L2 of your coach are tied together...as the 30amp outlet has only one hot Leg...

If you want to segregate the 13.5 A/C unit... it can easily be done...either mechanically, or electrically.

1) Add a 30amp inlet box. An inlet has 3 male prongs in a circular pattern...and connect to a female twist lock cord end. The other end of your cord will have the TT-30 plug end...which you can plug into a 30amp RV service pole, or plug into a 20a to 30a adapter...if 20amp is all you have to connect to.

I would run the inlet BOX to a small distribution box with 30 amp circuit protection feeding the rail...next to it a 20 amp circuit breaker to feed the 13.5 A/C unit.

Now you have a 20 amp service in the basement to feed the air conditioner, as well as a 20 amp service in the main distribution panel to feed the air conditioner. They both need to be routed to either a mechanical double pole single throw switch...so you can flip a switch to decide who powers the air conditioner...the main loadcenter....or the inlet panel you added for a single 30amp service.

The other way is an electronic "transfer switch"... you choose which power source has priority...and which is secondary. The two sources come together at the switch...and the output goes to the air conditioner. If the primary source is available...it will power the air conditioner...if ONLY the secondary source is available...it will power the air conditioner. This would make switching automatic.

The reason this comes to my mind is...I was going to add an inlet box in the pin box of my 5th wheel. It's so I could run a bedroom A/C unit from a Honda 2000 inverter generator in the bed of my truck while traveling...or connected to a 20 amp cord to a pole with or without my other air conditioner running off of the 30 amp service.

It's not a difficult job to do...but you have to make sure the new wiring is protected properly...so that you don't create a hazard.

In as much as a technician...let's say working on the air conditioner...would fairly expect...that when the breaker in the main load center to that air conditioner is tripped... it is safe to work on... but in the case of the added circuit...it could conditionally be receiving power from another source. Adding a circuit like I explained is safe for you...since you know what's going on...but, I'm sure it is NOT RVIA approved in any way shape or form.

OLYLEN · 09-04-2017, 10:46 AM

Again with the 50 amp system you have covered you bases on the new RV. There are many ways of skinning the cat, but starting with the 50 amp system gives the widest number of options available that could, might, arise in the future with the smallest additional parts.

LEN