AC DC Distribution Panel upgrade to 50 amps

[lpkirby]

Hi everyone, need some input from you all. I am my electrician neighbor will be upgrading my Bounder 34J to 50 amps. I found this panel and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it WFCO 8930/50 AC/DC Distribution Panel. If you do not recommend it can you lead me in the direction also I need a 50 amp Transfer Switch recommendation.
Thanks everyone,

["007"]

It maybe to small for your needs.
Here is a link that may give you some idea's on where to go.
This sticky link above has some info also.
Here is a thread on 30 to 50 amp conversion.

[shaman52]

Panel is Underwriters Laboratory (UL) tested. Has an a/c main circuit breaker and 12 a/c branch circuits. Like the fact that the 15 DC circuits has a led short indicator for each of the fuse positions. The main and branch circuits (a/c) breakers can be Cutler Hammer, Square-D or Siemens. That makes for easy replacements. It is compact enough, but appears to have enough wiring space to allow your electrician to easily wire it up. Has a 2-year warranty and the company is based out of the RV center of America, Elkhart Indiana. See no problem with this 50 amp a/d and dc power distribution board. Good luck with the installation.

[lpkirby]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 007";1075340]It maybe to small for your needs. [B][URL="http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/ Here is a link[/URL][/B] that may give you some idea's on where to go. This sticky link above has some info also. Here is a thread on 30 to 50 amp conversion.

Thanks for the links and I did read the sticky link. Thank you

[lpkirby]

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaman52 Panel is Underwriters Laboratory (UL) tested. Has an a/c main circuit breaker and 12 a/c branch circuits. Like the fact that the 15 DC circuits has a led short indicator for each of the fuse positions. The main and branch circuits (a/c) breakers can be Cutler Hammer, Square-D or Siemens. That makes for easy replacements. It is compact enough, but appears to have enough wiring space to allow your electrician to easily wire it up. Has a 2-year warranty and the company is based out of the RV center of America, Elkhart Indiana. See no problem with this 50 amp a/d and dc power distribution board. Good luck with the installation.

Thank you for your input. I also liked the wide use of different breakers. I see you are from Albany GA, So am I, grew up in Pelham and born at Phoebe Putney in Albany. Small World!
Thanks again

[puttin]

Here is another. In my opinion, I'd carefully consider what's necessary to convert your rig before doing it- and then ask yourself if it's worth the trouble...just my opininion.

Well, what is 50 amp service?

[JimM68]

Quote:

Originally Posted by puttin Here is another. In my opinion, I'd carefully consider what's necessary to convert your rig before doing it- and then ask yourself if it's worth the trouble...just my opininion. Well, what is 50 amp service?

A good qiestion to ask. We had a 30 amp fleetwood. It had some reasonably sophisticated power management, and we rarely missed having 50 amps.

Our current 50 amp coach also has sophisticated and expensive power management.
I couldn't imagine replalcing all that stuff...

Rather, I'd stay with Fleetwoods 30 amp system, but look at adding a 2000 watt inverter to handle all the house 115v outlets, and upgrading the battery bank.

[lpkirby]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimM68 Our current 50 amp coach also has sophisticated and expensive power management. I couldn't imagine replalcing all that stuff...

I really do not see a huge expense in doing this. I figure less than $600.00 and my electrician is free, so maybe not even that much. I have read so much and unless I am missing something I do not see this as being difficult in the Bounder. Everything is located in one place and I need to upgrade a wire from the junction box to the panel and remove the Pulse Switch that switches between both AC's. Please keep the comments coming so I can keep thinking . lol
Thanks,
Leon

[EngineerMike]

Leon-
I'd say its a useful mod if you do some rewiring to accomplish two things:
1) be able to run 2 AC's at same time (I think you are on that one), and
2) separate some circuits to the second leg so you can run kitchen appliances at same time as a ceramic cube heater.
3) Optional if you don't have 120V hot water- add this option to water heater.

You'll never be able to run 'everything' at the same time. On my coach, we will pop a breaker if I run micro & toaster at same time. But I have a separate circuited outlet I can plug the heater in, and since it has a thermostat, I don't have to worry about it vs high demand kitchen use.

[Wizard]

Leon, I changed my Journey over. Was not a real big job, just took some time and thought and about $200.

I used an IOTA ITS-50R transfer switch, simple and easy to wire.

Reused my original breaker panel by replacing breakers and separating the two bussbars. Ran 6/3 with ground wire from transfer switch the panel and purchased an 50amp extension cord, cut the female end off and used that for power cord.

Had to do some minor changes to the wiring to get things on the right circuits but was not a real problem. Been an electrician all my life.

I'm up in Milledgeville Ga. If I can help any, let me know.

[lpkirby]

Thanks Wizard, you made me feel better, I could not see why everyone was thinking that this is difficult. Cost wise I feel it will be worth every penny and the safety concerns are not there because I have a qualified electrician plus I have been reading tons of stuff and have a real good idea of how he should do it.
Question on the buss bar, did you just cut a separation to create the 2 legs? Just curious, I will replace it anyway so that I can add and extra circuit for my computer stuff.
Thanks for the offer to help, I am living in Texas now but my folks are still in Albany. I hope to have this completed in the next week or so.

Leon

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wizard Leon, I changed my Journey over. Was not a real big job, just took some time and thought and about $200. I used an IOTA ITS-50R transfer switch, simple and easy to wire. Reused my original breaker panel by replacing breakers and separating the two bussbars. Ran 6/3 with ground wire from transfer switch the panel and purchased an 50amp extension cord, cut the female end off and used that for power cord. Had to do some minor changes to the wiring to get things on the right circuits but was not a real problem. Been an electrician all my life. I'm up in Milledgeville Ga. If I can help any, let me know.

[Wizard]

No, mine came with a 240V panel that Winnebago installed a jumper wire between the two buss bars.

I also forgot to add that the Transfer switch cost another $200.

The change was really worth it. Now I can use my basement air with both compressors on, my water heater on electric, warming my sandwich in the microwave while the wife has the washer/dryer going at the same time.

All the lights and tv's on and still power left over.

On the offer for help, you pay the fuel and my labor would be free. I'm itching to go anyway.

[wa8yxm]

I do not like China nor combined AC/DC distribution panels. A good part of that is personal bias.

How about this.. Progressive Dynamics makes a 12 volt distribution panel with a bonus feature... Each fuse socket has a LED assmebly across it.. You blow a fuse the LED lights up. This is a "Stand alone" 12 volt panel, no 120 volt in it at all.

They also make 120 volt panels in both 30 and 50 and I thought they had a 3-bus one too (but can no longer find it) I do recommend the 3 bus 120 volt boxes.

L-1, L-2, INVERTER are the 3 busses.. You need not use the inverter section.. yet.. if you don't have an inverter.

This box gives you the full 120/240 (2 bus) hook up but if you add an inverter the "Sub Panel" for the inverter... Is right there.

Then you can use the converter of your choice, say a Progressive 9200 or if you really like them a WFFCO or .. Well there are a whole lot of converters out there.

But when it comes to 120 volt boxes.. Many RV's just have a good old Square D, same as your house.