AC from inverter for household fridge?

[HD4Mark]

Those of you who have replaced you MH fridge with a household one, how did you connect to a circuit wired to the inverter? As a test I plugged in a tester to the outlet originally installed for the Norcold, unplugged and turned on the inverter. No A/C so I assume it was designed not to run on the inverter while off the grid. Makes sense not to burn the batteries when the fridge runs on propane.

Is there a simple way to move the old outlet onto a circuit connected to the inverter? There is an outlet that is already wired to it that is wired through right under the fridge opening so I can tap into that if it is an easier way.

The new Samsung arrives Saturday and the old Norcold is already out and in my garage. I have it plugged in and connected to 12V, it is running OK so if anyone knows a buyer for a 1200 with a new Dinosaur board and cooling unit just last fall and 2 new fans over the winter let me know.

[BAMAC]

plug in to the ice maker outlet thats what I did works fine

[GaryKD]

Hi HD4Mark,
You may already have calculated this, the inverter needs to be able to handle the max load the refrigerator is rated at.

[HD4Mark]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryKD Hi HD4Mark, You may already have calculated this, the inverter needs to be able to handle the max load the refrigerator is rated at.

Yes and thanks Gary. 2000W inverter, fridge rated at 15A so it is close but from another post I read it only draws 9A by the poster's readings.

We only plan to use it on the inverter if absolutely necessary and run the genny any other time not plugged in.

It looks like the outlets not wired to the inverter are on a different breaker panel so I may be able to move the wire for the fridge to the other panel right next to it for an easy fix.

[Harry B]

Odd. My Horizon came set up from the factory to run the 1200 Norcold from the inverter. Mayby a tripped breaker on the EMS panel under the bed? The EMS conyrols the 120v to the fridge.

[HD4Mark]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry B Odd. My Horizon came set up from the factory to run the 1200 Norcold from the inverter. Mayby a tripped breaker on the EMS panel under the bed? The EMS conyrols the 120v to the fridge.

Thanks Harry,
I did check the breakers and on shore power the outlet works fine. Will take another look tomorrow. The outlet right next to the cabinet works either way.

[fansill]

HD4Mark,

Just curious, why are you replacing your Norcold with a house-type fridge? My Norcold was not one of the recalled units and works great. We boondocked a lot with our old coach and plan on doing that with this one. Should I be worried about the Norcold unit???

Faith

[HD4Mark]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fansill HD4Mark, Just curious, why are you replacing your Norcold with a house-type fridge? My Norcold was not one of the recalled units and works great. We boondocked a lot with our old coach and plan on doing that with this one. Should I be worried about the Norcold unit??? Faith

We had the cooling unit & circuit board replaced last fall with an extended service plan it cost us $500 for the deductible and a total of $2200. While in Florida over the winter both fans quit. Did not get the service plan so we fixed it ourselves and had to pull it into the coach about a foot to reach them through the vent panel outside. Added 2 extra fans to help it actually keep food cold. It quit again on the return trip and that was the last straw. We dragged it out of the MH a couple of days ago and I set it up in the garage with a 12V power supply and AC. After a hard reset, Google Norcold 1200 reset to see how, it seems to be functioning again but we have lost any trust in it working.

Ours was not on the recall list either and I understand the Amish built cooling units are better but with the ESP the service we went to used a factory replacement.

This is not to say yours will not last forever. We don't do much boondocking so rather than worry that we will be throwing out spoiled milk again we decided to go with a residential unit. I hope this is a decision we won't regret.

[KIX]

HD4MARK, I had the same issue with inverter supplied AC at the new Samsung. In our coach the microwave was supplied by a breaker in the inverter subpanel and the reefer was supplied by the main AC panel. So, I just switched the microwave wire to the main panel reefer breaker and the reefer wiring to the microwave breaker in the inverter subpanel. The max. loads are essentially the same amps as well as the breakers. Don't forget to re-label. this solution worked for me as we just don't use the microwave unless the genset is running.
Also, I don't know what Samsung you have but in the 3 months we've had ours I've never seen it use more than about 2 amps on AC.

[HD4Mark]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KIX HD4MARK, I had the same issue with inverter supplied AC at the new Samsung. In our coach the microwave was supplied by a breaker in the inverter subpanel and the reefer was supplied by the main AC panel. So, I just switched the microwave wire to the main panel reefer breaker and the reefer wiring to the microwave breaker in the inverter subpanel. The max. loads are essentially the same amps as well as the breakers. Don't forget to re-label. this solution worked for me as we just don't use the microwave unless the genset is running. Also, I don't know what Samsung you have but in the 3 months we've had ours I've never seen it use more than about 2 amps on AC.

The 2 amp draw is very goo to know KIX. Makes me worry less about the inverter being big enough. Our Samsung is a RF197AC, should be here tomorrow. I need to look closer at it but it appears that everything that does not run through the inverter is on a small sub-panel next to the main. There are several spare positions on the main so I may just move the breaker or add one if it is not big enough. Trick will be to make sure the load is balanced.

So far I have only removed the Norcold and have not changed the opening yet. I would like to measure the new fridge myself before ripping & tearing. Underneath is a vent, the LP alarm, the central vac port and the small switch I installed for the aux fans so it would be best if we could get away with the least amount of wood removed. How much did you need to butcher to get yours in place?

[beaverjim]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fansill HD4Mark, Just curious, why are you replacing your Norcold with a house-type fridge? My Norcold was not one of the recalled units and works great. We boondocked a lot with our old coach and plan on doing that with this one. Should I be worried about the Norcold unit??? Faith

just for safety sake when were you told you wern't on the recall? we have several friends with 05 coaches newmar and fleetwood and they were on the recall. please check again. (just trying to be safe) jim

[HD4Mark]

Quote:

Originally Posted by beaverjim just for safety sake when were you told you wern't on the recall? we have several friends with 05 coaches newmar and fleetwood and they were on the recall. please check again. (just trying to be safe) jim

EDIT: I assume this was for fansill since our cooling unit was replaced last fall with a new factory unit. Response was removed.

[beaverjim]

sorry about that! it was for fansil. jim

[wa8yxm]

NOTE that a 2,000 watt inverter is enough to RUN a fridge which needs a 15 amp breaker but it may not be enough to start it.

I had one fridge rated 100 watts running, a 450 watt inverter would NOT start it, a 750 would. Just so you know.. That said.. I think you won't hve a problem there.

My main concern is putting a 1,000 watt load on the alternator when driving.

NOTE that Norcold and Dometic both make RV fridges that are 100% electric, they do not, however draw, 1,000 watts, nor do they draw 350 (What a traditional RV unit draws on 120 volt) nor the 100 of my little dorm/office unit.

They draw about 40 watts. 3-4 amps at 12 vdc.. Not much at all, that is about the same as a dual 1156 lamp fixture.