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Old 11-16-2006, 01:43 PM   #1
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A friend owns a Class A that only has two house batteries (6v each), located under the entrance steps. He wants to add four more 6v batteries, placing them in the storage compartment adjacent to the entrance door. Will this work? Is there any additional (beyond the obvious) wiring, switches, etc. needed for such an installation? He also has solar panels, will the solar charge the additional batteries???
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:43 PM   #2
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A friend owns a Class A that only has two house batteries (6v each), located under the entrance steps. He wants to add four more 6v batteries, placing them in the storage compartment adjacent to the entrance door. Will this work? Is there any additional (beyond the obvious) wiring, switches, etc. needed for such an installation? He also has solar panels, will the solar charge the additional batteries???
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:10 AM   #3
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unless the two batteries he has now are new I would not tie four news ones directly to them. The addition of four new batteries should be through a battery switch and I would also add at least one more solar panel for the new batteries. The switch will keep the banks isolated from each other and he could select which bank to use. The storage compartment will have to be ventilated for lead acid batteries or the use of AGMs could be used without modification to the compartment.
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:08 AM   #4
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OBG,

I just added two T-105's to my '05 Bounder and mounted them in the same storage area you mentioned. I also added an additional 130W solar panel for a total of two. I have water miser caps on all six T-105's and felt the veltilation in the storage area was sufficient. Also,I did not add the isolation switch as the existing T-105's are less than a year old.

I agree with RV Wizard though, your friend should add at least one more solar panel. I have heard that there is a rule of thumb that states one 130W panel for every two batteries. I don't know how true that is though. I added the second panel because we do a lot of boondocking in the SW and take advantage of the sun as much as possible.

Good luck to your friend.
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Old 11-23-2006, 01:35 PM   #5
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Thanks, I will pass that info along. He does already have two 100w solar panels, should he add one more, just to be safe???
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Old 11-23-2006, 02:40 PM   #6
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Well, I guess it wouldn't hurt, the more panels you have the quicker you're going to charge the batteries. The controller he has for the panels will have to be rated for the total wattage of his panels. In other words, if he has a total of 300W worth of panels, his controller must be rated for at least 300W. In my case, my controller is a BZ Products MPPT 250, rated for 250W. If I add an additional 130W panel, I've got to upgrade the controller.
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Old 11-24-2006, 06:09 AM   #7
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The wattage/amount of solar panels is related to power consumption moreso than number of batteries. If you add more batteries but do not use any more amp-hours between charges than before, the time to recharge will remain the same. But if he adds batteries because he expects to use more power (amp-hours) each night, then he probably will want more charge capability as well.

For those who only occasionally spend a night off-grid, more batteries can assure plenty of power for the brief stay and recharging will generally occur from either the engine alternator while driving or at the next campground with shore power. But if you intend to spend multiple days with only solar panels for re-charging, more or larger panels will likely be a must to replace the power consumed.
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:35 AM   #8
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Don't forget to evaluate your DC cables too. If you add more current throughput to your charging system you need to be sure the DC cables are bid enough to move the additional amps with only minor loss. Short runs with fat cables gives a nice freeway for the electrons to move from array--->charge controller--> battery--->inverter.

Adding batteries means adding cables to and from them. Make sure you keep the + and - runs as close to the same length and be sure to use the same gauge cable between each battery as you use for the runs from the controller to the battery. Long runs require very thick wires to minimize DC current loss. AC is not DC and the longer the DC run the more energy you lose. AC is "designed" to lose less over distance (that is why we use AC for the power grid instead of DC---sorry Mr. Edison).
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Old 11-30-2006, 06:56 PM   #9
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I added 2 more T-105's under the step(4 under the step). I rotated the batteries 180 deg. and modified the battery box and added angle iron cut out one end and all four batteries fit, also easy to fill all the tops are well exposed to fill with a water jug.
I did all this when installing the RS 2000 inverter/charger.
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Old 12-01-2006, 08:59 AM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Marty & Yani:
I added 2 more T-105's under the step(4 under the step). I rotated the batteries 180 deg. and modified the battery box and added angle iron cut out one end and all four batteries fit, also easy to fill all the tops are well exposed to fill with a water jug.
I did all this when installing the RS 2000 inverter/charger.
Marty </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Pictures would be nice, please. I keep evaluating this for mine and put it off for lack of ideas of how to proceed.
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Old 12-01-2006, 09:52 AM   #11
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The above link is to pictures in the photo gallery under Rogueii--Invertor insall. I added two more tT-105 batteries in the compartment to the left of the step and vented them out. I used some Bilge hose I had in the garage. The two hoses on the top of the battery box vent out. There is also one hose coming into the right side of the Battery box, that is vented through the right hand wall unded the step. This alows air to flow, (especially when moving.) I vented, because I have the Invertor installed on the shelf above the battery box. My four batteries are tied together, I did this when the RV was new, and the batteries were equal.
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Old 12-01-2006, 12:25 PM   #12
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[/QUOTE]Pictures would be nice, please. I keep evaluating this for mine and put it off for lack of ideas of how to proceed.[/QUOTE]

I'll take a pic of my 4 T-105's under the step Monday or so.
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Old 12-04-2006, 08:32 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Marty & Yani:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Pictures would be nice, please. I keep evaluating this for mine and put it off for lack of ideas of how to proceed. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'll take a pic of my 4 T-105's under the step Monday or so.
Marty </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Please do. I would much rather put the batteries under the step (with some modifications), than put them in the compartment to the left of the entry.
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:12 AM   #14
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The pictures are already there. If you check out the Photo Section at This Link you'll see another member did this to a 35U (same battery box as the 32V).

I had a 2003 33V, which is identical to the 2002 32V. I'm familiar with your sestup. The compartment just aft of the steps contains your fresh water tank. This area is heated with the auxiliary engine powered heater as well as the LP furnace. It will recirculate the air with your coach's interior air when heating. You do not want to put flooded batteries in there.

What I did was to simply add two more batteries to the existing two 12 volt batteries already there. But, my OEM batteries were new so I wasn't adding new to old. I welded up a battery tray that held two batteries end to end. I then mounted this directly behind the steel splash guard behind the left front wheel. In order to access this area you need to run the main slide out but once you do, you can sit up in that area and get to the batteries very easily. The reason that they had to be end to end was so that the slide would clear them when it went in and out.

If you want to go with extra batteries, and would like 6 of them, I would recommend that you trash the old batteries. Then, do the four 6 volt batteries as shown in the picture. Then add two more to the left side in the same spot I did. That'll give you 6 batteries and they'll also be the better 6 volts golf cart style.

I also highly recommend going with AGM batteries. AGM batteries are not flooded and are truly sealed. They never need water (because they don'thave any) and the don't outgass hydrogen when charging. You can place them anywhere. Because they have less internal resistance they also charge up much faster. I've also found that they give you an approximate 30% boost in runtime. You can draw them down farther than a flooded battery because they hold their voltage higher for a longer period of time, then drop fast near the end. When I went from 4 flooded to 4 AGMs on my first Bus I found a big difference in runtime. By adding two more (total of 6) I effectively doubled my runtime compared to the 4 OEM flooded batteries. They cost more but I feel they're really worth it.
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