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Bmwtech · 03-26-2018, 01:18 PM

Doing a rebuild on my 99’ fleetwood. Since my goal is 8 batteries 800+ AH , 3500watt inverter , stock 5500 watt gen along with a total of 500watts of solar. Anyone have a electrical diagram on wiring in a second transfer switch for the inverter?

MisterT · 03-26-2018, 01:26 PM

do you mean you are 'adding' a secondary ATS, or 'replacing' your current one?

Bmwtech · 03-26-2018, 01:34 PM

Adding a second
I think wiring is pretty straight forward as it’s directly after the first ats. So the line going to the breaker box should be split to the second ATS along with the inverter then output goes to breaker. Right?

bobmac · 03-26-2018, 07:01 PM

I have a 10yr old Dimensions inverter and it has a built in transfer switch. Think you will find most of the inverters used in today's modern RVs also have one. The internal transfer switch obviously feeds only the circuits/outlets connected to the inverter when shorepower is available. You shouldn't need another separate transfer assuming you aren't looking a cheap inverters.

Ron Postma · 03-26-2018, 07:16 PM

What you are looking for is a bypass switch. This device bypasses the inverter if shore power or generator is unavailable (only if not installed in the inverter). You would also need a sub breaker panel. This panel would be feed from a 30 amp breaker installed in your main AC panel. Then the sub panel will have breakers installed removed from the main panel to feed the loads powered by the inverter.

bobmac · 03-26-2018, 07:21 PM

Ron Postma- that is exactly what the transfer switch in the inverter is designed to do. No need for addition hardware if you purchase an inverter such as Magnum product.

twinboat · 03-26-2018, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bmwtech

Adding a second
I think wiring is pretty straight forward as it’s directly after the first ats. So the line going to the breaker box should be split to the second ATS along with the inverter then output goes to breaker. Right?

Doing the way you suggest get everything running on the inverter.

If you have a gas/electric fridge, they draw a lot of power on electric. Best to run them on gas.
An electric water heater will run down the batteries quickly.

The ACs will kill your batteries in 5 to 6 hours.

This is why most inverters are tied in after the main panel breaker to a sub panel wired with only the things you want to run on inverter.

With that kind of setup, you could use this switch.

Bmwtech · 03-27-2018, 02:00 AM

Yes I did go the cheap route with a modified inverter. I plan on getting Xantrex System but that will have to wait. I got a 3500 watt inverter from Home Depot online. It does not have a pass through. My goal is to get a residential refrigerate which will be run by the inverter. With my solar and my 800ah I shouldn’t have a problem. I’ll look into the sub panel

John Hilley · 03-27-2018, 10:57 AM

Just do a you were planning. Add it after the existing transfer switch. Then the inverter is turned on it activates the second transfer switch switching power from the shore cord/generator to inverter. When inverter is shut off it reverts back to regular power from shore cord/generator. Just wire the coil to the inverter. You will need to manually turn off the converter and switch refrigerator to propane.

Bmwtech · 03-27-2018, 11:30 AM

I was rebuilding the refrigerator cabinet and making some adjustment to the frig itself and think I shorted out the propane side of the circuit board. It still runs on 120 but don’t think it will transfer to LP. And I’m not interested in replacing 20 year old tech. I would rather use it for a year or so and put in a residential frig. Just working out the power requirements. At the moment have 6 6volt 210ah batteries plus 200 watts of solar. I pretty much gutted this 99 pace arrow. It’s amazing the kind of low quality workmanship that went into the interior. But I guess that’s how they keep prices down on the lower class a RVs.. On the transfer switch go power has a nice one that even has the secondary for the converter. Then I also need a automatic genny turn on switch. It’s mind blowing how much a rebuild involves.

twinboat · 03-27-2018, 11:50 AM

Find out the watts the fridge uses and divide that by 12 volts to see how many amps it draws.

Now if it comes out to 40 amps@12 volts. That will be 40 amps per hour or 40 AHs from your battery.

Since absorbsion fridges seem to run almost constantly, In 10 hours that will be near 400 AH.

That's more then 1/2 of your battery capacity over 1 night.