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Old 10-27-2016, 03:09 PM   #1
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After coach battery fuse was blown out, fridge stopped working

i have a dometic ndr1292 fridge installed in 2007. two days ago when i tested starting engine from house battery through combining switch, a 350a main fuse was blown. replaced the fuse and everything went back to normal.

the same day evening i noticed ice cream being soft and some ice in freezer was thawed. i restarted the fridge, made sure the fire in back of the fridge was burning.

yesterday evening i noticed the refrigeration section was 65 degrees, and all frozen items were thawed. started generator to run on electric for an hour, no luck either. i realized something was terribly wrong.

looked up the manual on troubleshooting, this morning i got up and checked the control box; two fuses inside the box were all good. called dometic tech support, the rep suspected the cooling unit being out. he recommended having an authorized dealer to check it out. i am in bay area now, called almaden rv, they told me that they have to remove the whole fridge out and dismantle the back of it to know what is wrong, and cost of r/r with a rebuild unit is about $1300.

not sure whether to replace the cooling unit or just trash it and get a samsung f18 instead (though ndr1292 is a stainless steel unit, very nice looking. i have 1200w solar panel and 1300ah lithium battery - had 700ah li working for 1.5 years now and bought 600ah more a few days ago. because of that i was trying if i could just start engine from house battery and get rid of the chassis battery... ouch ).

any thoughts on what should be looked at for now?
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:01 PM   #2
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When you checked the fuses, did you confirm power to the controller ?

Any extra wires on that 350 amp fuse holder that slipped off ?
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
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When you checked the fuses, did you confirm power to the controller ?

Any extra wires on that 350 amp fuse holder that slipped off ?
He said the fire works, he has a bad cooling unit
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:08 PM   #4
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When you checked the fuses, did you confirm power to the controller ?

Any extra wires on that 350 amp fuse holder that slipped off ?
earlier i didn't check the power supply to the control board. upon reading your post, i went out to check while the fridge was on. i suspect one problem:

see below photo i just took:



at the left hand side, the fuse is for control system; at right side the fuse is for 120v ac. when gas was burning, the left fuse had power 13.5v, the right fuse didn't. that was right. i then started generator, i was expecting the right fuse came on power. but nope! though gas fire was out, correct, the right fuse never had power. that tells me that the circuit board has malfunctions. it may well be damaged by the sudden lost of power that day.

the 350 amp fuse was installed by me last year as an added protection against overload. the holder does not have extra lines.

shall i try to source the board so to try?
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:17 PM   #5
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He said the fire works, he has a bad cooling unit
gas is burning but not cooling. so is on electricity.
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:01 AM   #6
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Do you have 120 volts on the black wire coming in and the hot wire going to the burner?
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:22 AM   #7
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If there's no smell of ammonia;

Is the flame blue? Not orange

I would want to try on AC before I called the cooling unit bad. I'd have to research buy I might even apply AC directly to the burner and keep an eye on it.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:01 AM   #8
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Do you have 120 volts on the black wire coming in and the hot wire going to the burner?
the black wire coming in has power but no power out to burner.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:07 AM   #9
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If there's no smell of ammonia;

Is the flame blue? Not orange

I would want to try on AC before I called the cooling unit bad. I'd have to research buy I might even apply AC directly to the burner and keep an eye on it.
no smell of ammonia.
i'll remove the sheet metal cover when rain stops later and give the burner a good cleanup. i have only heard burning sound.
good idea i'll try to bypass the board and apply ac to the heating element directly, for test purpose.

i feel a greater chance of electronic board or connection bad, not the cooling unit. cross fingers...
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:26 PM   #10
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Gents, I removed the cover to clean the burner head, bomber, the yellowish came to my eyes - on the burner, the wall next to it, and on the floor...

Please confirm if this yellowish fluid is ammonia... If yes, does that mean the cooling unit is kaput?

On floor:


On the burner head and surrounding:
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:46 PM   #11
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That's what mine looked like when it stopped working.


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Old 10-28-2016, 07:00 PM   #12
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That's what mine looked like when it stopped working.


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yeah i guess it is ammonia. wondering...did you replace the cooling unit, or replace with a residential one?
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Old 10-29-2016, 12:03 AM   #13
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Had cooling unit replaced.


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