Community Forums

tim myers · 08-01-2015, 06:12 AM

Ac stat died on our SC trip. Found a replacement but on installation. Noticed that the shaft is too short and I can't install the knob. Does someone make an extension for the shaft or do I need to keep looking for the correct stat.

Also having an issue with condensate overflowing and dripping on the floor. Any ideas?

TeJay · 08-01-2015, 06:57 AM

Where is the AC unit located??? We've have had 3 MH's and all AC's were located on the roof. You probably already know that the condensation is supposed to run out and away from the unit to a location so the water can run out of the unit and off the roof.
All moisture runs out and down the side of the MH. That's where I'd start. Take the cover off and find out where the moisture is being routed to run off. Something has to be stopping up the normal flow location and making it run where it is now. Things like mud dobbers, leaves, dirt etc. can accumulate in that area causing your problem.

Letting us know your unit, year and make is always helpful. Individuals with your exact RV will respond.

Can't help you with the stat except I have replaced several RV stats with ones from Lowe's or HD. They were digital and worked just fine. They were less than $25 as well.

TeJay

tim myers · 08-01-2015, 07:51 AM

The stat is mounted in the roof unit. I will post pics when I can. I suspect a partial blockage as I do still have condensate running off of the roof. Not sure if I should have my 250# on the roof or not.

TeJay · 08-01-2015, 09:39 AM

Maybe the age of your AC unit has something to do with the stat location. In our 6 RV's (3- MH's & 3-TT's) all thermostats and controls were on the wall just like in the house. Don't know how an AC can read temperature if it's on the unit. Maybe I just don't know what I'm talking about.

OK, A window AC unit will have it's controls on the unit. Maybe that's what you have. If that's the case then you may have to try and find a specific control for that unit. You might be able to get a sleeve with a set screw on each end and can then extend your control shaft out far enough to put a knob on it. When I was a kid my Erector set had those sleeves with set screws in them. I used the sleeves to attach motors to shafts and pulley's. Also a hobby shop with radio control stuff will have sleeves used to attach aircraft control stuff together. You'd find that on-line easier these days. Most of those RC hobby shops just can't seem to stay open.

I'd check a radio shack store. They have not gone bankrupt. They are just franchised these days. Our local RS owner has 5 stores. RS also is carrying thos RC controlled drones.

TeJay

tim myers · 08-01-2015, 08:51 PM

This is a 2008 Winnie. The roof mounted unit supplies air through duct in the roof structure and returns air through the unit itself. The stat senses the return air temp and that is why controls it. We cross referenced to the stat I bought and it works like it is suppossed to it just doesntt have a long enough shaft to allow installation of the cover and the knob

I will do some research when I get home.

tim myers · 08-06-2015, 05:45 AM

OK, I am home now and can send some photos of the thermostat.

The first picture is of the original stat PN 6703-340, notice how long the shaft is.

Second picture is the replacement stat PN 9330-3411. It is installed but you can see that the shaft is much shorter. Almost an inch shorter. While it functions correctly it does will not allow me to install the plastic cover and attach the knob.

My first thought was to find a different knob or to find some sort of extension for the shaft. What I have found would cost more than getting an original stat with the correct length shaft so that's what I will do.

I took the AC unit apart on the roof to clean the condensate drain pan and what PITA this was. There are two drain holes in the pan but the evaporator coil was directly over top of them. I had to remove about 20 screws and get enough flex to lift and shift the evap coil enough to get a small shopvac hose over the holes to clean them out.

Next item plastic cover it self. Someone prior to me must have used a screw gun to install the four screw that secure the cover to the luan board as they are all stripped. I had slid some toothpicks along the screws to give them something to get some bite on but I am looking for a more permanent solution.

Thought about plastic insert anchors and even a t-nut. Anyone have any ideas?

TeJay · 08-07-2015, 07:39 AM

I've used some of what you mentioned to reinforce luan boards because of stripped holes in dry wall and thin wood boards. Toothpicks stuck in then epoxied will reinforce any wood hole. Plastic insert anchors also epoxied in will also work. They will probably work better because they will spread out in the back when you put the screw in. You may have to slightly enlarge the holes so the plastic anchors will fit. Slather some epoxy on them, push into the holes and let them set up about 5 minutes (if you use 5-minute epoxy.) That will hold the anchor in place when you put the screw in. After the set up put some epoxy on the screws and install and it will hold better than the original. You may also need some slightly larger screws. When you choose a plastic anchor pick one with a shoulder on it so it won't go through the hole. They do make them both ways.

I've probably installed 300 or more of those over the years.

TeJay