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Old 06-28-2018, 08:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Corc View Post
Your transfer switch has two contacts shore and generator. What works on shore contacts have very little bearing on gen performance through same switch. You need to start with the obvious. The compressor is not getting enough volts/amps. Need to figure why, connections contact or generator.
The Champion generator supplies power through.......the shore power contact.
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Old 06-29-2018, 06:47 PM   #16
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True point, I forgot the portable, but I still have ATS concerns, or bad connections.
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Old 07-08-2018, 06:58 PM   #17
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True on the connections. I'm just having a tough time duplicating at home. I will have to drag out the Champion and see how things act at home with that generator.
Question how do you access a hot wire to measure amp load on an RV? Anyplace easy?
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Old 07-08-2018, 08:38 PM   #18
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You have to use a pigtail adapter or old extension cord the you can peel the insulation back to get to the individual wires. I made up one from an old plug and receptacle. Might be a neat tool for your investigation. You may also be able to fit an amp clamp over the wires in or around the transfer switch.

While under load, measure the voltage at your generator and then inside your RV. Should be less than 5v difference. Check voltage right at the AC too. Does the extension cord get hot? Lots of checks should tell us more.
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:21 PM   #19
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I just put an Easy Start system on my 2006 Toyhauler with a 13.5K AC. It starts like a dream now. Don't even flicker the lights. The issue is at about 13-15 amps its maxing out my Honda 2K, which has to run about 90% throttle all day. Considering using my Honda 3K, and eco throttle, to quiet things down.


FWIW
Here is the link: or google MicroAir.net



https://www.microair.net/products/ea...nt=30176048267
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:53 AM   #20
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I think I can be pretty certain that it is the generator at this point. On a simple extension cord supplying 15 amps, the air con instantly fires right up without effort. I tried the generator at the track yesterday on the 30 amp hookup, and it tried to get an air con going, and then all power stopped. The overload light didn't blink. I restarted it to no avail. When we came home, I tried the 15 amp extension cord again, and no effort it started. I was kind of suspecting the generator. I could try the 15 amp output on the generator, but really that isn't enough juice for us at the track anyhow.
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:02 AM   #21
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Exclamation

Ditto that problem. My new Honda 2000i worked hard for about ten days, running 9 hours per day at nearly full throttle. About day 11 it could only keep the AC running for about 30 minutes before the voltage drop cycled my ac pump and it quit blowing cold air for about 5 minutes, then cycled on again. Cold air again for 4 minutes then pump off again. Over and over. Couldn't keep up with the 105F outside temps. Used my Onan 4K onboard for the last 4 days of vacation, using twice as much gas.

Gen rated at 13.3A max, but saw plenty of 14 & 15A times before it would drop voltage enough to kick out the AC pump but not the gen.

Conclusion, Micro-Air Easy Start works great to start the AC, but can't help the general running amperage draw on a Honda 2000i.
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:19 AM   #22
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Exclamation Bad hookup?

Also,,,,,,,,,,,,

I had occasion to run my AC on shore power last summer in Washington. After a few days I started smelling burning plastic when it was on. Opened up the main connection box to see the mfr's wire nut was melting due to poor connection by RV mfr. I cut out the burned wires and made a new solid wire nut connection. No issues with AC smell since then.
FWIW
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:25 PM   #23
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I imagine it isn't great to constantly be maxing out a generator. It was always a struggle to start up the air cons with that generator and it only got worse. I ordered a Briggs and Stratton Q6500 inverter generator. Hopefully it won't be objectionally loud. The race track is a little forgiving. But you hate to bother others with the noise of your generator.
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