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Old 10-03-2015, 09:51 PM   #1
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Another gas refer question

Has anyone ever seen a graph of a new, properly working gas adsorption refer showing showing food box temps vs outside air temperature. I'm sure one of the manufacturers has done the testing but I can't find any info showing the graph.
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:35 PM   #2
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Modern gas adsorbtion refrigerators have a temp sensor in the refrigerator section that shuts down the heat source when the desired temperature is reached, with adjustment. For example my Norcold has settings 1 thru 9 with 9 being the coldest before the heat source driving the adsorbtion cycle is shut off.

So food box temp can be the same with any outside temperature within the refrigerator's operating range when the fridge is working right, AND IF IT IS INSTALLED RIGHT. When hot in or out of the RV more heat is going to flow into the fridge thru the insulation and when the door is opened so the absorbtion cycle will run more to maintain the cold temperature.

If your refrigerator is not working well in hot weather it is possible that the RV maker did not follow their instructions for how to vent the refrigerator so that there is proper air flow behind it.

A good reference for how they work is on the web site arprv.com
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:50 AM   #3
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Ok I hadn't seen that website (it is very interesting) BUT it still doesn't add to the question. I am well versed in gas absorption refers and how they work and how to work on them and what to look for. Mine is 40 yrs old and works as it should except in temps above 90 degrees it starts to warm up. I have read several websites talking about how they will not stay "as cool" internally as the outside air temp climbs, as I noted, "even with a correctly working refer".
We've all seen comments like "park in the shade" , "add cold packs to the freezer at night and move them to the food box in the hot part of the day", etc. All in an effort to keep the food box cool as the day warms.
My question still comes down to the same as postulated in the beginning. I'd like to see testing data and graphs from the manufacturers logging box temp against outside air temp up to say 110 degrees on a perfectly working refer. I've never seen them. Has anyone else ever seen them?
My bet is that they all start to lose performance (even when new and properly working) as the differential temp approaches 50 to 60 degrees, outside to inside (35 inside to 85to 95 outside).
I'll bet $10 that the manufacturer has them.
It would be very interesting to view them.
Some of us do go camp in hot weather and need a cold refer!
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:16 AM   #4
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PowerCat is right. Installation is everything. If the baffle is installed and installed correctly, the refrigerator will work well. I have a 1998 Pace Arrow. Fleetwood usually installs the baffle and installs it correctly. My refrigerator is factory set at 3. If I turn it on it will come on at level three. Winter or summer I leave it at three. I have a thermostat in the frig and it stays at the same temp all the time. In Georgia it goes close to 100 degrees in the summer. I think you are probably right about temperatures that are abnormally high. Arizona in summer can reach 110 degrees. At that temp. the frig might have a tough time.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:07 PM   #5
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ga traveler- I agree with you that if the baffle(s) are installed correctly it goes a long way to operating well. My interest is in finding test data on operations at different temperatures, on properly installed refers.
Some company has empirical data on gas refers vs outside temps. That's what I'd like to see. Haven't seen them published or even "operating specifications" giving outside air temps for operation except for turning the ice makers off at zero degrees.
My unit will freeze bottles in the door if I don't turn it down in "normal" temps so I know it is working near correctly at least.
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:55 AM   #6
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I have never seen the design intent curves you are looking for from any RV absorbtion refrigerator manufacturer but here is something. Note that to get the full refrigeration potential the ammonia vapor needs to be cooled to 90 F by the condenser. If it gets cooled less than that then the cycle still works but is less efficient. To get more heat removed from inside the refrigerator in hot weather, move as much heat away from the condenser fins as you can either by adding a fan or fans you can switch on when needed or by optimizing the air flow path.

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Old 10-05-2015, 11:13 PM   #7
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Good diagram. Now to postulate further, IF the outside air temp is higher than the 90' needed for best efficiency and the condenser can't get that cool it would follow that anytime the ambient temp is that high or higher the cooling inside the box will suffer and the temps in there will rise a certain amount.
I can't see any other way that it will operate.
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