Another water heater problem

[mystere900]

We have a Atwood GC10A-4E 10 gallon electronic ignition water heater on our Expedition. Lately, when I hit the on switch, the flame starts up for 5 seconds or so then shuts down. It repeats this on off cycle a couple times before the fault light comes on then the switch has to be turned off and back on. Some times I have to go through this process a couple times before it stays lit. Anybody got an idea why this is happening?

[mystere900]

We have a Atwood GC10A-4E 10 gallon electronic ignition water heater on our Expedition. Lately, when I hit the on switch, the flame starts up for 5 seconds or so then shuts down. It repeats this on off cycle a couple times before the fault light comes on then the switch has to be turned off and back on. Some times I have to go through this process a couple times before it stays lit. Anybody got an idea why this is happening?

["007"]

Roger, you could have carbon build up on ignition probe and heat sensor next to it. They both will be by the gas tube outlet. Just clean and you should be good to go. Do not bend them just clean.

[NLOVNIT]

Thanks, Rogers, for asking & answering. Our propane ignition was starting to do this at the end of last season, too. In the rush to get winterized & perishables emptied out of the coach before the weather turned cold, we didn't get around to investigating why ours was acting up. Now we'll know where to start to fix ours when the weather breaks in the spring.

The wealth of knowledge & the help shared on this site never ceases to amaze me. We've got the best members out there!!

L-

[mystere900]

What do you recomend to clean these items? Cloth wheel on a Dremel, electric contact cleaner or something else?

["007"]

Just clean with a cloth do not want to disturb the gap of igniter. A contact cleaner may also be use if real dirty.

[mystere900]

Alright! Thanks 007. Cleaned the combination thermocouple igniter probe and that seems to have corrected the start stop problem. At the same time I realigned the probes into the flame better and cleaned where the bracket attachés to the sheet metal. Also adjusted the combustion air for a quiet blue flame, about 1/4 open as Atwood recommends. Thought all was good until I closed the door. About 5 to 10 seconds after closing the door the roaring flame noise returns and looking through the sight glass, the flame turns more orange. Is it possible some of the hot exhaust gasses are being pulled down into the combustion air causing the mixture to go rich? I say this because of the time delay after closing the door.

[Jack Myton]

When you closed the heater compartment door you simply affected the flow of oxygen. Readjust the air flow by trial and error viewing through the small window in the door.

[jfb]

A problem that I have experienced with my Atwood is that the orfice in the brass thingy that feeds propane into the burner system plugs up. I've used a piece of soft wire to kind of ream it out, Does help!

["007"]

MORE AIR NEEDED Some people have had to add a vent opening in there door for more air for combustion. Others have trimmed the side of door near gas burner and found that helped.

[mystere900]

Thanks to everyone for the responses. I agree that there is change of air flow to the combustion chamber when the door is closed. Adjusting the air controller from one extreme to the other has no affect on the flame and noise when the door is closed. I also agree that adding a vent to the door would probably fix the problem but to make it look good would require custom paint work adding cost to the fix. What bugs me is I don't think Atwood would have designed it to operate like this. Because the intake and exhaust use the same door vent, I'm wondering if the sheet metal baffling needs to be adjusted in some way allowing a better intake air flow.

[Jack Myton]

You should be able to increase the air flow, slightly, by carefully bending the lip around the outside of the door. The aluminum door fits rather tightly against the frame and I found that a careful bending of the very edge made it fit a bit looser, or is that a 'bit more loosely'. Even bending a few of the baffles on the aluminum vent with some finesse could increase the air flow enough to get a better flame. With the right pliers, with a wide flat pinch area works best with least chance of an unsightly error. I assume that new aluminum vent grills are available.....

[mystere900]

Thanks Jack, sounds reasonable to me. I have pliers with vinyl jaw covers that might work.

By the way, how do you like the REV LE? We've been thinking about upgrading to the bath and a half model if we go full time.

[Jack Myton]

The Rev LE is a great coach, built by American Coach, and marketed and priced by Fleetwood. Same chassis and basics as the Eagle but much more reasonable. Love the 40E with bath and a half. I moderate the Rev Owners group and the coach has a wonderful 'following'.