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Old 11-11-2018, 02:42 PM   #1
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Atwood 10 gal HW heater tank needs replacing

#93953 tank for a Atwood GC10A-3E heater. Does anyone have a good company to order one from? I found one at this website, but am looking for a company some one has used before and is satisfied with.
Thanks for your suggestions!


Brad


http://https://www.makariosrv.com/at...c10a-3e-93953/
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:05 PM   #2
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Your Link didn't take me to Makarois RV

Had to use this link

https://www.makariosrv.com/atwood-re...c10a-3e-93953/




Mararois RV has been around for many years...reputable company


Cheaper....
Atwood Water Heater 93953 Replacement 10 Gallon Tank Kit - Hardware - Parts & Accessories - RV Water Heaters - RV Appliances


And cheaper ...
https://www.adventurerv.net/atwood-w...3-p-29463.html




All replacements should come with insulation jacket, ring/gasket set and 120V Set of T-tstat/ECO and electric element....so call verify kit includes those items


Shipping costs need to be figured into pricing also.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:46 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info. We are tearing up carpeting and drying out now. Not fun when you are full timing. But doable.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:00 PM   #4
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Make sure on your replacement tank that the tube ends for the propane flame are perfectly round, otherwise the rings will not go on (easily).
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Old 11-14-2018, 04:29 PM   #5
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Just curious as to why you are replacing instead of fixing?
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
Just curious as to why you are replacing instead of fixing?

It's 16 years old and leaking. I m 66 years old and also leak! DW is thinking of ordering a Brad replacement,too!




Actually, I m not replacing the whole heater, just the tank. All the electronics and the propane burner are being reused.
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:09 PM   #7
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Just a FYI to anyone that may go thru what I am. Our motorhome is a 2002 model. The water heater plumbing, which includes a hot water bypass valve on ours, has no union to take it apart. I had to break a 1/2" plastic "T" to get it apart. Then, I couldn't find any plastic plumbing stuff at Home Depot or Lowes, so I went with galvanized. And a 1/2" union.
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Old 11-14-2018, 08:04 PM   #8
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Take some photos to document your findings so we can see what you have.
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Just a FYI to anyone that may go thru what I am. Our motorhome is a 2002 model. The water heater plumbing, which includes a hot water bypass valve on ours, has no union to take it apart. I had to break a 1/2" plastic "T" to get it apart. Then, I couldn't find any plastic plumbing stuff at Home Depot or Lowes, so I went with galvanized. And a 1/2" union.

Unless you are using a Galvanic coupler, I would ditch the Galvanized fittings if they are in contact with the Atwood Aluminum tank. The Galvanized fittings will cause galvanic corrosion and your nice new tank will be toast. The only time I have ever heard of the Atwood tanks leaking is when the owners replace the plastic drain plug with a metal plug or "Hot Rod" electric conversion heater. Over the years, the tank is slowly rotted away and you eventually have the problem leaks.
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Old 11-15-2018, 09:57 AM   #10
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Unless you are using a Galvanic coupler, I would ditch the Galvanized fittings if they are in contact with the Atwood Aluminum tank. The Galvanized fittings will cause galvanic corrosion and your nice new tank will be toast. The only time I have ever heard of the Atwood tanks leaking is when the owners replace the plastic drain plug with a metal plug or "Hot Rod" electric conversion heater. Over the years, the tank is slowly rotted away and you eventually have the problem leaks.
Will brass fittings at the connections to the tank be alright and then use galvanized after that?
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:10 AM   #11
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There was around a half a gallon left in the old water heater. Here is a picture of what came out. It was a very slimy mess, which is a good reminder for us to drain/rinse our water heaters periodically! It was like a watery mud!
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Old 11-16-2018, 01:46 PM   #12
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After (I don't want to admit how) many, many trips to the plumbing supply, I am successful with a functioning water heater once again. I went with 1/2 inch PVC instead of brass for a substantial cost savings. The only trouble, other than the pvc hassle, was the ECO cut off switch staying put. Both switches didn't want to stay underneath the tabs. I m going to order new ones.



If you can get the plumbing off of the back without damaging it like I did, it a easy exchange. There were only around 6 screws holding all of the components in on the front, like the burner and exhaust system. There were, of course, about 24 screws holding the unit's face to the side of the RV.



DW just got out of the shower. She is tickled, which means I am also.
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Old 11-16-2018, 02:09 PM   #13
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Brass would also be a problem, Aluminum is lower on the Galvanic Scale than Brass or Galvanized Metals. You did right by using the plastic and it should last a long time. I have heard of people draining their water heaters and removing the T&P Safety valve and filling the unit up with vinegar, reinstalling the safety valve and fire up the unit to de-lime if the crud on the bottom can't be flushed out with a flush wand. So far I have not had to do this as my annual draining and soft water usage has kept the lime to the minimum. I wish I had a 10 gallon heater in my coach. Six is just cutting it to close for showers.
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Old 11-16-2018, 03:07 PM   #14
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Under 'normal' conditions that PVC pipe/elbows should be OK.......
Problem is it is just barely heat/temp rated for how hot the water COULD get

Normal t-stat....140*F
ECO/Hi temp t-stat...180*F
T&P Relief Valve....210*F/150 psi



IIRC PVC pressure ratings are at 73*F and 140*F is maximum temp rating which derates pressure rating (multiply pressure rating by .22)


That is why Atwood uses a NYLON drain plug
RV Plumbing is PEX
200F at 80 psi
180F at 100 psi
74F at 160 psi


Just concerned with the use of that PVC on the HOT water heater
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