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Question Atwood 10 Gal. water heater ?
Old 05-22-2011, 11:56 AM   #1
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Hi all, I have a 2007, 33V suncruiser with an Atwood 10 gal water heater. I have full propane tank and connected to 50amp in campground. So far so good.

Yesterday when I turned on the water heater I heard it click on a couple of times but paid no attention to it because I was also using the electric water heater and had sufficient hot water to take a shower.

Today when I turned it back on it clicked 3 times and didn't go on. I tried it again with the same results and the pilot out light came on.

While I was waiting for the pilot out light to turn off I cleaned all the contacts I could and released the water pressure valve emptying out all the water. Let it sit for awhile then tried again. Like magic it started right up and heated the water to temp then turned off.

My question is what did I do and what should I look for if it happens again. Luck can only take you so far then craps.

My operator manual is almost useless because of the 2 models it shows (White Rodgers & Robert Shaw) neither looks even close to what I have. Is there another schematic I could look for. I already have the online manuals.

Any comments will be greatly appreciated. My knowledge of water heaters is nil.
Thanks
Tom

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Old 05-22-2011, 07:06 PM   #2
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The Robert Shaw and White Rogers pertains to the pilot models, you probably have electronic ignition. The only schematic in mine is for the electronic ignition. I think it was coincidence and nothing you did. Are you low on propane? May have air in the line.

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Old 05-22-2011, 08:54 PM   #3
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I had a similar problem my last time out. I pulled the connectors off the control board in the heater and took a pencil eraser and cleaned them and everything worked.
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:58 PM   #4
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We had similar problems last year. Thorough cleaning of all push on electrical connections solved it for us. That seems to be a common problem.
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Old 05-23-2011, 02:00 PM   #5
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There are times when the P/T valve will drip a bit onto the connections and cause a failure. Keeping electrical connections as clean as possible goes a long way in preventing problems.
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Old 05-23-2011, 03:15 PM   #6
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There are times when the P/T valve will drip a bit onto the connections and cause a failure. Keeping electrical connections as clean as possible goes a long way in preventing problems.
Keeping all electrical connections clean is critical for Atwood WH's.

Here's a pic of my Atwood which shows all connections for the gas portion of the heater. Removing and restalling each connector does wonders for curing ignition problems. I'm in the process of repairng the tank as some previous, owner repairs failed.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/...af87ebee_b.jpg
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Old 05-23-2011, 03:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FleetMan View Post
We had similar problems last year. Thorough cleaning of all push on electrical connections solved it for us. That seems to be a common problem.

x4
almost every time i have issues with ours, there has been corrosion on the contacts

this includes where the contact thermo sensors are located behind the rubber mat stuff, twist em every now and again. Spray a small bit of wd40 or similar behind them to make sure the corrosion is not interfering

atwood makes a thermo repair kit its about 15 dollars, good insurance to have with you.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:10 PM   #8
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Ditto here, dirty contacts. After I cleaned I coated around the connectors with dielectric grease.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:21 AM   #9
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Thanks guys. It's been working without problems since I did the cleaning.

Thanks Bob for the pic. It is identical to mine. I'm also going to change some of the corroded looking contacts.

Tom
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:51 PM   #10
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Thanks guys. It's been working without problems since I did the cleaning.

Thanks Bob for the pic. It is identical to mine. I'm also going to change some of the corroded looking contacts.

Tom
Tom:

Here's two pic of the rear of your/my WH. You can see the electric heating element and both the thermostat and ECO with re-set button. Had to hit the re-set button on one occasion and had no problems after that. The previous owner allowed the heater tank to freeze and it was welded. Had a hair-line crack which I just TIG Welded.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3141/...d4d5103f_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5266/...d2a862da_b.jpg
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Atwood Heater
Old 05-24-2011, 06:33 PM   #11
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Bob 109, I notice that the piece of tubing with the air openings in it for adjusting the flame (for lack of a better name) is quite clean. Mine is all corroded looking through out the whole tubing including the bend into the tank. It works fine and I have had to clean all of the contacts last year. Am I pushing the envelople by not changing that crappy looking area or is this an ok look?
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:23 PM   #12
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Bob 109, I notice that the piece of tubing with the air openings in it for adjusting the flame (for lack of a better name) is quite clean. Mine is all corroded looking through out the whole tubing including the bend into the tank. It works fine and I have had to clean all of the contacts last year. Am I pushing the envelople by not changing that crappy looking area or is this an ok look?
Joe:

On occasion, I take a small wire brush and clean/buff the main burner tubing etc. It's made of aluminum and gets a coating of aluminum oxide on it which makes it look crappy but doesn't hurt it's function/operation.
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:40 AM   #13
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I had a similar problem my last time out. I pulled the connectors off the control board in the heater and took a pencil eraser and cleaned them and everything worked.
I have the same WH and I can't figure out which connectors you are referring to.

Jeff
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:16 PM   #14
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I have the same WH and I can't figure out which connectors you are referring to.

Jeff
Here's a pic of the ECO and Thermostat wiring on the front of the Atwood 10 Gal. heater. Remove each wire and clean the male spade connectors and then push the female spade connector onto the male spade connector several times. This will ensure you have good connections. Do the same for the control board. Do each connector seperately so you don't mix up the wires

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5306/...14ac0a39_b.jpg

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