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Old 09-24-2017, 01:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtarwater View Post
10 gal Atwood water heater. Spark probe does not spark. I can light it when it cycles with a stick lighter but it only started lit for about 3 seconds then valve solenoid shuts off coarse turning it off. Flu if clean. 12 volt to all terminals on harness. Any suggestions? I'm thinking circuit board.
Use the wiring diagram...trace 12V DC ...find where it is and where it isn't
FIX where it isn't.
Remember...12V DC does NOT flow thru high resistance ....corroded/dirty/loose connections

Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterbob View Post
My Atwood water heater started acting up just yesterday runs fine on gas but will not run on electric
Model number GCH10A-4E
Have checked fuses and cleaned all connections I suspect it is the circuit board.
As advice as I gave to ORIGINAL POSTER.
Follow DC...if good then Follow AC
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Old 09-24-2017, 01:35 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 46490 View Post
I just checked the white and black wires to the heating element - no voltage. I found that the white wire was burnt through at the wire splice. What could of caused this? Also the dc voltage was good. So do I just get the proper gauge wire and splice it in. Do I need a fuse-able link? What could of caused the burnt wire?
Howdy,
What wire splice??

AC wiring SHOULD have been from Circuit breaker directly 'TO' element and from element directly 'TO' AC panel common terminals.

Splice

Anyway.........burnt wire----loose connection
Remove any burnt wire/insulation, clean up the wire ends
Twist ends together, wire nut them then wrap with electrical tape so connection does not come loose again
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:01 PM   #17
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Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Howdy,
What wire splice??

AC wiring SHOULD have been from Circuit breaker directly 'TO' element and from element directly 'TO' AC panel common terminals.

Splice

Anyway.........burnt wire----loose connection
Remove any burnt wire/insulation, clean up the wire ends
Twist ends together, wire nut them then wrap with electrical tape so connection does not come loose again
I replaced the wire and still don't have any ac to the element. Replaced the regulator? The one with a yellow, green an 2 black wires - still no ac. Could it be the 20 amp circuit breaker for the water heater. The electrical on off switch for the water heater turns off and on when i turn it off and on.
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Old 09-25-2017, 01:34 PM   #18
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I replaced the wire and still don't have any ac to the element. Replaced the regulator? The one with a yellow, green an 2 black wires - still no ac. Could it be the 20 amp circuit breaker for the water heater. The electrical on off switch for the water heater turns off and on when i turn it off and on.
Turn that CB OFF ...then turn it back ON
Could have tripped when wire burnt

Check that you have AC thru that CB.
Red probe on CB line side screw and Black probe on Common wire bus
With CB closed S/B 120V AC

With CB reset, water temp cold enough to call for heating (below 110*F for t-stat to close) and electric switch ON.......test for AC at element using voltmeter. S/B 120V AC when you place red/black probes on Black/White wire terminals.

No AC thru element.....
Did you check continuity of element?
Switch OFF
Continuity Check between the Black wire/White wire terminals......no continuity Bad element
Continuity Check between White wire terminal and FLANGE of element....if you have continuity element is shorted


Regulator???

Do you mean 'DC Relay' that is with element?

DC Voltage causes realy to close........allows AC Voltge on Black wire to flow to element
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:02 AM   #19
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No hot water

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Turn that CB OFF ...then turn it back ON
Could have tripped when wire burnt

Check that you have AC thru that CB.
Red probe on CB line side screw and Black probe on Common wire bus
With CB closed S/B 120V AC

With CB reset, water temp cold enough to call for heating (below 110*F for t-stat to close) and electric switch ON.......test for AC at element using voltmeter. S/B 120V AC when you place red/black probes on Black/White wire terminals.

No AC thru element.....
Did you check continuity of element?
Switch OFF
Continuity Check between the Black wire/White wire terminals......no continuity Bad element
Continuity Check between White wire terminal and FLANGE of element....if you have continuity element is shorted


Regulator???

Do you mean 'DC Relay' that is with element?

DC Voltage causes realy to close........allows AC Voltge on Black wire to flow to element

The relay clicks when the electric wh button is pushed - left it on over night and still no hot water - could it be the thermostat, i did replace them. Do they need to be held tight to the tank - I could tape them done, but then the springs would be depressed. I am out of ideas - the ac circuit has ac power, the dc side has power and the relay is clicking on and off when the wh button is turned on.
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:23 PM   #20
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The relay clicks when the electric wh button is pushed - left it on over night and still no hot water - could it be the thermostat, i did replace them. Do they need to be held tight to the tank - I could tape them done, but then the springs would be depressed. I am out of ideas - the ac circuit has ac power, the dc side has power and the relay is clicking on and off when the wh button is turned on.
Relay clicking on/off.......DC circuit is functioning
IF DC did not go thru the t-stat/ECO the yellow wire to Relay would NOT get DC and relay would NOT click.

Also IF t-stat wasn't already tight against tank wall then heating would continue until water got REALLY hot due to lack of temp sensing by t-stat.

Besides.......same t-stat/ECO for propane and you stated IT works/heats water.
T-stat and ECO springs should be compressed.....plastic washer compresses them and are held down under the three metal tabs..

AC is simple circuit..
120V AC from Circuit breaker to AC side of relay on Black wire
Relay closes..AC then goes to element on Black wire
Thru element (causing it to heat up) and back to 120V AC panel Common on White wire

Did you ever do continuity tests on element? Switch OFF
Continuity good thru element (black to white)
No continuity on White to Flange

And Voltage test? Switch ON
120V AC at Black to White

IF good continuity and voltage thru element then it heats water



Are you sure water heater valving is set correctly?
Water gets hot in tank but only warm water from faucet due to cold water dilution.....
OR do you get HOT water from faucet when using propane but Not when using electric??
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:46 PM   #21
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Glad to hear you found a broken AC wire and now have HOT water.

WHOO-HOO!

HOT good......hehehe
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:42 AM   #22
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I have been following this thread close, because I have the same problem with my Atwood 10 gal.
I have cleaned connections and replaced circuit board with new. Still have same problem so got into the back of water heater through closet which you have to be a contortionist (spell) . I found that the black hot wire going into the relay was burnt off and appears the relay is also burnt.
What would cause this ? Don't no how I can in there to replace without removing heater. Runs good on gas so not in a hurry to replace.
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Old 10-02-2017, 12:20 PM   #23
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I have been following this thread close, because I have the same problem with my Atwood 10 gal.
I have cleaned connections and replaced circuit board with new. Still have same problem so got into the back of water heater through closet which you have to be a contortionist (spell) . I found that the black hot wire going into the relay was burnt off and appears the relay is also burnt.
What would cause this ? Don't no how I can in there to replace without removing heater. Runs good on gas so not in a hurry to replace.
WHY.....
Loose connection
HOW....
Poor initial installation/road vibration----due to initial poor installation
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:03 PM   #24
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I just worry about something being shorted out, and if I purchase a new relay and burns that one up also.
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Old 10-09-2017, 10:04 AM   #25
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Replaced the relay and everything seems to be working good so far hopefully it continues and doesn't burn the wire off again
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:02 AM   #26
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I replaced the elec connections and taped them as well, I also didn't squeeze all the wires back into the black that holds the relay in place - what a pain to get to!!
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